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Search Brand. Acme Furniture. Adore Decor. Armen Living. Baby Mod. Baby Relax. Baxton Studio. Brookside Home.

Bush Furniture. Carter's by DaVinci. Child Craft. Christopher Knight Home. CosmoLiving by Cosmopolitan. Delta Children. Dorel Living. Forever Eclectic. Hodedah Import. Hopper Studio. Inspire Q. International Concepts. Karla Dubois. Little Seeds. Made By Design. Manhattan Comfort. Million Dollar Baby Classic. Oxford Baby. Pemberly Row. Picket House Furnishings. Powell Company. Private Reserve. Project Some of these chemicals are a little concerning, even if this product is less harsh than most.

Some people have also complained of an oily, grimy scum being left behind after the product dries. Many of those same people said this scum was hard to remove without damaging the finish. Here we have a sealer that focuses a lot of its attention on environmental concerns. They have made it about as safe and non-toxic as a product of this sort can ever be.

While all sealers will provide a waterproof surface, this product takes it to another level. It is rated for flood resistance, which means that it can be left underwater for long periods without ruination. Apart from the relatively high cost of this sealer, I can see one consistent complaint. At least three reviewers have complained that this product does not cure properly and remains tacky and sticky.

Most have not reported these problems, however, which leads us to believe that this finish will have trouble hardening under some conditions. This product offers a few distinct advantages that are worth examining. First of all, the whole thing is water-based. Water-based compositions like this one are also much easier to clean up when you are finished.

The advertising for this product makes a big deal about the fact that it includes zinc. Zinc is a metal that is often used for coating steel, but it also has some useful chemical properties. By keeping out more of the sunlight, this product creates an environment where mold and mildew cannot grow. Perhaps the biggest selling point of this item is its increased longevity.

This product will normally last a year or two longer than most other products, and this is mainly due to its large amounts of protective ingredients. The manufacturers claim that they chose only the highest-quality resins for this product, and I think they are probably honest about that. I can see a few problems with this product as well. I found several negative reviews that mentioned this problem, saying that they could not tell any difference after using the product.

Because most users did not report this problem, I have to conclude that this product requires multiple coats in order to be effective. When you are forced to use multiple coats, the price per job becomes even more. This is the only marine sealer on the list, which means that it will probably offer superior protection against water.

Thus, they are held to a much higher standard in the area of waterproofing. Some marine paints are meant to be used above the waterline only, but this one seems to be fine for general marine use. This sealer is made from a natural substance called Tung oil.

Tung oil was first used in ancient China and is obtained from the nut of the Tung tree. Tung oil provides a rich shine that is second to none in terms of beauty. Thus, for jobs in which appearance is paramount, this is a fine choice indeed. Like many other marine paints, this one does not dry to a perfectly smooth finish. Its texture when dry is a little bit rough and lumpy. Because of this, it might not be the best choice for your deck.

You will have to use a buffer or some similar tool if you want a smooth finish. This one is also a little bit expensive. Because it is handmade with natural materials, we should probably expect a higher price. Still, not everyone can afford that kind of money for a sealer.

It is most widely known to protect wood against end grain checking. End grain checking is the term given to the splinters that you see at the end of wood planks that most often happens right after the wood is cut.

Keep in mind that as long as your piece of wood has some kind of end grain on it you can use this sealer. Anchorseal is the top choice for most contractors when it comes to fixing end grain checking; after applying coats, you will likely never have to worry about the splintering of that piece of wood again! To put it as simple as possible it is just a mixture of water and wax. As the sealer dries the water evaporates leaving a nice solid wax film over the end grain.

This product is almost wax-like when dried, so it is not made for sealing all kinds of projects. So Anchorseal is a great solution to protect your wood against end grain checking. This is a premium wood sealer, which means that its maker has put a little more effort into its quality.

This product earns its asking price by providing a longer lifespan than most other sealers. While most sealers will need to be re-applied every years, this one is supposed to last years. The manufacturer promises ten years for vertical surfaces and six years for horizontal ones. Still, I can find a few failings with this stuff. According to both the company and many customers, this sealer will allow the wood to turn gray over time.

While this is natural, it can result in an ugly deck. Thus, you need to add some kind of tint to this sealant unless you like the look of greyed wood.

Some people have also reported storage problems, saying that the product would separate into two layers after sitting in the can for a while. It claims to have all the same protections that we have seen on more expensive brands, like UV protection, mildew resistance, and all the other standard perks. I do like the fact that this product is specifically designed for decks among other jobs.

This product is mostly a water-based sealant, but it does contain a little bit of linseed oil. Because of this, it has a high shine to its finish.

When we take a look at various reviews, we can see one complaint that repeats itself: This product has apparently been changed from its original form. Those who have made this complaint say that the product is much more watered-down than it had previously been.

