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If you think providing your drag queen name provides you some anonymity… Check this out:. I thought that thicker blades, and carbide tipped blades are thicker, would not tension well on a run of the mill bandsaw.
And for me, a smaller blade at high tension cuts better, especially resawing, than a wider blade at less tension — at least for non-carbide blades. Is tensioning this blade at all an issue? Chris I hope you let folks know that the carbide tipped blades are wonderful for dry lumber. If they are cutting wet wood like logs etc. They need a different blade all together.
I need to start sharpening them. Oh, and ignore that other, um, person and keep writing. We know and love what you are doing, those of us with brains anyway. How can a seemingly innocuous article in a woodworking magazine prompt such an acrimonious outburst as Laguna Bandsaw Blade Reviews that. And you say you have to put up with much more of this rubbish from other sources all the time!? Could I suggest you forward his comments to a suitable psychiatric publication?
Thanks Chris Regards. The logic of buying better was driven home for me years ago. The manufacturer of Fram filters had an advertisement line that went: You can pay me now, or pay them later.
It pays to buy quality, and when possible, locally and from cottage businesses. So, where does one go to have a broken band saw blade welded? By Christopher Schwarz. So I baby these two machines.
But they have three advantages: 1. They cut much faster than regular steel blades. They leave a finish that rivals that of a table saw, even when resawing. Product Recommendations. Chris is the former editor of Popular Woodworking Magazine. He continues to blog and publish woodworking books at Lost Art Press.
He's a hand-tool enthusiast though he uses power tools, too. Look into Wix filters. Adam May 18, Suffolk Machinery has something to say about tensioning that makes sense to me. I found the secret of the bandsaw was a sharp blade and slow feed. JV Sullivan May 12, Chris or anyone else : Do you know anything about really big band saws? So the question is: should this saw be fitted with tires of not? Joe Sullivan.
Bradinsc May 11, Phil Spencer May 11, Chris in drag? I would like to see that, would you shave first? Phil S. May 10, Dazzzle May 10, Elsie Wedgewood, all in Jasper blue. John Cashman May 10, I have the Laguna which will re-saw almost 13 inches but I have never had a need for that much. The Jet looks to have a more robust frame than the Laguna.
It is a substantially heavier saw Laguna , Jet Weather I would need that or not is another topic for discussion! I am all for the 14bx but was just curious if anyone has or has used the new Jet 15" saw and their thoughts. In my recent buying experience, there is always going to be "a different tool" that is either a little more expensive, or has different options. Between those two saws you likely will never see a difference in daily use.
For the blade speed that size saw runs, and the max size blade it will really tension, I don't see the need for paying extra for 3hp over 1. I doubt a 15" will really tension a 1" blade, but maybe they're talking about a thin one. I don't see it tensioning a 1" Woodmaster. So is the consensus to not over analyze this and stick with the original decision of purchasing the 14bx?
I am in a similar situation to Alan with an interest in either a Laguna 14bx 2. I have a acre tree farm and would like to harvest the occasional trees that fall, process the logs thus requiring adequate resaw capability and utilize the boards in a variety of woodworking projects again using the bandsaw for the project work.
Digging deeper, the fourth saw that has my attention is the Laguna LT14 x14 SUV souped up version with 3hp, 14" resaw and lb weight and it seems like it would be a more fair comparison to the Jet 15".
While I am still researching and very much open to any input anyone has , I am leaning toward the Jet JWBS with the edge going toward the horsepower, option of using a 1" blade for resawing, and the extra weight. For now though, I'm still window shopping and researching. If you want to make boards out of logs, you need much more saw than either one of these.
Horsepower is near the bottom of the list of things that matter. Blade tensioning, and blade speed is what matters when speed is important. Both of those things come with size. Either of these saws is for someone who wants to make a piece of furniture, now and then. Free Spirit, I agree with Tom.
All of the saws you listed are fine saws for doing what they're designed to do. They will all make veneers out of dry boards, cut the occasional blank into turning stock, etc. You're wanting to put wet trees through whichever saw you go with. That's a different application and one that calls for a different saw altogether. You need to consider a bandsaw mill for harvesting trees into lumber.
We got the 14SUV a couple of years ago and it is one fine saw. It will resaw about Our saw has the 1" Resaw Laguna Bandsaw Blade Reviews University King blade and it tensions just fine but it is a thin blade. If you want to see it in action on that particular cut here's a short video I've posted this before but I like the video - LOL! That's a nice cut. What was the actual time of making the resaw cut though? That's why I was saying either would be a fine saw for making an occasional piece of furniture, but not really for producing a lot of resawn lumber.
