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makita-multi-tool-plus-battery-update

Power tool battery packs are expensive. As with makita multi tool plus battery update, digital cameras, and other electronic devices, 3rd party batteries are available. First, there are often premium battery cells. Compact 18V-size battery packs have 5 cells, higher capacity battery packs have 10 cells. Second, brands spend a lot of time and effort in designing their battery pack cases with a major goals in mind — protecting cells and increasing longevity.

This could be from the elements, over-current conditions, over-depletion, or heat. One brand even has an explosion-proof testing room where they push battery cells and packs to their absolute limits. Even if a 3rd party replacement battery company uses the same premium cells with the same rating, makita multi tool plus battery update kind of protection do they build into their battery packs?

With all the recent news of makita multi tool plus battery update you know, those self-balancing 2-wheel Segway-like scooter toys catching fire during charging from unidentified causesI am even more reluctant to ever consider 3rd party battery brands.

Can the same be said about replacement battery companies, or are they designing I use that word loosely and manufacturing replacement batteries to be as cheap and appealing to your budget as possible? I would not entertain the idea of pairing my power tools with off-brand replacement batteries. I once tried an aftermarket 18v makita battery for my drill.

It did not work well. I ended up sending it back for a refund after a very short time period. I think the circuit board goes bad and takes a couple of the with it. Well I found a 6. When I was buying for a business we often bought our makita multi tool plus battery update batteries in bulk to save money.

While these were advertised as being directly from the manufacturer — and we bought from manufacturer-authorized reputable dealers — they sometimes came in bulk — not clamshell-pack packaging — which was a bit disquieting. We did buy aftermarket — remanufactured NiCad batteries for older tools — where the manufacturer was no longer offering new stock. But — with LiIon batteries — we were always a bit concerned about the fire potential from thermal runaway in bad contaminated cells.

Do a quick search on Amazon and read some of the reviews about forged or copy cat batteries for Samsung devices. You will see quite a few have blown up or caught on fire with supporting pictures as evidence. The cells are a standard part, the control circuitry is relatively standardized, and the really tricky makita multi tool plus battery update is good charging circuitry — which is frequently built into the charger.

It really comes down to whether they build the control electronics into the power pack like ryobi or into the tool not sure who does this, possibly Bosch for their 12v tools. It is tempting especially if your not buying into a tool line your not going to use often.

I got a bare Makita cordless sander I would like to use, but I have no Makita tools or batteries, so it pretty much just sits in makita multi tool plus battery update box waiting till I buy a kit if it ever happens.

This is when the 3rd party battery though kicks in, but it never happens because of the liability if anything does go wrong. If a brands battery burns my house down they will be held liable for it some off shored made in China battery pack not as much. I will say in another situation is if you have old Nicad tools that are hard to find OEM battery packs for or are extremely expensive. One nice thing about Ryobi is the 2 for 99 battery deals they run on the big tool buying holidays.

It defiantly helps with buying additional battery packs. Too much risk, makita multi tool plus battery update warranties, etc. Now — please do tell about that picture at the top of this post…. Please say yes…and when? Looking forward to that 9. Hope they are makita multi tool plus battery update schedule.

Thanks as always for your informative posts! Be aware that generic tool packs tend not to have thermal cutouts built in to them. I learned this working at a battery store some time ago. Never used a generic power tool battery, but I did get a generic battery for my old laptop. I bought an off-brand battery for my MacBook. After a few months it swelled up and popped out of the bottom of the laptop.

Are you sure they are 3rd party? To that end — how about batteries made by the company that makes the Original product. So who actually makes these batteries? IE the circuitry — Is all the protection for over current, over volt, temp and etc all in the battery or is it housed in the tool and the charger? I had to buy one for my old milwaukee It was NiMH, which is a bit different but again the battery was dumb.

All controls were in the tool and the charger. For my camera and non-smart phones in the past? The replacement Canon battery we bought for our SLR performed better than the Canon at one fifth the price. Also the Canon battery is makita multi tool plus battery update and the off brand is makita multi tool plus battery update going strong and we bought them at makita multi tool plus battery update the same time.

I have little fear of overheating or exploding if a camera because these are really low drain applications. I might start to worry about higher current drain in this case, but I have replaced the battery in my iPod touch with an aftermarket one and it also was fine. They makita multi tool plus battery update three contacts and one of them it marked T.

I think the iPod battery I replaced only had two wires. I was looking at half price M12 batteries. I often use eBay sourced off brand batteries with usually good results, especially for my Dyson DC16 vacuum. I also have Batteries Plus rebuild my NiCad battery packets with more powerful cells for about the same cost of factory models.

FWIW, I purchased some INRR cells, mailed them to a semi-local shop that owns a spot welding machine and they whipped me up some fresh 5-cell 18 volt batteries for my Makita multi tool plus battery update stuff for pretty cheap. The batteries I found on Ebay for about 2 bucks a pop and the spot welding was just 10 bucks and the cost of shipping both ways.

Even if you just bought in bulk from a big name brand, you could probably get a lower price. Yes this is what I do. Put a load resistor across each charged cell and check the voltage. Then replace the bad cells with Good Ones.

Bought a month ago 3 no name digital camera batteries from chinaebay,all from different big stores. With reservations… YES. Charged it and used it on the M12 rotary tool with cutoff wheel on 0.

I got out a genuine M12 battery and it chugged through 2 cuts of the same piece of steel and then it only dropped 1 bar on the battery strength. Vastly different types of cells and protection circuitry required. I think 3rd party batteries are an affordable option if you know what you are looking for. Compare amps, volts, etc…. I have been satisfied with my most of my 3rd party batteries for my electronics.

As far as power tools go, I found some Dewalt makita multi tool plus battery update offs on Ebay. They were just OK. This leaves me to another point. You can find out the charge level of each battery before you put it onto the tool which is really nice for those of us that work on ladders or hanging off rafters. There is certainly room for quality 3rd party Li-ion batteries at the prices the major brands charge for them, when purchased separately.

Lithium Ion batteries, in general, have become much cheaper to manufacture over that last several years, and will continue to do so for some years, but less so for tool batteries. So, I expect them to become cheaper as well. There are lots of OEM batteries available on Craigslist, usually from kits that get broken down. Still not as competitively priced as they could be, but probably better than going the third party route. That may be the cheapest way to get good batteries.

Most tools are bought by DIYs, and they usually do not need to have a large stock of batteries just sitting idle and losing capacity they should keep them partly charged and in a fridgeso buying a bare tool on craigslist is the best way for them to go.

However, I would not want to void the lifetime warranty on my Ridgid 18v power tools so, no I would not use 3rd party batteries. Ive never used el cheapo batteries in anything. It makes sense that a knockoff would be a decent bet, given that many OEMs build in China to begin with. Their responsibility ends at making thr battery and any issues beyond that i. The GPG key was a nice touch, though. I should have left out the side story about my friend because it does take away from the rest of my comment which I know to be occurring in other battery technology.

At any rate, your right its not a GPG key or anything fancy. Its more than just resetting, I believe they actually enter in the milage, date, serial number perhaps, etc. The reason why? The car apparently moderates the charging in relation to both the type and the age of the battery you enter. Basically there is a system in the computer that controls the alternator.

At least thats what the dealer is going to tell you. If thats total bunk, I have no idea. You can read forums of people who successfully replace it with no issues at all, and others that have strange problems afterwards trying to do it on their own including a severely decreased life of the replacement battery due to the makita multi tool plus battery update of the charging by the computer.

What they do is set the parameter list for standard plate or AGM as the internal resistance values differ.

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