As a result, they say, the effectiveness of the product has suffered. It could be that they went too far in their desire to be eco-friendly. At the same time, you will probably have to use a lot of coats because this one is a little too thin.

If you want a flat and nonreflective surface, this is the sealer to check. In spite of its relatively high cost, this is a product that boasts a few advantages. This is a low-VOC volatile organic compound formula, which means it has very low toxicity.

Overall, this is one of the least toxic choices we have. This keeps moisture from being trapped inside, where it will surely cause rotting. I was also surprised to learn that this stuff works in a sprayer. Most products of this type are too thick for a sprayer, so this is a significant advantage.

We are told that the wood will gradually turn grey if this product is used as a stand-alone coating. This is a very specialized type of sealer, making it different from our other choices. This one is specifically designed to prevent cracking at the ends. When a piece of wood begins to split, it always starts at the end, so this product can be used to stop a problem in its infancy. Whether used as an end sealer or a general-purpose sealer, this product seems to do its job very effectively.

One of the most impressive things about this product is the fact that it gets about square feet of coverage from a quart-sized can. This makes the product an even better bargain. Being wax-based, it has some slightly different properties, which could make it problematic for beginners. This one is very different from the other sealers on my list, as it is made from soybean oil. This natural formulation makes the product a lot less toxic and a lot less stinky.

For such a specialized product, its price is actually quite low. This product has two main selling points. For another, it is said to last a lot longer. In fact, the advertising says that the finish will probably outlive you!

I am skeptical of this claim, as only time will tell if it is true. The biggest problem here is the factor of time-efficiency. This product takes days to fully dry, and some say that it can take weeks. This product is specifically formulated for use on hardwoods, especially tropical hardwoods like teak and mahogany. These woods are so expensive that you would be crazy to leave them uncoated. If your target object is made of oak or walnut, you should see excellent results as well.

There is no self-leveling feature with this product, and I can tell the difference. Obviously, these strokes will have to be buffed out which is a pain , so be a little more careful when you use this sealer. It is made for harder woods and may raise the grain of softer woods. By the time it dries, the wood has had time to absorb a lot of water, locking it inside forever as the sealant dries. The sealers listed above should give you a much better idea of what is available.

Now it is time to cover some general information about wood sealers so that you can get a better idea of what you need. Like most other sealer products, wood sealers work through penetration. When you apply the product to your surface, it soaks into the wood while still a liquid. Thus, when it hardens, it hardens , fills and reinforces the surface of the wood. Depending on the porosity of your wood and the consistency of your sealer, the penetration should be pretty good.

Stains are meant to color the wood while sealers are meant to provide moisture protection. Sealers are also distinct from varnishes , which only provide a water-resistant coating. Like most products of this type, wood sealers are available in water-based or oil-based options. Water-based products seem to be the most popular, and there are several reasons for this fact. First of all, water-based products tend to have less odor and less toxicity.

We have already seen some alternative-formulation products, and we can see that most of them are water-based. A water-based finish will be a little bit harder, but it can sometimes give a cloudy finish that changes the color of the wood and obscures its natural grain.

Some say the best thing about water-based finishes is their quick drying time. Oil-based sealer products are the option for people who are a little more concerned with appearances. Oil-based finishes bring out the grain of the wood by darkening it and providing a high level of shine.

When you see wood that is so shiny that it reflects the sunlight, you are probably looking at an oil-based finish. As you might guess from the title, this article is focused on sealers that are intended for outdoor use.

Obviously, these have to be a little bit tougher than the others. They will have to tolerate all sorts of weather, and that warrants a change in the way you choose your sealer product.

Always make sure you get an outdoor sealer that offers strong UV protection. Some people say that the UV radiation breaks down the finish at the molecular level, but this is false. UV radiation degrades paint and finishes by drying out the resin component. You should also look for something that is a little more eco-friendly.

You will probably be using this product outdoors, and it is almost inevitable that you will spill a drop or two. If nothing else, there will be some dripping from the end of the brush. So, unless you like having bare spots in your yard where no plants can grow, I would recommend that you either use a non-toxic sealer or seal the item indoors.

As a first step, you should check the weather forecast for your area. Most sealers require somewhere between days of curing time before their work is done.

During this time, the sealer has not yet formed a hardened layer, so it is vulnerable to moisture. So, unless you want a bunch of ugly water beads trapped in the sealer, make sure you will have days of dry weather. The second step is to prepare the working surface. This will include a thorough cleaning with soap and water, and you might also have to remove the remnants of the old finish.

If there are any other problems you want to deal with, this is the time to do so. Remember: If you put down sealer without fixing the underlying problems, those problems will be sealed in place forever.

