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Similar to shaving in opposite directions. Thank you. I would be interested to know your thoughts on a bowl that I turned recently for a tree that had died, was left standing, stripped of bark and then fell, I believe its white oak, but not sure.

In creating the bowl there was a fait a mount of tear out however I got past that hurdle, and when finished, sanded and went up to and applied Tried and True, once in the house and use a couple of times the surface became rough and raised.. Should I apply more Tried and True? Many Questions! It would be great to hear your thoughts and Ideas Many Thanks Andrew.

I like to think of turned oak bowls more like leather than wood. Ripples and movements seem to never stop coming, even after many applications of oil finish. Be sure you apply the first coat very thin with zero build up. If the wood surface is discolored by the oil, that is enough finish. This helps penetrate into the wood until the surface wood cells become saturated with finish.

So you may need to add many layers of finish. Make each layer super thin and wait for it to cure. Basically wait until the surface just feels smooth and has no hint of stickiness. As always, sage advice Kent, thank you so much for spending time to reply. It occurs to me that information about different wood types is equally important as to their status dried vs wet etc etc. Yes, every different tree has plenty to discover. A very experienced local turner and friend clued me in to wet-sanding.

I discovered a great alternative — butcher block conditioner, available at your local building supply center. It contains food-grade mineral oil, beeswax and carnauba wax. Using the oil will even bring a gummed-up old piece of emery paper back to life instantly, clearing out the resins stuck in the grit. This is a great side benefit for a frugal woodworker, but the best part is that if you keep around some pieces of emery paper in varying states of wear, you basically increase the range of grits you have to choose from.

I usually have several pieces of and grit paper in various states of wear. You can get a piece of worn paper to cut that just feels like a piece of smooth ordinary paper. This technique quickly produces a very silky-smooth finish with some nice depth to the grain. I will then often finish the piece with another type of salad bowl finish or friction polish.

Kent, what an amazing website! Well done sir. To quote Jerry, I stumbled on your site a few days ago and agree it is amazing. As you promised, so much info all in one place. What am I doing wrong? When I first learned this I had to think about it a bit. If you sand from the bottom up as I do, then cross the center point, you just sanded the area around the center twice. This makes a valley or groove around the center point. Instead, sand up to the center point but do not cross the center, with the lathe running slow.

Stop the lathe and sand the center area smooth, sanding with the surface grain pattern. Let me know if that helps.

Check out this recently released article I made just to address your question about grain orientation. Am I correct to believe that you are making the bowl from the side of the log instead of the end grain?

Thanks and really enjoyed your article…I saved it to refer back to once I actually start turning bowls. Yes, most wood bowls are side-grain oriented. Of course, there are also bowls made with end-grain oriented wood. It can be done either way, but for the most part, bowls are made with side-grain oriented wood. In context of sanding, are there any other circumstances other than green wood where you prefer to use the mesh over paper? Thanks for the question.

In general, Making Bowl Sanders University I use the mesh pads most of the time because they last longer, grip the velcro backing well, and perform very well compared to the paper sanding disks. I usually use the paper disks when I know the wood is going to eat them up, like when it is green for example. The grain runs all over the place and appears to be quite a problem to sand without getting scratches.

Any recommendations on getting this thing smooth other than hand sanding it? If so, I would recommend making very thin finishing cuts to leave the surface as smooth as possible.

Turn the lathe up as fast as possible without creating any vibration, staying within safe limits, see this article. Now make a very thin and slow final pass basically shaving the surface. For deeper tear out or marks on the surface, you may need to make a couple passes like this. Be sure the gouge is perfectly sharpened and make the feed rate of your gouge very slow and deliberate. Helpful as always and always more questions. Have you used a random orbital sander?

Compare that to the basic drill please. On a well turned bowl of average size you define that what is an average amount of time you spend power sanding and hand sanding? I have never used an orbital sander on my bowls.

The disk pad would be too large. Sanding time depends on many factors; wood hardness, moisture content, bowl gouge skills, etc. On average a inch bowl takes about 5 to 10 minutes to sand. If there are trouble areas then the time might increase a bit. I do no hand sanding usually, only lathe on and then lathe off sanding all with the electric drill.

I spell that out in this article. Absolutely excellent article Kent, as always. While I am up in age and self taught turning sanding always been a mystery to me. Like you I wanted to be turning not standing there rubbing my bowl with a piece of paper. I did a respectable job using 3 or four grits and sanding the entire surface No one ever really told me what I was doing wrong. You article opened my eyes as to what I was doing wrong.

Finally someone opened my eyes to exactly what I was doing wrong. I finally turned and finished a bowl that I was truly happy with. From the first bowl they have improved, now I am turning out bowls that I am truly proud of. This does prove you can teach an old dog new tricks. Thanks for the tips they are a real learning tool.

Charles Harmon. Please let me know how else I may help. I have a friend who loves to finish and he does a great job of sanding and finishing but spend many hours doing so. I had rather be turning. Thanks for the compliment John. So, why not find a happy medium. The sander will last a long time. The big thing is to blow out the dust. I use my air compressor to blow out dust from the vents on the sides of the drill.

