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woodworking-pen-zoom The authorities have promised a crackdown in Patpong, that woodworking pen zoom of street hawkers, raucous bars, and raunchy sex clubs, though it remains one of Thailand's biggest, and oddest, sightseeing attractions. Greyhound has a clothing store here, as does Habitat and the trendy Japanese Loft. Keeping you connected wherever you are. Zubin Shroff. Tap the pencil icon to hide annotation tools. Legal Policies About Ads.

Over the past decade, the Sukhothai's graceful low-slung buildings, gardens, and lotus pools have been hemmed in by skyscrapers; its restaurant, Celadon, considered by many the best in town, has doubled in size. But it is still a fabulous place, more urban resort than hotel. The staff is good-looking, charming, and energetic. The public spaces and guest rooms all shimmer in Thai silk.

My desk has a flat-screen computer with a high-speed Internet connection; the bathroom is big enough to get lost in. All the Sukhothai lacks is the riverside location of its main rivals for the carriage trade: the Peninsula, which opened four years ago, and the grande dame Oriental across the river.

Thais call their capital Krung Thep, or "City of Angels," and like Los Angeles, it's sprawling, smoggy, and steamy—temperatures average in the low 90's from March to May the world's hottest city, according to the World Meteorological Organization. Unlike L. When I first came here, I spent almost all my time on or near the river. This trip, though, I'm always on the Skytrain, heading north from the river to either Siam Square or Sukhumvit, Bangkok's two most happening neighborhoods, for dining, shopping, and gawking.

And what a change I find. Fifteen years ago, Bangkok fashion was all rip-off American; in the 's, it was counterfeit Japanese. Now Thai designers are drawing inspiration from their own cultural heritage.

Even the old-guard Jim Thompson silk company, best known for its high-quality, conservative neckties and scarves, has introduced a collection of bold, contemporary furniture and accessories in traditional materials—such as silk and teak—by the London-based Thai designer Ou Baholyodhin. Many creative enterprises are collaborations between Thais and expats, who bring an outsider's appreciation for the culture. A very good place to make the adjustment is the area around Siam Square, which is home to several department stores and shopping centers, including Siam Center and Siam Discovery Center.

Both are crammed with interesting stores representing local and international designers, and with young shoppers scoping them out. Greyhound has a clothing store here, as does Habitat and the trendy Japanese Loft. There are also a number of hotels in the neighborhood, notably the Regent Bangkok, which has been going through a reincarnation of its own.

New York-based Tony Chi has designed three gorgeous restaurants for it: Madison, a Manhattan-style steak house; Shintaro, a sushi bar; and Biscotti, where chef Giovanni Speciale prepares wood-fired pizza, pastas, and seafood in a vast open kitchen, surrounded on three sides by seating for diners.

The kitchen, where I counted eight cooks on one night, is pure theater, and the food, based on local produce, is sparklingly fresh.

I enjoyed it so much that I returned for lunch the next day. Tony Chi, who was born in China and for the last four years has visited Bangkok monthly, seems to have tapped into the city's cosmopolitan yearnings. Biscotti is worldly, yet encourages a communal conviviality—a combination rarely found in hotel restaurants.

Locals decked out in everything from jeans to silky dresses and Armani suits fill it every night. The other neighborhood that captures my attention is Sukhumvit, a series of leafy, quiet lanes off a long stretch of busy Sukhumvit Road. The area, which still has plenty of century-old wooden houses, has long been popular with foreigners as a place to both live and play.

I've been coming to Sukhumvit for years to shop at Rasi Sayam, probably Bangkok's best source for traditional Thai handicrafts. There are great restaurants out here, too; after dinner, everyone heads to Q Bar, an offshoot of the famous Saigon celeb hangout that closed a few years ago. But now, instead of hiring a taxi to get there—a ride that could take anywhere from 20 minutes to an hour—you can make a daily pilgrimage using the Skytrain, which has eight stops along Sukhumvit Road.