Once your surface is clean and bare, you should lay down some plastic to protect the surrounding area from the overspray. No matter how careful you are, there will be some overspray, so make sure you cover any nearby plants that you like. Finally, you paint the sealer onto the surface with a soft brush. Sprayers are not recommended because sealers are usually too thick for them, and rollers tend to leave too many streaks and marks.

You have to be more careful about leaving streaks and marks because wood sealers will usually dry pretty fast. Wood sealer is a plastic-based product that is used to coat wooden surfaces. This protects them from moisture and creates a smooth, transparent surface.

Sealers work by penetrating the pores of the wood. When the sealant hardens, it hardens the entire surface of the wood at the same time. The usual way to apply a wood sealer is to use a brush. You should use a soft brush and spread it onto the surface, just as you would do with paint. It is recommended to use fast, brisk strokes because this stuff usually dries pretty quickly.

Before you get started, it is important that you give your deck a good washing. Any dirt or debris that might be present will prevent the sealer from adhering to that spot. In many cases, you will need to do some basic restoration before you can apply your wood sealer. If the deck is damaged in any way, a sealer will only trap the problem inside.

First, go over the surface of the deck and drive any raised nails that you might see. As wood swells and contracts, it pushes the nails upward. That creates snags and will ruin the nice flat surface that you need. It will also be necessary to remove any remnants of the previous finish. These little bits of peeling paint will keep your sealer from doing its job, so all of it has to go.

This can most easily be done using a pressure washer. If this is done, be sure to wet the grass and plants around your deck thoroughly. That way, any runoff will be diluted and made weaker. In some cases, you can find products that function as both stains and sealers. However, most people choose to use them separately. Staining and sealing are two completely different jobs that are done for completely different purposes. Stains are used to change the appearance of the deck by changing the color or at least the shade.

They do provide a nice shine, but sealers are meant to be functional rather than decorative. There are many potential answers to this question, as every situation is different. That is why I recommended many products instead of one.

You will have to choose the best product based on your needs. I would advise you to think about the scope of the job, the price of the materials, the type of wood involved.

You should also think about the average rainfall in your area, and the average humidity level as well. Nothing lasts forever, and a wood sealer is no exception. It is generally recommended that you re-seal your deck every years.

Obviously, areas with more rainwater and harsher weather conditions will cause sealers to deteriorate more quickly. I provided a good answer to this question earlier, but this is a good opportunity to mention another method that some people recommend.

Rather than applying the sealer with a brush, some people choose to use a garden sprayer as a way to deliver the sealant to its target. A garden sprayer may also get clogged from time to time, but they are a little easier to clean.

If you go with this option, I would recommend that you use a brush for the railings. The garden sprayer should work fine for the deck surface, but using it on the railings will just cause too much overspray. Wood sealer may be a fairly simple product, but its purchase should be considered carefully. You might think that no manufacturer could mess up something so simple, but it does unfortunately happen.

I hope that we have given you a good start on this process and that you will come back again for more of my advice you can always ask us a question directly, or comment below. Hi there! Which one do I really need? Hope you will glad to help me, thanks!

Hi, Sonya, good to hear from you. Yes… newbies often walk into a trap of choosing between those two different kinds of finishes because they think they are the same. Yep, sealants and stain have something in common. For example waterproofing and rot protecting properties. But those are the only similarities. Stain is a pigment the main purpose of which is coloring the wood. Yes, it also protects wood from moisture, weather, and decay but stain does it worse than sealant.

On the other hand, the main task of sealer is sealing the wood who would have thought. Sealer does sealing much better than stain. So, if your main goal is to protect your project then sealer is great for you. Wait for stain to dry and apply a sealer so that you can make sure that your work is reliably protected. Could do with some advice if possible. My project is a simple decking made from 3. Wood frame best method to preserve? Scaffold boards, burnt sanded then oiled.

So many available. Many thanks Mark. Hello Mark. There is no single answer to what is best. If there was the best product, everyone would just buy it and there would be no others. However, there is the best product for you and your project.

To find it you need to answer a few questions: What do you want to achieve as an end result? What do you want it to look like? What style do you like? Do you like the tree to look absolutely natural? This product gives great protection whilst adding a colour to the wood. As the wood is rough sawn you may find application of this oil could be patchy which will help with the old look, also after it has dries, some sanding can help take away the freshly applied look.

Another thing that is and option is to apply one colour first and then another over the top but leaving the underneath showing through in areas to give a worn effect. Test areas will be the key to getting the effect that you want. If little protection is needed for the wood, as in it is not flooring or furniture then you could also consider a coloured wax which can give a very natural look to the wood, or a water-based stain to achieve a washed out look.

If you have a look at these product and feel free to ask me any further questions, I am happy to help. I have quite a few pieces of G-Plan fresco furniture and I am tempted to restore them as they have a few scratches and slight water marks here and there.

