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collins-miter-clamps-harbor-freight-forward Posted February 17, These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. Far too often while ripping long boards, I notice the board collins miter clamps harbor freight forward in on itself. Getting your area ready to work can frreight a separate project. Now all I have to do is figure hatbor how to make it a little higher so I can see what am cutting. Cross-Cuts Whether you use a miter gauge or a cross-cut sled, the tablesaw is incredibly well-suited for cross-cuts.

By mtaylor , February 16, in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment. I bought one some time ago when it was on sale. It's a good tool but not a great one. Once the miter guage is calibrated, it cuts crisply and cleanly with no blade wobble. The vise holds the wood firmly. However, the miter gauge will need to be checked anytime it's moved to a new setting due to the slop in the mechanism. Below is a pic of mine with an attachment so can see where the blade is actually cutting.

It also provides a precise method ot put a small ruler to get repeatable cuts. Would I buy another one? For the money, it's a pretty good deal as long as you're aware of it's limitations.

I have also used one for some time, and as you say, very useful within its limitations - Even with a mitre box I find it difficult to get nice straight cuts for planks. This link takes you to an article in the MSD which shows some interesting modifcations. I saw that and added my mod based on it. I forgot to check the MSD when I was posting to see if the article was back. My bad In the old days, I calculated the angles trigonometrically and then used a 12" hundredths' ruler to lay out the angles and cut lines.

This was tedious at times. The precision required for a larger object, e. Hi, I still have this saw and it performs well. The only issue I experienced was when changing blades I did not put the support flange washers on correctly and it wobbled. Other than that does a grand Collins Miter Clamps Harbor Freight Number job of cutting straight - sharp blades are essential as with any saw.

I too have one and it does the job for me, but as Mike said, one has to be aware of its limitations. For me, I added an adjustable stop on the starboard side which allows repetitive cuts of the same length. Plus the real benefit is cutting brass and aluminum tubing. Steve bought mine in , 2 extra blades and ordered 2 fine tooth blades on-line. Works as good as when it was purchased. When I posted the saw way back it was met with a little disdain, and numerous suggestions of better saws available which were more expensive.

Love it, will soon by there scroll saw, and mini table saw and combo belt and disc sander. I can hear the groans now why these machines are cheap and aren't precise and etc. Fact is I am 70 will not be building scratch models of museum quality that take years to construct am happy with Harbor Freights cheap tools that serve my purpose and saves a lot of money.

Would recommend everything they sell for people that do not have deep pockets. I am a Happy Camper. I'm not particularly hung up on name brands. Often a less expensive tool can be very useful with minor modifications. Best Offer. Buy It Now. Classified Ads. Item Location see all. US Only. North America.

Delivery Options see all. Free International Shipping. Show only see all. Returns Accepted. Completed Items. Sold Items. Authorized Seller. Authenticity Guarantee. More refinements More refinements Shop by Type. See All - Shop by Type. Shop by Size. See All - Shop by Size. I use it on just about every Collins Miter Clamps Harbor Freight File project. It also has a flame paint job and as a result, it is probably the coolest tool in my shop. But given the current state of things, it would certainly be an interesting exercise to think about how we might otherwise accomplish some common tablesaw tasks.

And before you knuckle-dragging Neanderthals said with love start throwing rocks at me, I do realize there are hand tool equivalents for every tablesaw task. What tasks would you find hard to do without your tablesaw? Or maybe you have some obvious solutions that might benefit others. Nothing rips a board quite as easily and cleanly as a tablesaw. And nothing in the shop can launch a board into outer space with as much gusto as a tablesaw!

Consequently, Collins Miter Clamps Harbor Freight Code this is something I already use my bandsaw for. Far too often while ripping long boards, I notice the board cupping in on itself. At the bandsaw, the cutting force is applied downward into the table surface, so even if the wood warps and pinches the blade, it will NOT fly in your belly or face. The safety benefits here are unquestionable. But what about cut quality? Most bandsaw blades will leave a rough edge. The blade may also drift during the cut drawing your workpiece away from the fence.

Any thoughts on how we might overcome these two issues? For sheetgoods, look no further than the circular saw. Outfitted with a good quality blade and a nice clamping tool guide, you can make some seriously high quality rips in plywood. You could also take it to the next level and pick up a tracksaw! Whether you use a miter gauge or a cross-cut sled, the tablesaw is incredibly well-suited for cross-cuts.

But what else could we use? You might need to clean up the edge afterwards, but if you own a decent hand saw you probably also own a hand plane and a Collins Miter Clamps Harbor Freight Index shooting board. Of course the miter saw is a good alternative for cross-cutting narrower boards too.

A circular saw and a track or other guide could certainly be used for wider boards. The only reasonable substitute I can come up with for dados is the router. Even in a fully outfitted shop that includes a tablesaw, the router may very well be the preferred dado-maker.

But when you are making cabinets and you have a bunch of dados and grooves to batch out, is there anything faster than a dado stack in the tablesaw? I am really curious to hear your thoughts on dados and grooves. The tablesaw is my go-to tool for tenons. Even as the proud owner of a Festool Domino, I still tend to make my tenons with a dado stack and a miter gauge. A more basic alternative might be to simply use the router table.

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