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salad-bowl-finish-butcher-block-countertops-up We ended up going with soapstone-- because, unlike limestone-- it is completely non-porous and will not stain. This may be fine — especially if the countrrtops is wanting something that looks better, and is willing to salad bowl finish butcher block countertops up the surface with more respect for the aesthetic, and less demand for the utilitarian. The options may surprise you. Countertops and cutting boards will likely take a beating over the holidays. Maintenance would sure be simple: flood on a new coat, let it soak into the wood and wipe off all the excess.

Can you recommend an oil finish Salad Bowl Finish Butcher Block Countertops Quick that is suitable for a food preparation surface? Proper surface treatment however is important to guard against germs or mould growth. It is important to note that Rockhard Maple and a few other closed grained hardwoods are the only suitable woods for cutting board use.

Never use oak, ash, hickory or other open grained woods for a cutting surface as the pores can harbor germs and decaying food particles. Softer closed grained woods deteriorate with knife cuts and usage and become unsanitary and wood splinters or particles wind up in foodstuffs. A Cutting Board or Butcher Block Surface needs an oil that can be repeatedly applied to fill the wood pores and repel food particles, liquids and oils. The oil must be an inert oil or otherwise it will turn rancid.

Never use vegetable or cooking oils to treat or finish a cutting surface, as in time, the wood will reek of a rancid spoiled oil odor. Mineral Oil from the drugstore may also be used. Howards Cutting Board Oil , is a proprietary blend of oils, available in non breakable half pint bottles.

I think I want Waterlox and he doesn't want to use that then I will wait and do it myself. Should i remove the top from the island would be work, but I probably could do it so both sides can be finished? Ideally, you finish both sides exactly the same, but if you can get to most of the bottom with it fastened down, it will probably be okay.

Hey - make sure you ask a wood expert whether you need to do something to the island before you put waterlox on it since you've already put mineral oil on it. We use mineral oil on ours 2 yrs old , but when I mentioned to our carpenter that if I didn't want to continue that I'd just waterlox it, he said NO - can't put waterlox over mineral oil. I'm sure there's a way - maybe sand it or something, but make sure you tell them what you've already put oil on it, in case they need to treat it differently.

I am letting the oil disperse somewhat now. I will call Waterlox I think and ask them about that. I think sanding ought to take care of it Perhaps I can strip it with mineral spirits or something. I just found this on the Waterlox website. Looks like I should almost let my block dry out and then sand with grit. The regular instructions say to sand with grit prior to application of Waterlox so I think I would need to check with them whether that still applies AFTER the Allow the countertop to age for 30 days.

Scuff sand with grit sandpaper. Clean the surface with a rag dampened with mineral spirits paint thinner which will attract any remaining dust and dirt.

Mineral spirits paint thinner is recommended because the Waterlox Original Tung oil finishes are based in this solvent and is therefore compatible with it, and it also evaporates slower than other more intense solvents such as lacquer thinner.

Waterlox is phenolic resin ie plastic mixed with tung oil. It looks and behaves a lot more like a varnish than an oil finish. It reportedly can be recoated without stripping or sanding. It forms a layer of finish on top of the wood.

I tried some and didn't care for the look. I finished my 3" cherry countertops with Polymerized tung oil, from Lee Valley. I reoil every months. Seems sturdier and longer lasting than mineral oil. I have two sections. The weight of the countertop plus the caulking between the top and the backsplash seems to hold the top in place pretty securely. If I ever had to remove the first section, I would not bother repacing the screws. You're welcome, Tina. Call the gentlemen paintsource.

They can tell you how to proceed if you still need advice. Wondering if anyone has experience or suggestions about these? One benefit is I could use it now, in the winter, without having to majorly ventilate. Here is a link that might be useful: Tried and True Wood Finishes. Sign In. Join as a Pro. Send a Houzz Gift Card! Chandeliers With Free Shipping. Flush-Mount Lighting. Ultimate Lighting Sale. Chandeliers and Pendants. Waterlox - best for butcher block island - or something else? HI, This post got lost so I am reposting.

Thanks in advance! Email Save Comment Featured Answer. Like 1 Save. Sort by: Oldest. Newest Oldest. I used tung oil which I think is what Waterlox is, but don't know this for sure Tung oil is food safe but takes quite a while to dry. Like Save. John Liu 11 years ago.

Related Discussions How to seal butcher block island top Q. We did not care for the satin finish Waterlox But we loved the original finish, and did find that to be user friendly. Actually, after 2 years of use as our island counter where we eat every meal and do homework, but do not cut directly upon , we just decided it was time to refinish it. There was a lot of scuff marks and some sharpie marks we wanted to remove, as well as a spot where some solvent had done a little damage.

It was a pretty easy job to lightly sand and then apply two coats of the Waterlox. What do the experts suggest using as a finish on a butcher block countertop? He was quite impressed. Chris Marshall: When I was in high school, I worked behind the meat counter at a local grocery store. The end grain soaked up enough of that fatty oil over time to bead up when water was applied to it.

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