Would you kindly give me a step by step process on how I would attempt this and which oils you would recommend? Many thanks…. If its minor repairs that you are carrying out, small scratches then you could have a look at the Morrells Wax Filler Sticks which are ideal for small scratches. And for water marks, often a medium iron over a tea towel on the stain can draw out white rings caused by water marks, do take care when doing this and try a small test first to ensure no damage is caused and this would have to be done at you own risk.

You are welcome to email me some photos to see what the damage is if you feel the above is not suitable. Our email address is wood finishes. I have just purchased a weathered acacia table. But is there a finishing oil I can use to darken it.

Please can you help me as I am so disappointed with the result. I am not sure if they are very helpful, also it was quite expensive. If the wood has no product currently on it then you can apply an oil, a clear oil will darken the wood and you can get an idea of how much by wiping a damp cloth over the surface. A clear oil may well be enough to get the look that you want. Can you tell me if the table is for internal or external use and I will be able to recommend a finishing product that you can use.

If you think the clear oil will not darken enough then you could consider a coloured oil to darken. Feel free to email me with a photo if that will help to wood finishes. Hello and thank you for this informative article! Can you recommend the best finish for wooden coasters? They have to be heat- and waterproof and finished in only two days.

We have some good products for finishing coasters and you could have a look at Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish.

It is a water repellent and heat resistant varnish. We have carried out many tests with this product for liquid resistance and durability and it stands up well against most things as long as it is applied correctly. It has a quick drying time although a full cure is around 72 hours plus depending on conditions and temperature.

Test areas are always recommended and if you have any further questions please feel free to let me know. Please help we have an old farmhouse in France with a lot of oak beams showing all very old bur untreated which oil would it be best to use Many thanks for your help. Thank you for your inquiry, we often recommend Fiddes Supreme Wax Polish for beams as they need little in the way of durability and more nourishment and many people like a natural look and feel to the beams.

If you need something a bit more durable than a wax you could have a look at a Hard Wax Oil which will soak in to the surface of the wood and is easy to keep clean and maintain over time, requiring far less top ups than a wax may do. If you have a look at the products and of course feel free to let me know if you have any further questions.

Indoor kitchen table, made from reclaimed teak, untreated, has quite a deep grain. The seller sold me a tin of Briwax to put on it, however I have read complaints that water lifts the briwax and leaves ring marks on the table.

What should I use to best protect this wooden table top? I want a finish as close as possible to the raw wood, not shiney, maybe a bit darker if necessary. But critically I want to be able to use it without fear of marking the table. I read your how to guide at the top of this page, Tung oil seems to be the best option but difficult to apply, so perhaps Teak oil would be best?

Thank you for your inquiry. I would recommend taking a look at the Osmo Extra Thin. It is a thinner oil than standard, which is ideal for dense woods such as teak that will only absorb a very small amount due to its tight grain. I would recommend a test area first to ensure that you like the finish that will be achieved, as this will darken the wood slightly.

This product is available in sample sizes also. I hope that helps and if you have any other questions please do not hesitate to get in touch. Having read lots of posts and viewed websites I am confused as to whether teak oil or danish oil is the way to go. Any light you can shed on this would be most appreciated. I should say that because of space the bench will be in all weathers all year round.

Thank you. Teak Oil or Danish Oil would both be suitable for your project and would need regular top ups through the year to maintain there protective benefits. I would not think you will need to remove yearly, more every few years to retreat. Alternatively you could have a look at Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra which is much more durable than the other two and requires maintenance coats perhaps once a year or two, rather than every six months.

And again this would not need removing, simply a clean and top up coat when you feel the wood needs it. What would you recommend for this? My father-in-law has suggested Danish oil, but I have also been recommended that Osmo would be a good bet? The Polyx Oil will give a more durable finish than a Danish Oil for sure and will require less frequent maintenance coats.

A test area should be done, first to ensure that there are no compatibility issues with the current treatment, and secondly to check that the wood is not saturated and will accept more. And also to ensure that you will like the finish to be achieved. This is not to say that the Danish Oil would not be suitable for your project because it certainly would and is a traditional treatment for wood finishing.

Wax is great for giving a beautiful finish, but not so great on the protection levels. Osmo Polyx Oil is a much more durable product that still leaves the wood looking and feeling natural. It does however require application to bare wood as it needs to penetrate into the surface and the wax will prevent or very much slow this process down.

We also have some very helpful videos on our YouTube Channel with tips about application. And if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to let me know. Hi there, I hope you can help me. I am looking to buy a large antique cherrywood dining table that has been varnished. Would it be possible to remove the varnish and oil the furniture instead? If so, can you recommend the best oil for the job? I would prefer the wood to look slightly darker too, if possible.

