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kitchen-drawer-slides-bottom-mount-unity Unoty posed the question to the Unity forum and received a similar range of answers, including the suggestion that a short would be pretty unlikely at one of the botom. At least others have not reported this happening. In fact, the more locks you put on your bike will just steer the thieves to cut off the bike rack itself. One time, I camped next to a guy who had kitchen drawer slides bottom mount unity Sprinter van with a raised platform bed, and he showed me the aluminum slide out racks he made for his mountain bikes, and it was a really trick solution. Thank you!! Anyone know about this? Ditto window covers.

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All standard features and specifications are subject to change. When trying to show their first unit at the Recreational Vehicle Industry Association's National Convention they were banned because they were not members.

So, they displayed their unit in the parking lot and called themselves the Renegades. The name just seemed to stick and now, many years later, they continue to be the industry leader in performance, quality and innovation. Known for their innovative approach to customizing any of their products to fit customers lifestyles from upscale luxury and craftsmanship on the interior, all the way to the rugged and solid FRP exteriors.

Chuck McKibbin saw a need in the marketplace for trailers that could haul racing cars. Although the company did make a few trailers for Nascar drivers like Dale Earnhardt Jr. The company has also branched into other markets creating trailers to haul horses or those outfitted for dogs. In the principals of Shoreview Industries partnered with Chuck McKibbin in an effort to continue the growth of the Renegade. Chuck retired from the business in and now currently Shoreview Industries and the employees at Renegade continue the work that Chuck created making a quality unbeatable product.

Request Info. Lastly, a bit of foam insulation glued across the gap along the top in the back of the refrigerator opening. So the fridge stopped working. No matter how far I turned thermostat, the compressor would not kick in.

I tried disconnecting and reconnecting power but the compressor would just not run anymore. I ended up pulling the fridge out entirely to try to figure out what was wrong. I was measuring around That measurement also eliminated the possibility of voltage drop due to insufficient wiring.

Well, interestingly enough, with the fridge pulled out of its compartment, the compressor started running normally again! Then I put the fridge back in and monitored it for the rest of the day and overnight.

Sorry, I forgot to take a picture after removing that false wall in the back. The compressor ran normally again, keeping the fridge nice and cold again. This also seemed to fix a strange fast cycling behavior I would often notice where the compressor would run for a few seconds, stop and then start up again and do this over and over again for minutes.

The Unity came with a Bauer EM keyless entry lock for the coach door. Well, sometime in , Bauer updated their lock and addressed some of these issues. So far, it does seem to be working well. As a bonus, I removed my little tape hack from the striker plate and it seems like the rubbing squeak is gone. Replacing it is just a matter of removing six screws, pulling off the back half, disconnecting a wire lead, easing out the front half and then reversing all that for the new one.

What happens is it becomes impossible to lock the door either by turning the knob inside or the key outside. You sometimes have to bang on it repeatedly to get it to free up and allow you to turn and lock it.

See video on the right. I contacted the manufacturer Bauer about the problem and linked to my demonstration video and was very happy to hear back from them soon after. They sent me a redesigned replacement unit that addresses the problem that leads to the stuck dead bolt.

It acts as a go-between the cellular devices in your vehicle and any nearby cell towers. It comes with a small external antenna that should be mounted on a metal roof or at least on a small sheet of metal to act as a ground plane. The internal antenna is of course mounted inside. So I tried this on a different trip and was surprised to see that it made quite a difference. In one location I tested my download speed and saw it go from 1.

This and other test results was enough to convince me that it was worth permanently installing the WeBoost. So, I just used adhesive VHB tape to secure the antenna in the center of that area between my solar panels, without the additional sheet metal.

Easy peasy! I mounted the internal antenna with velcro in the entertainment cabinet where I also added some USB ports and a 12V port for the WeBoost. To make use of the WeBoost, I turn it on and I place my iPhone in the cabinet, right on top of the antenna.

