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miter-gauge-shooting-board-11 I had been building furniture for a few years before I finally built my first miter shooting board. Just a miter gauge shooting board 1.1, touch the zhooting before you start. I have made them square on 4 sides. These holes are just for "clamping" purposes. Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.

Email Address. The Vogt Shooting Board is a high quality ramped shooting board, particularly suited for precision planing of end grain.

The ramp introduces a skewed cutting action and also spreads the wear over a greater distance of the cutting edge. Unlike traditional shooting boards, the sole and plane iron are deliberately set slightly away from the side of the board. The sliding fences can be easily adjusted to meet exactly the cutting edge of the iron to support the fibers of the workpiece.

If the end of the sliding fence gets planed out of square it can be removed and quickly trued. There is plenty of extra travel. Beside that, once again best wishes to both of you. Covered my mitre jigs on my blog? Yes kind of I've attempted a couple of these and both were slightly out, unless you can make them adjustable they're not much use, mitered edge boxes etc look terrible if the miters are not spot on.

Hi Tony, thanks for your comment. I'm not quite sure if I got your point. Is it about that it makes no sense to have the stop blocks adjustable? Until now I'm quite satisfied with the design I have chosen. But I'm with you, if the miters are not spot on the corners will look ugly. Is there another design you can recommend for hand tool only work?

Hi Stefan, Thanks for the quick response. I have tried a couple of designs but they produced miters that were very slightly out. With some sort of adjustability I could have corrected the miters. I just finished making one similar. The angle of the mitre is controlled by the bridge rail that supports the left side of the plane foot.

If the rail is screwed but not glued it can be shimmed to give the correct angle. Some times boxes with mitered joints are looking more elegant than dovetails. The solution is a miter shooting board or donkey ear, how it will be called too. I've made one. Entirely by hand, with hand tools only.

Curious how? I'm using my shooting board very often in the every day work of the woodshop. Experienced woodworkers have mentioned the importance of using a shooting board in a hand tool shop for a long time. So I won't have to say anything new about it. I was just looking for a solution to a new problem in my shop.

My plans are to build some boxes in the next few weeks. The design I have in mind contains miter joints and I was wondering how to do exact miter joints in a hand tool only workshop. I guess some of you are already working with it. The answer is a miter shooting board or donkey ear. There are several designs out there. My decision was to make one based on a design of Robert Wearing. Google for these terms and I'm sure you will find a lot of results. The design is easy to understand and pretty easy to rebuild.

Your materials should now look like the materials shown in the picture below though slightly less mangy looking if your scrap pile is nicer than mine. Things are about to get interesting. You are going to cut runners into the wood for your wedges. When you are finished with the project, your wedges will fit tightly into their runners and can be used as fences as you shoot your miters with a hand plane.

Get that piece back out. You need to use your combination square and your newly created wedge pieces to recreate the diagram shown below. Then lay your wedged pieces on the two degree lines you just made and lightly mark the approximate location of the sides of your wedges in your finished piece. When laying out the degree angles with the wedges, make sure the entire piece protrudes over the edge, not just a small corner, because you will eventually miter the end of the wedge and enough needs to be protruding that the whole piece is flush with the edge of the board.

Start with a light stroke, being sure to keep the square flush with your work. These lines need to be extremely precise, so use every precaution here not to let your square or your knife slip. Use several strokes of the knife, each deepening your cut. Next, mark your two degree angles. Then, using your wide chisel it needs to be very sharp , pare away the waste ahead of the three lines on the waste side of the lines, being very careful not to cut into or cross the lines you made with your marking knife.

You have now made a perfect shelf in which your backsaw can ride to deepen the cut even further. You want to saw exactly down to this depth so your waste will easily and accurately chop away.

Cut all three lines in this manner. Use your chisel and mallet to pare even more of the waste. You are performing the exact same task you did a few minutes ago with the marking knife, just on a bigger scale this time. Set your wedge against the shelf, and use your marking gauge to mark the opposing edge of your runner.

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