I tried to find a youtube video of someone using a large bandsaw with a 1" Woodmaster CT 1. I'll try to remember to make one the next time I use mine. I tried every good blade there was on my 14" bandsaw, and when I bought the 24", that really could tension the Woodmaster blade, I sold all the carbide tipped resaw blades for the 14".
The same cut that took 20 seconds or maybe it was not remembering clearly , took 2 seconds on the big saw, with no loss of cut quality. I don't remember the tooth count on the Resaw King I had for the 14", but the Woodmaster is 1. I'm not trying to run down the smaller saws, but there is much more to it than simply size and hp.
When people say it can't really tension a 1" blade, I think they are thinking Woodmaster, rather than Resaw King. I don't remember the thicknesses of the Resaw King, and the Woodmaster CT, but the difference is significant. I don't see significant difference between a 14 and 15 inch saw.
The 24" has about a 4 hp, and it never gets warm, even pushing it hard for a couple of hours. Thanks, Tom. I went back and looked at the original video and both cuts took right at I could have cut it faster but there were several factors involved - this was the first time I had cut anything that wide, it wasn't my piece of wood someone sent it to me to cut , and it was expensive and there were no backup pieces if I messed this up.
But, this is just our little home shop and not a production facility so 90 seconds is fully acceptable to me. For us in our little setup that represented some cuts that demanded our attention. It's a good saw that I only use for resawing so the 1" Resaw King blade never comes off; I don't even have other blades other than a backup for this one.
I have a King-Seeley 12" that I use for everything else. In my particular situation, there are two issues that lead me away from a bandsaw mill and to one of the bandsaws I listed. The second is that you can't always have everything at least at once , and given the choice between a bandsaw mill with one primary purpose and a bandsaw that can perform routine bandsaw work and additionally do some mill work within it's capabilities , the later option seems like the best place to start.
My personal log milling will generally be the occasional fallen or dying tree as well as any cull trees trees harvested to allow more valuable nearby growing timber to prosper and consist of logs less than 14" in diameter and typically cut into a 4'-6' section for easy handling.
Back at the shop, they will likely turn into 1" maybe up to 2" thick boards and stickered perhaps in a homemade solar kiln until dry and ready for use in whichever projects that happen to develop.
Larger logs and more valuable timber that are not part of a scheduled harvest would be taken to the nearby commercial hardwood sawmill less than 4 miles away and sold, or perhaps a local Amish or similar mill for sale or processing.
I'm not looking at a lot of dedicated home milling and am basically focusing on utilizing what I have readily available and preventing it from simply becoming a piece of firewood or left to rot as forest debris. Being retired, time isn't a huge factor and thus I can deal with a slower speed of cut as well as a longer drying time for thicker stock before being resawn at a later date.
The additional shop-time and intricacies involved in home-harvested wood and processing can be rewarding in itself and my goal is to continue enjoying my retirement status and not become overly involved in a high production operation. From what I've been able to find online videos, forums, etc. I truly DO appreciate all of the feedback and the other posts on this forum and the insight presented.
The brain cells have kicked in to weigh each point and I am continuing to refine and further my research with the hope that the end result will bring many years of pleasure.
Check Craigslist near you to see if you can find a used, big bandsaw. We used it to resaw 10, lineal feet of Cypress shingles with it, as fast as the wood could be pushed through the saw-boards to a heaping pickup load of shingles in 2 hours.
I've used it for resawing other stuff with it multiple times since that job, and am still using the same blade. A saw like that would have an easy time with what you want one to do.
I'm afraid you will be dissapointed with the new saws you are looking at, as far as their capability goes. I also have a 14" Delta, that belonged to my Dad, that has every available upgrade, so I am pretty familiar with what a 14" saw will do.
I sold all the little used resaw blades I bought to try after the first day of use with the big guy. I leave the 24" set up for resawing. Your shop has plenty of room for one. Whats that like You was moving Tom Cancelleri. It didn't take 10, lineal feet to fill up a pickup. I didn't count how many truck loads we got out of it. First we ripped it on a tablesaw without a fence to get rid of sapwood, and put a cut in the center of the arc of growth rings.
The next step was to cut the 8' boards into 2' lengths. I tied the switch on a chop miter saw. One helper pushed the board to the stop. I chopped the cut as fast as I could slam the saw down with my left hand, and handed the cutoff to the other helper who stacked them next to the bandsaw.
All tools were stationed so fewest footsteps possible were made. I made a sled that the 2" board rode on to cut two tapered shingles out of it. I pulled the sled back, first helper put a 2' board on, I pushed it through maybe 2 seconds-took 20 to 30 seconds on the 14" saw , and other helper took the two shingles off Timber Wolf Bandsaw Blade Reviews the sled, and stacked them in the truck, that was backed up close to the saw. The sled has safety stops on it, so no hand was every anywhere near the blade.
The finished work can be seen on the Cypress shingles page on my website.
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