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sanding-discs-for-wood-lathe-2020 Hi Kent. I use my air compressor to sanding discs for wood lathe 2020 out dust from the vents on the sides of the drill. Many of the more expensive drills that could be wanding for this purpose have a Max RPM of around An example of this progression is 80, or depending on manufacturer,and so on. Now I am enjoying an excellent sandinf that is versatile, stable, powerful and precise! Thanks for the tips they are a real learning tool. Username or Email Address.

It is so good to have a supplier that is dedicated to providing quality Vicmarc equipment together with truly outstanding customer service. I placed a request for a quote and was shocked that 30 minutes later Ken called me to discuss my order. Not only did he review my order with me, but offered a wealth of information about turning. I appreciated the exchange so Metal Sanding Discs For Wood Design much I had to send him some of the blanks of a type of wood he had never turned before. He promptly sent me a quote and we were able to finalize it the next day.

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These tools are like being handed the keys too a Porsche. Friendly, informative, customer friendly approach. Service I received from Ken was outstanding and exceptional in every way. Called me within 30 minutes! Thank you very much Ken and I look forward to doing business with you again in the future. All Rights Reserved. Face Plate, Aluminium mm M33 x 3. Table, Sanding. The mesh pads also sand fantastically on wet green wood.

Discovering that sandpaper needs to flow with the grain was one of those ah-ha moments while learning woodworking that sticks with me. I still marvel at this simple wood-grain property. Break the rule, and the scratch marks will show. If the sandpaper cuts against the grain of the wood, marks from the sandpaper will be visible. However, turning the sanding direction 90 degrees makes the paper move in the same direction of the wood grain, and everything looks great.

When I started turning bowls, it took me awhile to learn to determine which direction to make supported cuts with the bowl gouge. But what about bowl sanding directions compared to grain direction? I like to turn side-grain bowls. If you look down on a side-grain turned wood bowl, there are two locations that are end grain and two positions 90 degrees away that are both side grain. Flat boards are easy; bowls are very different.

One theory for sanding, the purist theory, is sand by hand. Take the time and manually work through all the grits and create a beautiful final finish. Yes, that is possible, but hold on, there are other ways. My childhood experiences attempting to accomplish anything with abrasive-free sandpaper perhaps taints my view on hand sanding.

I have zero desire to turn a beautiful wood bowl then spend the rest of the day, or several more days, hand sanding. On the other end of the spectrum are turners that drop the gouge and grab the power sander all without turning off the lathe. They push through the grits like shifting gears in a high-speed race to the finish.

While this approach, at least the speed part, appeals a bit more to me, the results are somewhat lacking. Recall that grain direction discussion above. When all sanding is done with the lathe turning, the sander is cutting against the grain half the time.

Against the grain, sanding leaves scratch marks no matter what the final sanding grit. An attempt to blend speed with quality is my approach to using my bowl sanding tools to obtain the best results for me. Rarely will I hand sand a bowl. I still want to get the sanding over with as soon as possible and get to the next bowl blank. Examine the bowl surface for any trouble areas: tool marks, gouges, or a nub or divot in the center bottom. If the center bottom does have a nub or divot, use specific bowl bottom techniques to fix the area before you start sanding.

Depending on the extent of any trouble areas, start with a coarse sanding disk, perhaps 80 grit. With the lathe off, sand with the grain more about this in a minute just in these trouble areas.

With the trouble areas fixed, move up to a finer grit sanding disk. Turn the lathe at a slower speed, around rpm, begin sanding the entire bowl surface. Sand from rim to center and after a short time, stop the lathe and address the areas where the rotating sanding cut against the grain.

The locations to inspect are usually the end grain and transition areas between the side and end grain. After finding the newly created scratch marks in the end grain areas, with the lathe off, sand with the grain to remove these marks.

I then move up to the next finest grit sandpaper, once the surface looks smooth and free of scratches. With the new sandpaper attached, I will return to step three and repeat the steps three, four and five. Once you become aware of these trouble areas, you will instinctively know where to find them. Potentially, anywhere the sanding disk cuts across the wood grain will produce scratch marks.

Take a look at the graphic below. While the bowl was spinning, the side grain areas were in line with the side of the sanding disk. The red and yellow marked areas are what needs addressing with the lathe off. These trouble spots just need a little more attention before moving on to the next sanding grit.

The idea of power sanding with a spinning disk with-the-grain might seem odd at first. However, turning with the grain is very achievable. It does take a bit of practice. At no point should the entire circular sanding disk engage the wood bowl surface. If it does, the sanding pad grips the wood and vibrates wildly to free itself. Instead, the best sanding action is on the side of the sanding disk. Turning my wrist slightly angles the sanding pad and utilizes the right edge of the pad only.

Using this right side of the pad, which turns in one direction, we can sand with-the-grain. Simply think of the right side of the sanding pad as being linear and line it up with the grain as you sand. Keep the pad moving without stopping in one area. A long pause can remove too much material and leave a mark. Also, let the sanding disk do the work.

You should not be pressing hard on the disk. If you find yourself pressing to make the disk sand, it might be time to replace the sanding disk. Turning and twisting your wrist will position the sanding pad side in various locations to better line up with any wood grain flow.