Gosh after reading how you sand a bowl, I am at a loss! Even when I get better I may still do this, less expensive and I like how the bowls look. Depending how I use the finishing tool, I start at grit but my lathe is on at about rpm. I have been turning for years as I turn other creations but bowls is a challenge for me. Sanding will also be a challenge for me at the moment.

The blocks of wood is side grain, so the edge of the bowl is the end grain. That is my issue right now and any help or additional advice is much welcomed. Thank you so much for sharing all of your knowledge with us who love to turn. The end grain needs to be sanded with the lathe off. Use the edge of the sanding disk and sand with the surface grain of the wood. Now spin two more nuts onto the all-thread. The last two nuts will be locked in place by using two wrenches to tighten them against each other.

Snug the other nut against the two locked nuts, holding the washers in place as in [Fig08]. You can cover the edges of the washer and last nut with a strip of masking tape to keep stray adhesive away [as in Fig08 ]. You can also use 1 jaws on a 4-jaw chuck, or remove the top jaws from a 4-jaw chuck. Spread some newsprint over your lathe bed to protect the ways, and spray adhesive on the mandrel while turning the lathe slowly by hand [ Fig09 ].

If you are using the Mechanical or Reinforced Velcro mandrel you will need to apply some foam to the center of the mandrel before winding the rest of the foam on. Spray adhesive on the strip. Then wind the strip onto the exposed all thread until the level of the foam is equal to the diameter of the nuts [as in Fig12 ].

Note that the foam extends past the end of the all-thread. Figure 12 After finishing winding on the filler foam to the mandrel in Fig Now cut a strip of foam to form the bulk of the ball. For the Mechanical or Reinforced Velcro, this strip should be the width of the distance from the washer to the end of the filler foam you just applied. Take a coffee break now to let the adhesive cure a bit. Starting to wind foam on a mandrel. Starting to wind self-stick on a mandrel.

After winding the foam on a mandrel. Now prepare to shape the ball. Remove the newsprint from the lathe bed so turning on your dust collector will be less exciting. Wrap masking tape or a narrow ripped strip of duct tape all the way around the tailstock third of the foam [ Fig16 ].

Turn on the lathe at a moderate to fast speed and also turn on your dust collector. Use coarse abrasive 80 or grit backed up with a wood scrap to shape the back half of the ball [as in Fig17]. First bring the un-taped portion of the ball to round, then shape the back of the ball [ Fig18 ].

After taping the front of the ball to keep it from unwinding while shaping the back of the ball. Underneath the ball is coarse abrasive taped to a scrap of wood that will be used to shape the ball. Shaping the back of the ball. After shaping the back of the ball. Stop the lathe. Gently remove the strip of tape protecting the tailstock end of the ball. Apply another strip around the headstock end of the ball. Now stop the lathe again and remove the protective tape. After shaping the front of the ball.

You can see the pretty blue foam dust coating on the abrasive. For the Velcro only mandrel, just make sure that a disc bent around the ball covers most of it [as in Fig21 ]. For a Mechanical only ball, check that the disc can extend over the washer on both sides of the disc.

For the Reinforced Velcro ball you have to be more finicky, as the thickness of the Velcro hook layer will throw the measurement off. Leave the backing on, but attach it via the hooks to the loop side of your disc.

Now wrap the disc around the ball so that the Velcro strip is against the ball, and make sure that the both sides of the disc can extend over the washer. If necessary reduce the diameter of the ball by sanding some more. Wrapping a disc around the ball to check that the size will be suitable.

Now cover the foam with duct tape to protect it. Finish up with a strip wrapped around the middle; other than that you can apply the tape in what ever fashion you like as long as it covers all the foam [Fig23].

Remove the mandrel from the lathe. Starting to apply duct tape. This a plain mandrel so I carried the duct tape onto the mandrel to strengthen the joint between mandrel and foam. After applying duct tape over the whole ball. The last steps were to wrap a strip of duct tape around the covered part of the mandrel and the center of the ball. Velcro partially applied. For this one I was using some small random scraps left over from another ball.

The Foam Ball Sander is now complete. Fig27 shows a larger Mechanical sander]. A completed Mechanical Foam Ball Sander. You can start with any source of abrasive you like, but it makes sense to start with discs because they are readily available and the pattern is round. To conserve space the patterns are combined.

To cut the abrasive with leaves that overlap, follow the black lines. The non-overlapping version looks a little neater, the overlapped version will last a little longer perhaps, and protect the underlying Velcro better.

Use the black lines for a pattern with overlapping leaves. Use the straight black lines and curved red lines for non-overlapping leaves. The abrasive discs have to be modified to fit the ball. Copy or print out the appropriate pattern [in Drawing 1] and attach it to thin cardboard with spray adhesive.

Cut out the pattern. Use it to trace the cutting lines on the back of your abrasive and cut it out by hand.

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