It would be possible for you to remove the varnish with a product, such as the Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover from Barrettine. It is a gel like substance that you can apply and leave for around 5 minutes. The varnish will bubble up to be scrapped off with a Filler Knife you should always try a test area first to ensure that it will work for your project.

Once all the varnish is removed, you can give a light sand and clean ready for application of an oil. A clear oil such as Holzol Top Oil is a good option. Clear oils will darken the wood slightly and you can get an idea of how much by wiping a damp not wet cloth over the surface of the bare wood. If you have a look at the products recommended and let me know if you have any further questions.

I want a very natural look, like its not treated at all if possible. The exterior is oak, the drawers are ash with plywood inserts. The cutlery will only touch the plywood. I planned to use teak oil but not sure if it suitable for both the exterior and drawers. Any advice would be great Thanks. A Hard Wax Oil is a good option.

It is food safe and gives the wood great protection, whilst leaving it looking and feeling very natural. The clear will darken the wood slightly and it is advised to carry out a test area first to ensure that you will like the finish achieved. And the link above will take you the extra thin oil that would be suitable for harder woods such as Oak and I would expect the ml tin will cover approximately one and half to two meters squared.

If you have a read up of the products and let me know if you have any further questions. We have some hard wood gates that seem to have a coating that can peel off, hence water is seeping in, I would like to remove this coating and just stain and oil them to make it easier in maintaining in future years without having to go to an enormous amount of work.

As it is peeling and flaking it could be either a paint or a varnish and for stripping this you could consider Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover. And can be topped up annually or when you feel the wood needs it.

If you have any further questions please do let me know. We have ordered an unfinished oak worktop. What oil is best to protect it and also darken the colour too? You could have a look at the Holzol Worktop Oil it is a clear oil that will protect the wood and give good water repellency. It will darken the wood slightly for you and I would recommend a test area first to ensure that you are getting the finish that you want.

If you have a read up on the product and we have a helpful video on worktops on our YouTube Channel and if you have any further questions please do let me know. Hello, My husband made and installed very solid iroko window frames in our house about 30 years ago, as well as fencing. The bottoms have greyed, along with the fencing.

Do you think tung will do the job? Yes the Tung Oil would be ideal for your project it allows the wood to be flexible in changing temperatures and climates and will help to keep the wood water repellent. Water ingress is the biggest problem when it comes to wood and so regular maintenance will help to prevent damage. There is very little UV protection in this oil however so wood may continue to silver a little over time.

We just build pine book shelves. I bought tung oil and put it in the side. It looks the same though it probably gives protection.

What will happen if we did not use tung or any other oil on the pine hook shelves? What is the worst thing that can happen? I am asking because we like how they look and smell raw without any oil. Thank you very much. You may find over time, depending on the environment that they are in that there is some warping, although this could equally not happen, it would be the result of changes of temperature or moisture levels through the year.

And the wood may mark easily with for example cup stains or moisture. Or finger prints can mark the wood also. These would be difficult to clean off and may need sanding or degreasing. Dust and dirt will potentially be difficult to clean off also, but not impossible, it can collect and accumulate in the grain also which could be slightly harder to clean off.

So essentially all of the things that the oil protects from are what the wood would be susceptible to. Any of these changes, marks or stains however could be very minimal if at all based on how you use the shelves over time.

Feel free to let me know if you have any further questions. I have recently had some rimu board placed along the top of my bath which has a shower over it. The builder has finished the rimu board with Danish Oil. Firstly, will the oil protect the wood against everyday showers with hot water? Secondly, the wood has been nailed in place; if I go over it again wood and nails with the oil, will this keep it waterproof where the nails have entered the wood?

It would be fair to say that most oils give a fair to good level of water repellency, but no product, even varnish is fully waterproof.

So any standing water or excessive exposure to water can result in stains or marks. Refreshing the oil regularly will help maintain the durability and ensuring good coverage around nailed areas, but any exposed wood will get damaged by water penetration. Do let me know if you have any further questions. Hi Sam, Found your very interesting website and thought it best to ask my questions here. Thanks, Janet. Thank you for your inquiry, unfortunately you can not apply a preservative over the oil as the oil will prevent penetration.

You can wait for a couple of years for the oil to wear away and then lightly sand to remove any left over, and then treat with the preservative.

Or if you really want to apply the preservative then sand back now and start again. Let me know if you have any other questions. I have recently purchased a house with hardwood windows that are 40years old I will be painting them grey externally with a opaque osmo product. Internally I have rubbed them back to bear wood and was going to use a an osmo oil which is clear to show the wood off.

However the oils such as osmo say for external use only? Could you recommend the best oil for my windows internally. Also should I have any concerns about the bathroom area that has excessive condensation build up when using an oil? An interior oil from Osmo is the Polyx Oil. This is a clear oil that will protect and enhance the look of the wood, darkening it slightly.

