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3-legged-stool-woodworking-plans-view Woodworkiny me. One of the blocks matching stretcher height can be positioned at the rear of the drill to visually assist with keeping the drill level as each tenon hole is drilled while visually aligning the drill between the legs as the tenon mortise is drilled. After the leg tenon is sized, 3 legged stool woodworking plans view remaining marked intervals along the leg 3 legged stool woodworking plans view turned to the proper diameters and the waste between these areas is removed to complete the rough tapered legs. I also scooped out the seat, first on the lathe, then with a carving gouge. It is perfectly acceptable to cut your seat outline with a band saw and finish the shaping with alternative tool choices.

Create a short cut in a scrap block to use in sizing the filler strips that will be added between the seat sections. Press the joint edges together to check the fit, but DO NOT sand or otherwise alter the faces of the joints created with your bandsawn cuts.

Cover all mating surfaces with glue and clamp the seat blank together for 24 hours. Creating the filler strip that replaces the width of the saw kerf. Checking the filler strip thickness by using a scrap of wood with a bandsawn kerf. Seat sections and filler strip glued together. The seat blank is cut out slightly oversize and mounted to the lathe faceplate with four screws.

Proper mounting protocol is necessary, so make sure the seat blank is securely mounted to the faceplate. Details of seat blank rear profile. Cutting seat blank to approximate finished dimension. The outer diameter is trued, the bottom angle cut, and the outer edges rounded before forming the gently contoured Free Outdoor Christmas Decorations Woodworking Plans Github seat top surface.

The seat blank is sanded to remove all of the remaining lathe marks using a grit disk on a 5" random orbit sander. Straightedge shows top contour.

Sanding seat top contour, easier to do after removing from lathe! Don't despair if your lathe capacity isn't large enough to turn the seat diameter. It is perfectly acceptable to cut your seat outline with a band saw and finish the shaping with alternative tool choices. Band sawing the seat profile is also a good option if you would prefer to make an alternative seat shape such as a large triangle.

There are various ways of drilling the leg tenon mortise holes, but I prefer using a simple wooden guide clamped to the top of the seat to align and hold the bit at the proper 14 degree angle to create the proper splay for the legs.

The guide has a U-shaped wood saddle screwed over the angled end that keeps the bit aligned both side to side and at the correct 14 degree angle. I prefer drilling from the top as the hole created by the Forstner bit will have sharp edges with no visible tear-out if the bit is held firmly by the alignment jig. A bit of scrap wood can be clamped against the bottom exit area to minimize the chance for tear-out as the bit exits the seat bottom. Various jigs as detailed on construction drawing.

Drilling the leg tenons with the Forstner guide. Layout of the two rear leg tenon locations. Legs Basic cylinders are lathe turned to make the leg blanks and the desired dimensions are marked along the length to create three uniformly shaped legs.

Standard tenon sizing techniques can be used to create the 1" tenon but I use the 'sharpened wrench tenon sizing tool" widely popularized in YouTube videos to quickly form a close to ideal diameter for tenons.

The Woodworking Plans Bookcase Quotes tool is eased over the slightly oversized tenon diameter while the longer bottom portion of the wrench opening is kept pressed up against the bottom of the turning. This sounds tricky, but it's actually quite easy, with the cutting action of the top of the wrench jaw stopping instantly as the wrench jaw opening width is reached and the wrench slips over the sized tenon.

I was dubious about how well these would work until I invested the 8 dollars for the 1" wrench and tried it for myself. The tenon sizer turns the otherwise tedious work of accurately sizing tenons into a quick and easy process.

I won't be using other methods of sizing tenons anytime in the near future! Legs marked to indicated diameter measurement locations from drawing.

Using a 'sharpened one inch wrench' tenon sizing tool. Sizing tenons in this manner will get you very close, but it is still necessary to fine tune the tenon diameter. I use a simple gage made by boring a hole in a hardwood scrap with the Forstner bit and cutting it exactly in half. Sand the tenon a bit, stop the lathe and check the fit.