Works great. If I really need to use the phone directly, I can stand near the cabinet or I can release the internal antenna and hold it against the phone. And lastly, I switched to Verizon from Sprint. As described in these threads, several potential upgrades are possible:. I decided to give them a try and just had them installed today. The Unity now seems more solid making turns on the highway or going around corners on city streets.

There seems to be less lateral sway movement than before. I also drove it on the highway up to 65 mph and did not feel any adverse effects. Not surprisingly, the bouncy, rocking motion over bumps or other uneven road surfaces remains the same as that is due to the stock shocks.

The SumoSprings are actually replacements for the bumper stops and I believe they are designed to operate under partial compression. SumoSprings are an inexpensive upgrade and it took less than an hour for a local shop to swap them in. As explained very well by someone more knowledgeable, frequently combining batteries with very different voltage levels can lead to premature failure of your batteries.

It protects for both under- and over-voltages on at Some of this is more than what you get with the more basic Trik-L-Start. Biggest hassle was really just getting to the starter battery under the floor and removing the passenger seat. Do make sure you follow the instructions though and disconnect the negative leads on both the start battery and the house battery as well as cover up your solar panels because it would be very difficult to even make the connection changes on this relay without accidentally touching multiple contacts in this tight space.

This is a cool find. They apparently run on their little watch batteries for upwards of a year. I put one in the coach and hung another underneath, next to the gray tank to watch for freezing temps and put still another in the fridge. Unlike typical wireless weather sensors, you can view the accumulated data over time and set alerts to be notified about exceeding a set range. As an aside, this collapsible ladder is what I used to climb on the roof for my solar installation.

I felt more comfortable climbing up through the skylight in the RV rather than climbing up over the edge on the outside with no one around to stabilize the ladder.

Custom van conversions and European campervans will often create a platform bed that allows for bike storage inside and underneath, sometimes even with an awesome slide-out tray. I wanted to try to stow them inside the vehicle somehow. I saw there are some fully enclosed bike bags which vary quite a bit in design and price but that means taking up a good chunk of the bedroom to stash a couple of bikes.

Not exactly ideal. After trying it out, I can see why their design is certainly more sturdy and rigid. This is of course because the rear wall of the RV is vertical and does not slope away from the carrier like most vehicles. This means that to use this rack on the back of the RV would require loosening the handlebars to rotate them away from striking the rear wall or finding something to protect both the bike and the RV.

Okay, I decided to cut open a tennis ball to fit it over the handlebar that would otherwise bang up against the back of the RV. This is working fine after weeks of driving. It does however mean that the bikes get dirty particularly so on unpaved roads and so now prepping to ride means cleaning the chain, brushing off the gears, wiping down all the shock shafts, etc.

To secure the bikes, I bought an eight-foot long, relatively difficult-to-cut chain from Abus with a loop link on the end as well as a Kryptonite Evolution Series 4 U-Lock and a secondary cable to secure the rack to the hitch mount.

I might get a double size bike cover to make them less noticeable when parked in a public area overnight. This is useful for making the most of your wash or rinse water but also for catching it for reuse when you want to stretch your use of your fresh water supply.

For example, you could potentially keep it in the shower and reuse it to flush the toilet rather than using fresh water. In fact, I make a habit of turning off the water pump most of the time when merely flushing urine. Also, having the wash basins is nice in freezing temps to avoid inadvertently sending water into your plumbing system. I decided it would be nice to have a little portable grill along and so, after reading reviews of different models, I settled on the Weber Q — which, importantly, lets you grill with the cover closed and has a temperature gauge.

Like most grills, it comes with a high pressure regulator so that you can use those little one pound propane canisters. Be sure you actually do a leak check on the fittings you installed. I found a leak on mine until I tightened things up better. As for storing the grill, I had to do a little reorganization. I was forced to use one of the undercarriage compartments. This means that you have to remove the lid and slide it in afterwards.

Jump to the end of this section if you want to skip to what became my ultimate solution! Update : Many weeks later, I also found the largest, thickest nest inside the Onan propane generator!