It is available in sample sizes and I would recommend a test area first. For the bathroom I would also recommend a first coat of the Osmo Wood Protector , which will prevent the wood from going brittle over time. Condensation can cause issues if the wood is not maintained well but the Osmo ranges are very good protective treatments. Have a read up of the products and let me know if you have any questions.

Is there anything you can recommend? Hard Wax Oils are durable and hard wearing but will need topping up in areas such as doorways or high traffic areas sooner than others. The good thing about oils is that they are easy to patch repair and will blend well for situations such as yours. A test area should be done first to check compatibility with your current oil and to ensure that you will get a finish that you like.

The Hard Wax Oil is available in same sizes for you try, and please do let me know if you have any further questions. There was already dark walnut stained solid oak floors fitted downstairs and we had some caramel coloured oak hardwood installed upstairs. Our decorators after cleaning washed the floor downstairs then applied teak oil.

The upstairs was new and not particularly dirty during the works but they real oiled it anyway. What can I do to stop the stickiness.

Really they should have carried out a test area first to ensure that they where using the right products for your stairs. It could be over application that is causing the long drying time or stickiness. You can try wiping over with some white spirits to remove the excess oil that is not drying. The Oil is supposed to soak into the surface of the wood and as it is oak is likely to need a thin application.

When oil remains tacky this is usually the result of it being unable to absorb due to over application or something on the wood that is preventing penetration. Try the white spirits and see how you get on. I recently purchased 2 vintage Wegner wishbone chairs.

They were previously oiled but not maintained by the owners. The joints where re-glued with epoxy and there were numerous water stains.

All this to say that I decided to lightly sand them in order to remove the areas where epoxy had run and the areas with water spots. I had hoped to keep the patina and just oil them. Teak, Lemon, Tung????

Tung Oil is the oil that will change the wood the least. With a drying time of around 18 hours, it requires coats and then regular maintenance, depending on use. Alternatively, for a slightly more durable finish you could look at the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil , although like many oils this will darken the wood slightly. Test areas are essential not only to ensure you like the finish that you will achieve but also to check there is no adverse reaction to any previous treatment or that absorption is prevented.

I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do let me know. I have a pitch pine pew to preserve for outside use what is the best way to protect it. Thank you for your inquiry, my first recommendation would be to use a Preservative from Osmo this will help prevent mould, mildew and rot. I recommend this one as it available in a smaller size tin, whereas many of our other are only in 5 Litre tins.

Test areas are always advised and these products are available in sample sizes. If you have any other questions please do get back in touch. It is a pine desk and the lid has warped. We were able to sand it down, restore moisture an used some weights to press it back down to straight. We left the weight on for about hours but 12 hours after taking the weight off, the bow began to come back.

Would tung oil help to keep the bow out? What else can we do? Sorry I am not sure that I can help you with this one. Oil will definitely help the wood, but not reduce the bow. You may be better asking advice from the many wood work forums on the net.

Sorry I could not be of more help. I have had a Danish teak dining table sanded and oiled using ordinary Osmo oil but I am concerned because if any small drops of oil or grease land on the table they seem to be penetrating the surface and staining it. We are trying to decide what to do and have had conflicting advice.

Some people say to strip it back and use Osmo extra thin, others to use teak or danish oil and others to lacquer it. Please could you let me know what you would do. And so a thinner oil is more suited, however as long as the Osmo Polyx Oil has absorbed into the surface of the wood there should be no problems.

The oil is water repellent and resists many liquids but if anything oil based is spilt it will start to absorb if not removed promptly.

The good thing about the Polyx Oil is that it is easy to patch repair, simply sand back the area effected and re apply some oil, it will blend well. All that said both products dry hard and as look as they are applied correctly then the issue of stains and marks are likely to be very limited if at all. I hope that sets your mind at rest and if you have any other questions please do let me know.

We have cedar fences which have lost their lovely natural colour. They are not grey yet as only been up for 6 months. How do I get the lovely colour back and protect the wood? Would Danish oil be any good? All the best Katie. You may find that a clear oil is all you need to bring back the colour of the wood. Clear oils will enhance the natural colour and grain of the wood.

You could try wiping with a damp cloth as this will give an indication of what a clear oil will achieve. The problem with clear oil however is that the UV Protection is limited and regular top ups are required to prevent the natural silvering of the wood.

Feel free to let me know if you have any other questions. Do the clear versions of the decking oils still have the same UV resistance as the tinted versions? Hi Sam, thanls for the reply.

However, I did ask a second question earlier: I have a teak table and chairs to re-finish outside. Which out of all the oils you do is most water resistant and has the highest UV and wear resistance?

I have cedar installed on the ceiling of my shower, and as trim around the windows. The shower is new and the wood is still raw. I have read that boiled linseed oil is what I should use to protect the wood from water damage.