An area of rice paddies only 50 years ago, Sukhumvit is now home to the Emporium, the city's newest and most upscale shopping plaza Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Gucci, and the like. The restaurant Agalico, whose owner is reputed to be a direct descendant of King Rama V, is where ladies who lunch go for afternoon tea. Sukhumvit has also become a boom area for small, chic day spas such as Pirom, Palm Herbal, and Being, all of which offer treatments with a Thai twist, like hot-oil papaya body wraps and a Thai-pepper body scrub.

Day spas, nightclubs, boutiques, restaurants. What happened to the recession? To hear it from taxi drivers and shopkeepers, business is bad, money tight. Khun Puchong, a waiter at the Sukhothai with a college degree in business, used to work at a bank; now, he says, he's lucky to have a job at all. They kept their purses closed for a few years, but now they're back in action. Kuppa has its own coffee roaster, is strictly non-smoking an almost unimaginable concept in Asia , and serves food that runs the global gamut, from a baguette sandwich of Virginia ham and Monterey Jack to Thai grilled chicken to pizza with sausage, roasted peppers, and onion jam.

It's the kind of place I could imagine turning into my official hangout if I moved to Bangkok. And Kuppa is filled with Thais. My own observations, plus hard facts, back up Tom's theory. Economists say that a lot of the domestic growth the economy is expanding again is due to domestic spending, and credit card usage is high.

The expats do their part as well. When we're finished with lunch, Tom leaves a generous tip on the table—an unusual gesture in Thailand. The last night of my visit is Loi Krathong, the annual full moon festival. In Bangkok, there are fireworks and celebrations on the river, so all the restaurants, hotels, and sightseeing boats on the Chao Phraya are booked up far in advance.

Luckily, Gahn Chaiprasit, a commercial film director I know, invites me to join him on a boat his company has chartered for the evening. Late that afternoon, a huge rainstorm floods the streets and brings traffic to a standstill.

The doorman at the Sukhothai hails me a cab, but the driver refuses to take me to the Ratchawong Pier, where the boat is docked. Ridiculous, he declares: after this downpour, and on Loi Krathong no less, it will take at least an hour. I persist, the price goes up, and off we go. The driver was right—traffic is horrendous—and he grumbles the whole way. Bangkok may have changed for the better, but bad weather, traffic jams, and crabby cabdrivers are woes it still shares with big cities everywhere.

It turns out everyone else is late too, which means I am on time. Gahn's company, Big Blue, is impressively egalitarian, and everyone, from directors and producers to drivers and maids, climbs aboard.

The group is international: there's a Filipina-Australian model with a pierced tongue, and her husband, a Singaporean filmmaker; a Burmese art director based in Vietnam; a sullen teenager from Atlantic City, someone's visiting nephew, his Discman headphones shutting out the world.

Gahn introduces me to two Thais who studied at the Pratt Art Institute in New York and to a producer who comes from a Bangkok "hi-so" high society—the ones who had all those extra shirts hidden away family and has an apartment in London. The wooden boat is open on all sides, with a peaked roof. There are tables set with linens and flowers, and a lavish buffet. During Loi Krathong, Thais send tiny floats onto the river for good luck, and these elaborate arrangements of flowers, burning incense, and flickering candles bob all around us.

Downriver, in front of the Oriental, the fireworks begin. Music drifts across the water, hundreds of tunes, it seems, from hundreds of boats. We pass a famously hideous high-rise condo, a relic of the boom years, its base modeled on Notre Dame and its domed roof a replica of the U. Up above, the brilliant full moon illuminates Bangkok's glittery temple roofs and skyscrapers. I am sitting at the stern, my legs dangling over the side, sipping a beer.

The warm breeze carries the river's complicated brew of fragrances. I recall my first trip on the Chao Phraya, now so many years ago, and I feel myself once again falling under Bangkok's spell. The fabulous food, the gracious people, the river, the fragrances, the moonlight—none of this has gone away.

And while the city's contemporary urban ills haven't disappeared either, Bangkok's latest, most stylish incarnation makes them much easier to bear. I'm definitely coming back. Bangkok's best weather is from November through February, when the nights can be cool enough to justify a sweater. Note : The Select , Spotlight , and Save options are only available if you started the shared screen or whiteboard.

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