I sealed up the cable opening in the inverter compartment with heavy adhesive tape and I plan to fill the opening in the back of the battery compartment with Great Stuff Pestblock Gap Filler.

But the big fix was installing a well-reviewed, wired, noise-making rodent deterrent from Apesto for under the hood. I had to find where the majority of the wires pass through from the engine compartment to behind the dashboard.

I was finally able to feed some wire through from the engine compartment by first feeding a heavy, rigid length of Romex cable through the insulated opening and then feeding my 14 gauge power wire until it came out beneath the fuse box inside the cab. I used an Add-a-Circuit fuse tap kit to connect it. Beware that some of these circuits only remain active for a few minutes after turning off the vehicle or the lights.

I have it on the low setting because the high setting was quite obnoxiously loud even well away from the vehicle. On the low setting, I only really hear it while standing immediately in front of the vehicle. Fingers crossed…. With all that and the powered, noise-making rodent deterrent — all good so far! Nope, not good at all. Going to try mothballs next…. I ended up stopping at a Mercedes dealer near Portland, Oregon while we were traveling and they had them in stock and gave me a part number: Presumably it would be easy enough to order it in the future, now that we have the part number.

And those retaining clips are tough too. You need to bend back a couple of teeth in order to work the thing off of the center pin on each one. Update again June : Still having mice intrusions! A couple of new things to deal with:. Guess how I found this out! After cleaning it out and getting a new air filter installed, I created a makeshift barrier out of some metal wire mesh and stuffed it into the front of the intake.

I fixed this like I did for the engine air intake: stuffing wire mesh into those big open pockets at the front of the hood. Why the heck did the Mercedes engineers leave these air intakes so wide open to rodents??

Update June-October : The ultimate solution I arrived at: a walled rodent barrier around the RV and traps just in case. I ordered it in May and tested it over the summer and fall. Anyway, the upshot is this final system of a physical rodent barrier around the whole vehicle with traps as backups has been working.

The few times I have caught anything in the traps has been during actual trips outside the barrier and during times when the barrier was disturbed before I secured things down with the rods and blocks. I had to clear out the little drain to get rid of the collected water — something to check on regularly with the Sprinter van, I guess. All the wires appear to be secure and it seems to make good contact but yet it works intermittently.

Anyway, I tried stripping the wire insulation away to make better contact but then found it was really difficult to stuff two sets wires into there securely. So, I ended up just swapping out the outlet for a normal residential outlet with screw down connection points and within a plastic electrical box.

All good now and the other two outlets down the line now work. Well, that was strange. This was the most serious failure yet: the Onan propane generator would run but it would not deliver any electricity. I remember testing the microwave off the generator when I first checked out the vehicle before buying it from the owner.

Many months later though was the first time we tried to use the microwave and thus the generator for something. Later, I plugged in shore power and, sure enough, everything worked fine, including the microwave. All the breakers were on, including the breaker on the generator itself and resetting them did nothing to help.

Inspecting inside the access panel of the generator, I found that there was a great deal of rodent nesting material stuffed in the generator. I ended up bringing in the Unity to a local RV service center in Santa Cruz and sure enough, it turned out to be the transfer switch.

All they did to get it going again was push on the contactor plate inside the transfer switch box. Down is for power from the generator and up is for shore power. You can see it move as you engage or disengage the generator.

Just move that contactor with something non-conductive to set it free if it gets stuck for some reason like mine did. The problem is that the button snaps shear off and break after a few months of usage. So, I decided to install a very strong magnet to hold the door open. This is one of those super magnets with a center hole for a screw. I removed the strap from the wall and used one of the existing holes to secure a large metal washer for the magnet to hold to.

Seems to work well. By removing the lower nightstand drawer and cutting a hole in the hidden wall between the inside of the nightstand and the outer storage area, the cats now have free access to the external storage area that extends all the away around and under both twin beds. So the litter box can be placed in a corner of the storage area, completely out-of-sight! I first found a nice wired low amperage LED courtesy light , but then I found dozens of these little battery-operated, motion-sensing LED lights that can run for most of a year on a single charge.