The test gage will mate with the tenon perfectly when it is sized correctly. After the leg tenon is sized, the remaining marked intervals along the leg are turned to the proper diameters and the waste between these areas is removed to complete the rough tapered legs. True up the surface profiles and sand them to create a finished leg. When you're satisfied with the leg you can remove it from the lathe and trim the excess length where the drive spur and live center were used.

Leave the excess top tenon length; it will be trimmed when fitting the tenon to the leg mortise in the seat. Checking tenon size with a gage made from scrap drilled with a 1" Forstner bit.

The legs are now fitted to the leg tenon Woodworking Plans Kitchen Stools 5th mortise holes previously drilled in the seat. The legs are removed and the excess tenon length trimmed away with the band saw. A line is drawn across the top of the leg tenons at 90 degrees to the tenon end grain to indicate the location of the leg tenon wedge. Rotate the front leg so the wedge will exert pressure in the same direction as the wood grain of the top to prevent any chance of the wedge splitting the seat top when it is driven in.

The remaining two legs are turned so the wedges point to the center of the seat. Purely an aesthetic decision, the wedges could also be oriented in the same direction as the front leg wedge, if desired.

Do mark each leg so it can quickly be replaced into the same hole and oriented in the same way. You don't want to try and figure out how you want the tenon wedge positioned after the glue has been applied and it is inserted in the seat hole. Moving joints around can quickly become difficult after glue-up has begun. Cut the leg tenon wedge slots as a last detail before adding the legs to the seat. A scrap of 2 x 4 is drilled to hold the leg tenon while cutting a slot for a wooden wedge.

The slot width isn't critical; the blade you have installed on your table saw will do fine. Cutting the tenon wedge slot with a simple jig and table saw blade. Contrasting wood wedges are cut to match the tenon hole diameter. The strip is sanded to create a long taper length that matches the wedge slot depth, the wedge is cut to length, and the procedure is repeated two more times so you have three wedges ready to go. Painter's masking tape is applied to all surfaces that might have the possibility of excess glue contaminating the wood surfaces.

A bit of preparation saves a LOT of surface prep work later. Cover the mating surfaces with glue, and insert the legs in the seat holes, making sure the wedge slots are aligned correctly, driving in the wedges to tighten the joint.

Let the glued tenons dry 24 hours before doing any further work on them. Gluing leg tenons into seat and locking with tapered wood wedges. The tenons and wedges are carefully brought down close to the seat surface with a grit sanding disk in a 4" right angle grinder.

Use a light touch, a new sanding disk, and short intervals of sanding so as not to burn the end grain Hutch Plans Woodworking Free Watch of the tenon. The tape does double duty here, acting as an aid against getting overzealous when bringing the tenon end down flush with the seat top. A 5" random orbit sander with a grit disk performs the final leveling nicely after the tape has been removed. Quick and light cuts with a grit disk levels tenon end to seat surfaces. Final leveling is done with a 5" random orbit sander fitted with a grit disc.

Stretchers With the legs now solidly glued in position we'll make up the stretchers that run between the three legs. Three sets of blocks are cut to transfer the desired stretcher heights to the correct location on the legs as referenced from floor level. Overall this was a fun piece to make and challenging. More pictures of the final piece can be seen here. Each leg was turned on the lathe, after cutting a tenon into the end of each leg to go into the top, as well as a mortise for the stretcher connection.

I used a Japanese hand plane to clean up the surface after turning. I also scooped out the seat, first on the lathe, then with a carving gouge.

I eventually sanded this off though… it was too busy. You can also see the stretchers assembled in this photo with tenons cut on the ends.

The shoulders of the joints were scribed to fit each leg. I also shaped and carved the edge of the seat on the lathe.

Have you gone through that process for any of your work? Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. Email Address.

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