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router-finger-joint-jig-plans Then I removed the spacer and staggered and aligned the two notches on jigg up to the fixed key. Sorry, just vinger an ear worm. I didn't have a companion with me to video record the first use of the jig, but I took plenty of photos here. Set one of the sticks down flush to one side of the groove. I just used a drill press to drill through and then countersunk the screw. Use a push stick, router finger joint jig plans scrap. Cool jig.

Using this tool will make those cuts clean and efficient. The box joint is an alternative to the more popular dovetail joint. An interesting point that the box joint is stronger than the dovetail joint, and does not require the custom dovetail jig. Instead, you can create this one with scraps and belt out box joints all day long. To create this instructable, you'll need the following parts: - Wood scraps - ideally some 1x12 and 2x4 scraps - length will depend on your table saw, but two feet long should be plenty.

That said, this is an instructable, so I'll go into some detail as necessary. Please comment your corrections. The sizing of your rails may vary with your table saw. Measure your grooves and rip cut two strips of wood off the end of your 1x12" board that are thick enough to sit just below flush to the surface.

If your rails are too high, your jig will rub on the bottom of the groove rather than sit flat on the table. I ripped the strips off using the table saw with the standard blade and tuned them to the right width and height on the sander.

Too long and you'll have too much resistance, and you could potentially hit something on the other side of your table. Too short and the guide rails won't do their job. However, the length is not as important as the height and the ability to flow smoothly through the channels. Before moving on, take a minute to slide your guard rails back and forth and side to side.

They should glide easily along the groove sanding will assist with that too - the guide rails will be smoother. Rip cut a 4" board off of your 1x12 scrap. I missed this photo when assembling the instructable. I'm sure you'll figure it out, you're smart For your entertainment, here's a photo of a pegasus flying from a pizza hut floating island to an astronaut. This box joint will be set precisely to do half-inch cuts. You could make it do wider or narrower cuts, but it will be fixed to whatever width you build it as.

Any table saw that works with a dado bit will almost certainly support a half-inch wide groove. If you decide to build your jig to a different gauge, then make replace all the measurements here with the desired width. Take your remaining 1x12, hold it vertically against the rip fence, and pass it over the blade. This will set one width of your spacer. Cut out the rest of your spacer. Note: this will be tough at the end, because your smallest piece will be between the blade and the rip fence.

Use a push stick, another scrap. Be careful as always! Use the mitre saw to cut off two lengths of this stick, about four inches long. Now that you've done all the rip cuts, it's time to start attaching the rails. For this step, you'll need the rails, glue, and the widest remaining piece of your 1x12 should be about " wide by now - I was lucky enough to have a fresh piece, so my base is a full 12" wide, but it doesn't have to be that wide. Square up at least one end of this board on the mitre saw that is, make sure it's perpendicular to the sides.

This is important for the next step. Measure the length of your remaining widest piece of 1x12, and the width between your guide rails. Subtract the guide rail distance from the length of your board, divide that number in half, and measure that distance from the end.

For example, assume I have 24" of board, and the gap between guide rails is 10". The difference is 14", and half of that is 7". So, I come 7" in from one end of the board and mark it with the carpenter square for now, just do one end. Glue one of your rails down to the side of the line closest to the end of the board. Use your square to straighten it up. In the first picture, I obviously did not use a carpenter's combination square.

I suggest always using a combination square, as my jig did come out a bit off angle. If you're too impatient to let the glue dry, predrill a few holes and screw it in place. This doesn't have to be pretty, so I screwed them in tightly so as to countersink them below the surface of the rail. This will prevent the screw head from rubbing on the table.

Since you know your width between your rails, measure out the width from the edge of the fixed rail closest to the center, mark your next line, and set the next rail in the same way.

While the glue is wet, take a second to fit the jig in your table saw to make sure you got the width correct. It's important that the guard rails line up to the table saw grooves, moreso than lining up to the ends. To make sure your guide rails work, test for squareness of the rails, and to Router Table Finger Joint Jig Plans Database get clear on where the middle of the board is, cut through your base about halfway and check it with the square. Go find that 4" rip cut you made in step 3.

Go ahead, I'll wait. OK Got it? Use your square to draw out a line perpendicular to the end of the board you squared up in the previous step about two inches from the back of your base. Double-check that line is perpendicular to the saw cut in the middle.

It's more important that you are perpendicular to the saw cut than to the end of the board anyway, so having both there is a good way to make sure you're square all around.

Set your backplane in with glue and screws. Put two screws on each side from underneath. Also, make sure to give several inches of clearance from the center cut. Support this board with the 2x4 scrap.

Put it in place behind the backplane and screw it down from the bottom and through the backplane. OK, time to get interesting Move the rip fence out of the way. Set the height appropriate for the board you used for your base. Set one of the sticks down flush to one side of the groove.

Glue one side of the other stick and butt it up against the other piece and the backplane. I cut two pieces of wood the same size. Then I removed the spacer and staggered and aligned the two notches on and up to the fixed key. It then became a matter of leap-frogging over the key until I reached the end of the board. The same result can be gotten by doing each separately.

The first goes against the permanent key, the second goes against the spacer. Basically, you are creating tongues and groves that will go together to form a joint. I was very pleased with the result. Now I must admit I looked at dozens of How Tos on making this jig and Frankensteined my own version to fit my router.

You'll notice I only have one runner where as most I saw have two. Even one I saw made a second runner off the side of the table. Some were so elaborate it'd take me forever to build it. The simple one I show here took a few hours on and off while doing other things around the house. It meets my needs, and that is the whole purpose. Make a jig to suit your personal requirements. I'm making my jig now. One question.

In fig. Anyway to fix that? Reply 1 year ago. Hi, Allan, yes there is a way to eliminate that offset. When doing your first pass and you are NOT against the key stop, make sure you accurately make that first cut without any tag--or offset as you called it. Some people use accurate keys in the open slot. What I eventually did was to carefully test scraps until I had an accurate starting point and made a mark on my jig. It works. Let me know if this helps.

I will be following you for I also born … This is just the plans I have been looking for More by the author:. About: In my shop I have a name for hammer, saw, and plier. The saw is Tess, the hammer's Joe, and Glumdalclitch is the plier. Yes, I'm brillig, and my slithy toves still gyre and gimble in the wabe. With that, le… More About Kink Jarfold ». Did you make this project?

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