I chose this one , just 15 lumens and mounted it above the partition so that it lights up with motion from either side. The twin bed model of the Unity has a Dometic toilet with a built-in macerator. This is necessary because the floorplan places the bathroom mid-way inside the van, rather than directly Rockler Bottom Mount Drawer Slides Unity over the black tank.

I think the main problem is that not enough water is added at the initiation of the flush. Instead it seems to come in too slowly and too late.

The trick is to take over when and how much water comes with the flush. Through lots of trial and error we have worked out a system that works though and, as it happens, saves water to boot. First off, we keep a one-gallon, plastic water jug in the bathroom to essentially manually flush. The point is that you want to be able to manually add water as needed when you flush the toilet. Secondly, we always make sure the water pump is turned off before flushing. So, with urine only, just flush without the pump turned on.

You can of course add a little water with the jug while flushing when you want the bowl rinsed out. Flushing without the water pump turned on has the added benefit of not leaving a bunch of water in the toilet that could splash out while driving. For solid waste, before you start the flush, make sure the bowl is reasonably full like half full of water.

Have the water jug in hand when you start the flush and then immediately add a good amount of water to start everything down the drain properly. After that flush completes, you may find you need to flush a second time again, with the pump turned off and follow with a bit more water. Instead of flushing again and again to no avail, you get it done in one or two tries.

Freeze Damage — The most important consideration is avoiding freezing damage from your plumbing. While the freshwater tank and system is in the interior of the van, the gray and blackwater waste tanks are most definitely not.

The exterior shower is also of course vulnerable to freezing. The safest approach is to fully winterize your plumbing system using RV anti-freeze and just not use your plumbing system at all. Some of us make occasional use of our toilet like in the middle of the night! The floors are pretty well insulated, but a fuzzy blanket or rug can make it all the more comfy for pets and humans alike in cold weather.

What you see here is actually a fake fur duvet cover with a thick comforter stuffed inside. It also makes a great way to insulate the cold leaking in from the bottom of the coach door and battery compartment under the steps. With the windows, we cut slits to fit it over the window knobs and added velcro tape where necessary to keep it flush.

One is to try cutting some of the Reflectix to just fit inside the window frames rather than over the frames. This might help prevent warm air from reaching the cold glass and condensing.

The other thing to try is this 3M window film insulator you can buy to temporarily put over the inside of the windows for the cold season to accomplish the same thing. The cab area is not particularly well-insulated, even with the windows covered.

We might find and sacrifice a nicer looking blanket to hang in its place. Darlene jokes that we should get one with the image of a fireplace on it — to inspire warm thoughts. Anyway, the results were immediately obvious.

Without the blanket in place, we watched a movie using the cab seats one evening in cold weather and always felt a cold draft even while the furnace ran frequently trying to keep up. Then afterwards, and on subsequent nights, we hung the blanket and found the gallery area stayed noticeably warmer and the furnace ran much left often.

In fact, in combination with the added window insulation, I found the bedroom area started around 69 F at 10 pm when we turned down the furnace to go to sleep. It took all night to reach about 53 F just before 6 am. The undercarriage temp fell to under 40 F that night. The image on the left above is one of the bedroom windows without any insulation.

The warmer green patch on the left is from the window screen. You can see from the scale on the left that the imager is seeing a difference of over 10 degrees Fahrenheit from the surrounding wall. The image on the right is after slipping in a sheet of Reflectix insulation material — quite the difference! And you can see and feel some cold air falling down below the insulation — hence the need for some magnets to make a better seal. The issue is that the top corners did not reach far enough to be looped over the doors on either side.

However, it is big enough to cover the windows entirely so we bought some super magnets and sewed them into a little pocket on each top corner. These magnets make good contact with the doors just above the windows and hold the cover in place. It already has magnets for the bottom corners. Most of the upgrades to improve insulation for cold winter weather see above are of course helpful for keeping out the heat in the summer.