In step four described above, I typically work from the outer rim around the bowl several times sanding the grain until I reach the center. The active lathe sanding only takes a minute or so. The better your turning skills get, the less sanding you will do.

I used to start at 80 and go to , , , and then Now, most of the time I only sand , and grit. Three grits reduce the sanding time even further.

With the lathe spinning, like in step three, do not cross the center line during power sanding. Stopping at the center may seem strange at first, but crossing the center line equals double sanding. The area sanded right before reaching the center point is the same area on the other side of the center point.

If you cross the center and sand on the other side, a trough or shallow valley will begin to form around the bowl bottom center. The purpose of progressing through various sanding grits is to remove the scratches and marks from the previous sandpaper grit. The sandpaper grits need to progress in a way that is most efficient time-wise but also does the job of removing the previous marks.

Each sandpaper grit is fifty-percent finer than the previous grit. An example of this progression is 80, , , or depending on manufacturer , , , and so on. Depending on how smooth your surface is, you may begin at or I usually start at and proceed up to That process is only four changes of the sanding pad and does not take much time. Sanding smoother than closes the wood cell pores and makes it difficult for the oil finish to penetrate.

Yes, you can sand green wood. High-quality sanding pads work best. If a wood is sopping wet, I will let it turn on the lathe at a slow speed for ten or fifteen minutes. Pausing a bit after turning the surface usually allows enough evaporation to make sanding much more manageable.

Green wood can be nasty to sandpaper. The wet fibers combined with the tree resins can quickly gum up regular sandpaper rendering it useless. They will cut green wood, just not as long as the Mirka brand sanding pads. Mirka sanding pads, made of a mesh material, are easy to clean off, usually just pulling them off the velcro foam pad is enough.

A quick shack off and they go back on ready to continue. The downside of the Mirka pads is that mesh material will grab the irregular surface of a natural edge bowl and tear. The Hurricane Blue sanding pads being a flat and even paper material do not grab rough edges often and do fine on drier woods. So there are several trade-offs between performance and expense when it comes to sanding disks. For me, I find blending the features of two different types of pads works best.

These are the wood bowl sanding tools and finishing techniques I use in my bowl making process. And here is my Recommended Sanding Equipment. Please leave a comment below and let me know how you sand and what bowl sanding tools you use when finishing your bowls. Do you have a recommendation on the optimum RPM to use on the drill used to spin the sanding discs. I recently purchased an inexpensive electric drill specifically for sanding bowls.

Is that fast enough? Many of the more expensive drills that could be used for this purpose have a Max RPM of around Does the RPM of the sanding disc matter, or is that not a concern? Interesting question. And the lathe speed is usually half of the speed used while turning. Simply the fact the two surfaces are turning creates plenty of motion to sand very effectively. Great presentation. Found this on the web as I have found myself taking a lot of time sanding bowls. Now I know why!!!!!. I used your technique and I must say I cut my time down dramatically and with less utterances of foul words coming out.

Thanks for your help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! LOL, less foul words is always better. LOL, Glad this helped! Happy Turning! I use an air powered mini random orbit sander from Ken Rizza. It holds 2 or 3 inch sanding pads and has become my go to sander for bowls. Hi Kent. Will you please explain the reverse function when it comes to sanding. Any clarity on this subject is much appreciated. Cheers, Al South Australia. Some people like to reverse the lathe for some of the sanding, in order to remove fibers that may be laying over instead of sanded away.

Similar to shaving in opposite directions. Thank you. I would be interested to know your thoughts on a bowl that I turned recently for a tree that had died, was left standing, stripped of bark and then fell, I believe its white oak, but not sure. In creating the bowl there was a fait a mount of tear out however I got past that hurdle, and when finished, sanded and went up to and applied Tried and True, once in the house and use a couple of times the surface became rough and raised..

Should I apply more Tried and True? Many Questions! It would be great to hear your thoughts and Ideas Many Thanks Andrew. I like to think of turned oak bowls more like leather than wood. Ripples and movements seem to never stop coming, even after many applications of oil finish. Be sure you apply the first coat very thin with zero build up. If the wood surface is discolored by the oil, that is enough finish. This helps penetrate into the wood until the surface wood cells become saturated with finish.

So you may need to add many layers of finish. Make each layer super thin and wait for it to cure. Basically wait until the surface just feels smooth and has no hint of stickiness.

As always, sage advice Kent, thank you so much for spending time to reply. It occurs to me that information about different wood types is equally important as to their status dried vs wet etc etc. Yes, every different tree has plenty to discover. A very experienced local turner and friend clued me in to wet-sanding. I discovered a great alternative — butcher block conditioner, available at your local building supply center.

It contains food-grade mineral oil, beeswax and carnauba wax. Using the oil will even bring a gummed-up old piece of emery paper back to life instantly, clearing out the resins stuck in the grit.

This is a great side benefit for a frugal woodworker, but the best part is that if you keep around some pieces of emery paper in varying states of wear, you basically increase the range of grits you have to choose from. I usually have several pieces of and grit paper in various states of wear. You can get a piece of worn paper to cut that just feels like a piece of smooth ordinary paper. This technique quickly produces a very silky-smooth finish with some nice depth to the grain. I will then often finish the piece with another type of salad bowl finish or friction polish.

Kent, what an amazing website! Well done sir.

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