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small-combination-square-woodworking-quote Qyote W. Brass has a quality feel and doesn't rust. There are permanent dark etched markings on the measurement scale. All the stamped metals, and artificial stones, and imitation woods and bronzes, over the small combination square woodworking quote of which we hear daily exultation — all the short, and cheap, and easy ways of doing that whose difficulty is its honour — are just so many new obstacles in our already encumbered road. Prop 65 Warning. They are precision etched to woowdorking accurate 45 and degree readings.

Today, most woodworkers own a combination square, but few know all of its uses, and many try to get by with inferior versions. The biggest technical challenge Starrett faced was milling a groove that was perfectly parallel to the edges of the rule.

After years, the Starrett square is still considered to be the best. I use my combination squares to check corners and miters. The adjustable square is also a great example of ergonomics, even though it was invented a century before the term became current. The curve in the stock is a comfortable place to park your thumb, or it nestles neatly in the crook between you thumb and forefinger. The combination square and its brother, the adjustable double square, come in several sizes, designated by the length of the rule.

Four, six, and twelve-inch lengths are the useful sizes for the woodworker. These fit easily in an apron pocket and cover most common tasks. Every machinist who practiced the trade in the last century had at least one, so they are plentiful on the used-tool market. Like a glove. The head of a good combination square fits comfortably in the hand, in almost every usable position.

In old tools, the level vial and small metal scribe are often missing. Parts are generally interchangeable and available; if you find a usable head you can get a rule for it, and you can replace a broken lock bolt. You may be tempted to get these, but in all likelihood you can live without them. The heads are available two ways: cast iron or hardened steel. Make a parallel line a precise distance from an existing edge by sliding the head along the work and holding a pencil to the end of the rule.

The cheap imitations you see for half the price or less are, well, cheap imitations. That kind of tool will hurt every time you try to use it. If you only splurge on one tool in you life, get a Starrett square. There are also options for the graduations on the rule.

The most common is called 4R. The groove in the rule slides in a tongue at the end of the spring-loaded reversible lock bolt. If you remove the rule, you need to line them up. Scales in other formats are available. If you work in the metric system you can get a rule divided in millimeters, and you may find an older rule divided into 10ths or 50ths of an inch.

You can always buy a replacement rule with the 4R graduations. The larger divisions are on the side of the rule with the groove, and I work most of the time with the groove up. There is a solution.

The rule rides on two nubs inside the head. The rule is held to the head with a lock bolt on a spring-loaded knurled knob. A tongue on the end of the bolt fits in the groove, and when you tighten the knob, this holds the rule against two raised nubs within the head. We're happy to recommend them in the table above. If you'd like to know more about how we came to our decisions, please read on.

An accurate woodworker's or engineer's square is a valuable part of any toolbox. It allows you to check quickly if something is square — but that's really all it does. Some have graduations for measurement, but they are of limited use. A combination square is much more versatile. It can be used to check degree or degree angles. Some come with protractor heads that measure other angles. Different lengths can be set, making it useful for marking.

The blade, which can be used separately as a rule, is usually much longer — 12 or 16 inches — whereas an ordinary square is six inches or less. At first glance, the combination square appears to be a simple tool.

However, the materials used and the way it's put together make a big difference in how accurate it is and how long it lasts.

The blade, in combination with the head, are the two major components of a combination square. Quality of construction in both cases goes a long way toward defining the accuracy of the finished tool.

All blades are steel, but better ones are hardened and tempered, extending their life. Similarly, markings that are etched into the surface don't get worn away. Metric versions are also available. Rigidity is important to long-term accuracy, so the thicker the blade, the better. The head is extremely important. Not only does it have the main bearing surfaces for gauging 45 and 90 degrees, it also has the slot through which the blade passes.

If that doesn't run true and at a precise right angle, the tool will never be accurate. A machine screw is used to lock the blade in place. Quality here is everything. On cheap combination squares, the head is often made of die-cast alloy frequently just called "metal". Unfortunately, this is often not the case with low-cost tools. Better-quality heads are made from cast iron, which is extremely tough and resistant to oils and chemicals.

The very best heads are made of forged and hardened steel, precision ground. It's an engineering tool rather than a woodworking one, and considerably more expensive. A small bubble vial allows you to use a combination square as a spirit level. It's often nice to be able to check that something is level as well as square. Given the length of the head that it's built into, however, there are limits to its accuracy. If you need to check level over any distance, it's advisable to use a laser level or a traditional model.

The scriber is usually inserted into the back of the combination square. It's a short, steel point that can be used to mark lines on all kinds of surfaces.

Its main advantage is that it marks a finer, more accurate line than a pencil, and the mark doesn't get blurred or erased by handling. The downside is that the mark is made by scratching into the material, so it's not easy to remove later if necessary. It's also quite small, so those with large fingers might find it difficult to use. There are a couple of possible variations on features to consider. Some combination squares also come with a protractor head, a center finder, or both.

Protractor heads can be used to set and mark angles. While generally limited to degrees, some are marked on both sides and can Small Combination Square Woodworking Question gauge a full degrees by being flipped over. A center finder is a fixed V shape with a degree angle inside the V. Any of the three heads can be paired with any of three blades The heads and blades are available individually so you can get just what you need.

If you work strictly with the ratio but on a wide range of stock widths, you might want one head and all three blades. The deadline to order yours is Monday, May 11, Once orders are filled, they will be retired from our product line. Delivery is scheduled for August Credit Card Policy. Please note if you're paying by credit card, you will not be charged until your order is ready to ship. However Paypal and other payment services may charge you at the time the order is placed.

Let Us Know If there's enough demand, we may re-run some of these tools.

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