Sliding Blinds for Cab Windows — The upgrade of mounting a complete set of sliding blinds to the front windshield and cab door windows is great for quickly blocking out the sun and some of the heat. Yes, you can place a reflective shield in front of the Remi blinds and yes, it does help a lot. We definitely observed this while in 95 degree weather in Death Valley. We also insulated the cab doors for noise and heat and I suspect that helps too — the cab area is the least insulated area of the RV.

As described above in insulating for winter , I added a couple of adhesive hooks and then put a pair of grommets into a heavy moving blanket to use as an insulating divider. I want to try insulating the cab roof area and see about hanging a pair of these blanket around the cab but behind the swiveled seats.

Interior Reflectix Window Covers — We actually carry Reflectix bubble insulation sheets cut for all the windows and the skylights. This is of course a bit more hassle to set up but it does mean keeping even more heat from even reaching the interior of the cab. While traveling in Death Valley in May 95 degree daytime highs , we kept the blackout blinds in the coach mostly closed during the day and used the privacy blinds.

When stopping somewhere for a while, we would point the back end of the RV towards where the sun was going to be, put the thick Reflectix in the windshield keeping the Reflectix sheets in the skylights , close the Remi blinds, fully close the shades on the sunny side, open the windows and partially open the blinds on the shaded side and set the two Fantastic Fans to run. This procedure was able to keep the temp inside a few degrees below the outside temperature for at least a couple of hours.

I would now add putting the Reflectix sheets into the sunny side windows. The forced air flow from the vents makes it feel cooler than the ambient temperature implies, though its not as free-flowing and cooling as being outside in the shade. All of this effort was experimenting with how long we could safely leave the vehicle with the cats inside while parked in such heat and sun.

Opening up the RV to the shaded side and making use of the simpler and redundant fans seems much safer. Our Kwikee retractable step started making a grinding noise when opening or closing and proceeded to get worse until it just seemed to grind endlessly. Looking this issue up on the web, I found that this is a fairly common issue. I found several different resources for how to deal with it.

See below. It was on my checklist of things to do, but I never did get around to it. Well, here we are at 20, miles and I recently noticed that the front tires are wearing heavily on the outside edge. Passenger side. Driver side. So getting two new tires for the front end now the rear dualies are looking fine plus getting that wheel alignment finally done!

The Traveling Cat Adventure Vehicle suffered some significant damage caused by the fall of a large redwood tree limb. Besides the roof and awning damage, the tree limb also struck and dented one of my thin, flexible solar panels. Some time ago, I also damaged one of the panels with a faulty adhesive installation.

So, this seemed like a good time to test whether either of these panels need to be replaced. I cleaned all six panels using this great waterless car wash spray and then set about isolating each pair of panels to test their relative response to the mid-day, mid-November sun.

The six panels are wired up in a parallel-series arrangement: three parallel sets of two panels in series, to boost the voltage rather than the amperage, making use of the original wiring which is turn connected to my Victron MPPT controller that then converts the voltage to an appropriate level for the battery.

Details on my installation here. One pair is the original W GoPower panels and the other four are the GreeSonic panels I added which have an arguably superior EFTE surface material and use efficient SunPower cells which are also known to perform well in overcast conditions.

The undamaged GreeSonic pair was producing as much as 7. So both GreeSonic pairs are really performing about the same. The other GoPower panel was only delivering 2. As for longevity, the original GoPower panels are probably about 4 years old while the GreeSonic panels are about 2. The Unity has been parked in full sun when not in use since I acquired it a little more than three years ago. I got the Unity back from the RV repair shop — they replaced the curved section of roof that was crushed and replaced the awning entirely.

I also had to reinstall the two GreeSonic panels that the RV repair facility removed. There are some serious issues to watch out for regarding whether your tire valve extensions will fail under the added stress. Still looking into it but it makes me wonder if it would be better to see about having the Mercedes OEM internal tire pressure sensors installed, if possible. The rear view mirror is pretty useless since you can only see the interior of the van with it.