I have several questions: 1. Do you agree about the linseed oil or is there another product I should use. I am in the US and trying to get the project wrapped up soon. How many coats of oil do I need to anticipate applying for the best protection?

This will help to keep the wood flexible and nourished through the varying temperature and humidity changes. Two thin coats of this would be enough and then regular maintenance.

Unfortunately we do not deliver to the States but I do believe that Osmo have some suppliers out there. Having used up my ml bottle of Barrettine teak oil halfway through oiling my oak garden furniture, I ordered the 2 litre bottle from yourselves.

The reason that Barrettine do not advise use on Oak is to do with the Tannins in oak when mixed with some oils, can cause blackening of the wood. However in the last 10 years WFD has traded we have only heard of this happening once. It would also be fair to say that if the Oak is older and more weathered it is less likely to result in any black patches than fresh new or green oak would.

I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get back in touch. Also, I have a teak table and chairs to re-finish outside.

The best option would be to apply a black oil over the top. I would recommend the Osmo Country Colour in Charcoal. Although some what pricey the Osmo needs to be applied very thinly and so is really quite cost effective as a little goes a long way.

Applying an opaque black finish such as this will also greatly improve the UV resistance. And it just requires a top up coat when you feel that the wood needs it.

Alternatively, you can apply a clear oil over the top without losing the black effect finish that you have achieved with the Ronseal Total Wood Preserver and any clear Decking Oil with UV Filters would be suitable. I would like to protect it. I carry pallets which are slid in as well wooden furniture. Do you know what would be best to protect the ply on the floor. You could have a look at the Ronseal Diamond Hard Floor Varnish which is an easy to apply hard wearing and durable finish.

And with a range of colours you can get a dark or light finish to the interior of your van. I hope that helps and please do let me know if you have any other questions. I am replacing the wood slats in an outdoor park bench.

I am using White oak. What kind of oil would I use to best protect from the weather and UV. These Oils will soak into the surface of the wood and is easy to patch repair and to maintain over time. Always try a test area first and if you have any other questions please do not hesitate to let me know. Because you are looking to treat Iroko, which is a hard tropical wood, I would recommend Teak Oil.

These are generally thinner than other exterior wood oils making them more suitable for exotic hard woods that have a tight grain. This would need regular maintenance due to the fact that there is no UV Protection in this product. You could look at applying the Osmo Anti Slip Decking Oil if the wood will take this, test areas will show, both these products are available in sample sizes.

Although regular annually or bi-annually maintenance is needed with oil application it is easier to re oil than when varnish is used, because although a varnish will last longer it will eventually peel and flake and need removing in order to retreat. What is the best way to repair a small spot ring without sanding down the entire piece?

We have a blog about repairing a varnished floor and the principles will be the same. It is not as easy to repair an varnished surface as it is and oiled one, and it may not be completely invisible but have a read of this blog and you can decide from there.

And if you have any more questions, please do not hesitate to get in touch. Hello, I have oiled some oak skirting and was planning on varnishing as a finishing cost. Could I protect the oil by waxing instead of varnishing or should I just leave the oiled skirting and re-oil every 6 months. No you can not apply varnish over an oil.

I would prefer an oiled finish. And was wondering if I should use boiled linseed oil or the osmo polix oil? Thanks nick. The Osmo Polyx Oil will give a better level of protection and water repellency than a linseed oil.

It will also have a quicker drying time and require less coats. The Polyx is available in sample sizes and I would always recommend a test area first. Please feel free to let me know if you have any further questions.

Hello sam, I have 3 oak veneer doors that I have just been fitted and are brand new I have been told to use danish oil on just want to know if this is the right advice. As long as there are no instructions from the manufacturers that state you should not use oils, then a Danish Oil would be an ideal product to use on you doors. Could you please advise of treatments to use to protect the wood and waterproof it as much as possible.

From reading previous replies I am thinking a preservative then a wax oil? I would like the wood to be as natural as possible with a slight sheen. Many thanks Paula. This is a common question and I nearly always recommend the Osmo Wood Protector first, as this will help to keep the wood flexible and nourished in the different temperature and humidity changes that occur in a bathroom. As a top coat product I would recommend the Osmo Polyx Oil the clear oil will protect and enhance the natural finish of the wood, creating a water repellent surface that is easy to clean and maintain.

Always try a test area first and if you have any further questions please feel free to get in touch. For the best protection I would always recommend applying a good Preservative first this will protect from mould, mildew and rot. And then a top coat products such as Decking Oil will give good UV protection and water repellency.

Both products advised are not suitable around animals during the application process but once dried they are animal safe. If you have any further questions please do let me know — Sam. Hi, We have purchase a house that has oak windows and they have been painted. We recently dry ice blasted one inside and like the result.