I want to replace the existing two burner propane cooktop with an induction cooktop. Even better than working with natural gas or propane. And much more efficient use of energy: all of the energy goes into the pot, not into the air. Plus of course the electrical energy is replenishable from solar or via the alternator while driving to the next destination. May want to consider going with something smaller, like W, but that might be cutting it a bit close as almost nothing else could be running while maxing out the cooktop.

I may also want to look into adding an additional alternator and possibly the high idle option. The high idle option allows the Mercedes diesel engine to idle safely for extended periods and the additional alternator can allow recharging a large lithium battery pack in less than an hour, eliminating the need for a propane or diesel generator. My unit came with the propane generator but that would be a nice, big chunk of weight to get rid of. Might just be fine without the additional alternator or the generator.

Hi Chris, quick question for you: How did you remove the lower drawer in the bedroom to create the cat litter box access? Is there a release on the slider tracks somewhere, if you recall? I suggest pulling out the top drawer so you can look underneath with a flashlight and see the mechanism.

Good luck! Would I be able to replace the magnum standard inverter with another brand with ease, or would the controller have to be replaced as well? That might not be difficult though as perhaps you would just reuse the existing wiring. Hello Chris. We just bought a Unity IB and my do-it-yourself hubsand is pouring over all the items he can now tinker with so thanks for the great posts! Our RV did not come with leveling jacks, only stablizers.

My childhood memories of my parents comming to divorice blows over trying to level our camper each night has made me a bit worried for my own marriage, haha. I suggest giving it a try for a while without adding leveling jacks. But yes, I believe I have read of some folks adding leveling jacks. Chris Thanks for the quick response. We will give the manual levels some tries but thanks for the link to the Sprinter forum, lots of good information there.

Hope to see you on the road sometime…Carrizo Plain, its the best and no one goes there! Yeah, induction cooking is fantastic but you get frustrated whenever you have to cook with gas or gasp traditional electric somewhere! Hi Chris — saw your blog. Question on your RV grill hookup. I removed the regulator from my Volcano grill and connected to the external low pressure LP port. It lights, but a much smaller flame than when running off a propane tank.

Have you experienced that? Thinking I just need to drill out the orifice a little, but looking for input. That sounds strange. However, while I expect I tested the grill with a portable tank before doing the conversion, it would have been a brief test as I bought the grill specifically to use with the Unity. I talked to Volcano yesterday. Apparently their regulator delivers higher pressure than a typical RV connection. Just bought a UMB and somehow ended up on your website!

Love your fixes and upgrades. Nice of you to post all of that. Hi, Thanks for all the information here!

I have been looking for a before and after picture for a late model Sprinter, thanks for that. With the TriK-L-Start installation did you disable your solar system before installing it? Some people recommend physically covering the solar panels.

I would think turning off the power to the solar controller would be sufficient. Was it difficult to get the passenger seat off? In other words, I believe the solar controller would still have power. So, just cover the panels to be safe.

Thanks for sharing the tips. Upgrading in every sphere of life is necessary. Liquid RV Roof will give your caravan a new look at a fraction of cost or new roof.

With only a single coat and no primer needed it also saves labor and product cost. Glad to hear you may find this info useful! Good luck on your potential LTV Unity purchase! Thank you for all your sharing of valuable info. I also — after reading about your experience- replaced my Lead Acid batteries with a Starkpower lithium. It has worked well though the bluetooth info does not seem to be that accurate. I also noticed that their site is down and previous it showed that every item was out of stock.

I am hoping that they are not out of business though if the battery continues to work it seems like a moot point. I am also thinking that someday I will need to replace the stock shocks. Do you have any advice on what you will do when the time comes? I saw the Fox 2. This website is utterly fantastic! Thank you!! Maybe from somebody like Outside Van. After a test, there is no way it will come off without removing the paint :.

One tube will do 2 panels. No too bad to clean of old adhesive. Great information! Have you or anyone else out there thought about replacing the driver and passenger seats? With my long legs, I find them to be very uncomfortable while driving long distances. I would love to hear suggestions on replacing or adapting the seats. Jim, the passenger seat on the Sprinter can be converted to swivel horizontally to face the back.

LED light bulbs are replacing the old halogen units. Anyone know about this? The TV is gone, too. Wow Chris, what great advice. You talk about getting a bigger alternator and some of the challenges of alternators overheating. You might want to look at a newish technology called hairpin stator alternators. They reach max output at much lower RPM than brushless alternators and operate at greatly reduced temperature.

Also you can get huge amperage units like amps if you want to run a tig welder. Just so you know I have not bought one yet but will be doing so soon. Several friends have them and speak highly about them. DCPowerInc and Mechman are two manufacturers and will work with you on frame size etc. At the Seattle boat show I ran into a specialist out of Anacortes that does Li conversions for boaters and he says that placing a fan that blows air onto the back of the alternator is very effective.

He also promotes Hairpin Stator technology. My wife has a CatTrike Tadpole and I have a 2 wheel hybrid. I found you when I started researching racks. Thanks for your note and your suggestion. My upgraded solar and the existing alternator have been working fine.

Thanks again! Your website, and your improvements and descriptions are nothing short of amazing — thank you! I damaged the male terminals removing them from the switching box. I thought about a pull through — new cable attached to old cable — but cables are clearly secured as they run through the walls. Thanks, Jon. Oh, ouch, that sounds like a challenge.

I would be interested in hearing about it if you do manage to do it. Thanks for really quick reply. Fall back is to replace the terminal adapters. This is a very intense and time consuming process — you have to determine which wires go to which poles of the adapter using a multimeter. Best, Jon. Thanks for the very informative website. Are there any larger or second alternator add-ons available, with high idle kits, to obviate need of the generator?

Any thoughts about propane v. Yes, some folk have added a second alternator and high idle to the MB Sprinter that the Unity is based on. For us, we do just fine with the existing alternator and W of solar and have yet to ever need to use the generator or shore power. Just replaced the watch battery on each tire stem sensor originals lasted 2. Also carry a 12v tire pump by P. Auto Store on Amazon, along with 12v extension cord to reach rear tires with ease.

In fact, the more locks you put on your bike will just steer the thieves to cut off the bike rack itself. As a result, I never let my bike out of my sight—except for grocery shopping—which is a hassle. One time, I camped next to a guy who had a Sprinter van with a raised platform bed, and he showed me the aluminum slide out racks he made for his mountain bikes, and it was a really trick solution.

It seems to me that a compartment could be used as the platform for the corner bed model. How much are you spending on maintenance per year? I think the shower space works alright. On the other hand, I think the service interval is pretty long. Thanks for the response! How much clearance do you have above your head when you are in the shower? How are the Batteries and Refrigerator doing?

I have a Unity FX and just ordered the Stark ah batteries. Also have decided to change out the fridge because of my trip earlier through Death Valley degrees. The Dometic RMD could not keep up and ended up throwing food out.

I am looking at the same model you put in helps when someone has already done it! The batteries are doing great. Having the Ah of maintenance-free, quick-charging lithium has been nice. Also, I prefer the amount of fridge space provided by the Dometic over the Nova Kool. I have spent the last 20 years on boats; heading for 70yrs of age we decided to buy a LTV TB for instead of sailing; I converted my boat to lithium 1, Ahrs and lithium engine batteries Ahrs each it is a catamaran x2 the controllers needed for alternator to charge lithium are very different; Lithium batteries have no resistance so they suck the life out of any alternator which burst into flames in seconds; the problem is conventional regulators monitor voltage change which does not alter fast enough when there is a massive draw.

Thanks for your comment. Really appreciate sharing your knowledge. I have a MB based class C and have been trying to figure out a way to make the RV quieter while driving. I will definitely add sound deadening materials to the door like you did.

But I think much of the road noise comes from the rear wheel well. I was thinking about spraying Rustoleum bedliner spray into the wheel well. I would appreciate your thoughts on this. Rear wheel well noise, eh? Next week! Nice upgrades!

Did you end up getting rid of your generator? The alternator at idle provides 75ADC of charging which is really nice!

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