We now need a finish but confused on what would be best. Thank you for your inquiry, would you be able to tell me if the cleaning process you have used has removed all previous products from the wood and you are looking to treat bare wood?

It may be easier if you where to send me some photos of the areas that you would like to treat, lightening wood can be difficult but I would be happy to have a look and see if there is anything suitable that I could recommend. You can send details to wood finishes. Hi, We have original s teak staircases which we are planning to restore. Is sanding the best way to remove this prior to refinishing?

And could you advise what would be best to use to refinish the wood following this? We would like to use an oil but unsure what type would be best. Many thanks! Thank you for your inquiry, the remove any stubborn varnish you could have a look at the Peelaway. It is a great stripper for old and new paints and varnishes but test areas are strongly recommended to ensure there are no adverse reactions.

Once you are back to bare wood then you could have a look at the Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin as this is designed for hardwoods such as Teak.

It will give what we call the wet look and you can get an idea of this by wiping a damp cloth over the surface of the wood. The darkening that occurs from doing that will show you roughly how the oil will affect the wood. Please let me know if you have any other questions about products or application. The Osmo Polyx Oil is a hard-wearing and durable Oil that is easy to patch repair and maintain.

It will keep the wood looking natural, but will slightly darken. I hope that helps and please let me know if you have any further questions. Im upcycling teak furniture interior not exterior furniture and want to put life back into the wood..

Would you agree? I was also warned never ever use a finish such as varnish, varathane, urethane or any finish that will seal the wood. Once done the benefit of using teak oil is forever gone. Is that true as well? As a tropical Hard wood when Teak is new it often has a high content of its own natural oil in it and so it makes sense that applying and oil to it is the best option.

Because it is a hardwood you do need an oil that is slightly thinner than a standard to ensure good absorption and I can recommend the Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin as this is specifically designed for tight grained wood such as Teak and Ipe.

It is fair to say that applying Varnish will prevent you from using an oil, but not forever. Removing the varnish back to bare wood will allow you to again re apply an oil to the wood.

But applying varnish and then removing can be a messy business and although varnish is good for many things I would recommend using an oil for your Teak Furniture. Please let me know if you have any other questions. I am in the process of finishing some yellow pine floorboards for a customer.

I was keen to use a hard wax oil but the customer wanted to use Danish oil, as he believed that was what had been used before. Unfortunately, after sanding back and applying the first coat of Danish oil, my customer does not like the result as it has heavily emphasised the red grain. I am thinking of using a Fiddes American tinted hard wax oil to even out the colour difference but Fiddes tell me that I would need to sand back again.

I was suppressed at this as both are spirit based products. Do you think I need to sand back or would a wipe over with white spirit do the job. Only one thin coat was applied. Thank you for your inquiry, yes wiping over with White Spirit is the way to go. Generally speaking one oil will go over another without problem but as Fiddes have already adviced to remove the Danish Oil, you should go ahead with that plan.

I would also recommend a test area with the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints to ensure that you are getting the colour that you and your client want. Please let me know if there is anything else I can help with or you have any further questions. We have bought a new unfinished rosewood table. Do I need to clean it before I oil it and if so, how? Yes I would advise to clean the stains before oiling.

You could try wiping with White Spirit first and then lightly sanding any stains that are not removed with the white spirit. Try not to over sand in one particular area as this will close the grain. This in turn will make the oil appear patchy when applied. For a hard wearing and protective oil you could look at the Osmo Polyx Oil which require two thin coats and is available in a range of sheen levels.

Please let me know if you have any further questions. I have a mid-century Elm and Beech wood Ercol table with an oiled finish that I am hoping to revive minor stains from years of use. When wiping the table with a wet cloth, there is a brown stain coming off, although I am certain the table has not been stained nor does it smell of tobacco.

Many thanks, Anna. It is difficult for me to say what the stain may be but if it is coming off with just water then, maybe a simple water based stain that just colours but offers no protection. For an Oil to use you could have a look at the Osmo Polyx Oil. This has a drying time of approximately eight hours but if you can leave it a little longer before putting back into full use that would allow the oil to cure better.

You should do a test area first to ensure that the Polyx Oil is compatible with any previous oil treatment or remove the previous oil with White Spirits and sanding before applying a fresh treatment.

Hi , I need 6 oak veneer doors treated but want 2 leave them as natural as possible so no colour change , can u advise me please. The first thing for me to say is, are there any manufacturers instructions or stickers on the doors that tell you what you can not use? Many veneer doors say that you can not use oils or stains and to go ahead and using these products will invalidate any guarantee that you have.

Having said that, here at Wood Finishes Direct we believe that oils do not have a negative effect on veneers and so we recommend them, but it is at your risk should you go ahead.

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