%!$ Easy Diy Woodworking Bench Plans For You #!@

cheap-table-saws-at-harbor-freight-system Adding a fan a mains rated axial fan is fine dramatically improves haebor duty cycle on these units. First up are pipe sizes. My Dad told me about a local hardware store that makes up and sells Oregon chains. The cosmetic value would be at least comparable. There are also sixteen drawers, several storage shelves, and room for various other small machines.

Will ABS Sch 40 support the weight of an average person in a rectangular frame with a sex sling attached to steel eyebolts? Go to the formufit. I believe it was for their furniture grade pipe, not plumbing grade.

I have not tried this personally so you should test the fit in the store before buying to make sure it works. For Mother's day, bought my 90 year old mom a deluxe bird feeder because she really enjoys watching the birds from her window. Need to bury 7' above ground PVC to hold the bird feeder. Bought 10" length to allow for 3' hole. Bird feeder is not heavy and will have minimal stress. Which configuration would be more rigid and less susceptible to kinking? A pole made from a single piece of pvc pipe, or a pole of the same length made from two short pieces of pvc pipe joined by a straight coupling?

And if the 2 piece pole is stronger, would 3 or more pieces be even better? I want to make curtain rods out of PVC pipe 1''. The PVC pipe will be 1m60cm in length and will have to support two blackout curtains heavy ones of width 1m50cm and length 2m. Will the PVC pipe of 1''be appropriate. I could not find larger than that here. You meentioned about cutting the pipe shorter for the correct length. Is this for the outside length or inside? I want to start a project that the inside should be 48" wide.

Should the pipe be say 2" longer because both ends will be in an elbow or a tee, to hold the inside measurement of 48"? Your article was very helpful. So it is hard to do stuff that has end caps on both ends of the pipe.

Reply 5 years ago. You could use a combination of obtuse angles to create an angle greater than degrees. It wouldn't look very good, but it could work. Just a thought. Buy a T-fitting and cut out the middle.

Heat gun and bend it closed w a drop of PVC glue? Introduction: PVC By trevormates Follow. More by the author:. I did have a lot of great information in that Instructable that people asked me about in relation to methods of cutting, joining PVC and some great PVC resources. Check it out here. There have been some other Instructables out there that have identified some basics, such as cutting and painting PVC, but I thought it best that I try to aggregate some of the ideas into one big, ultimate Instructable: PVC And since PVC is the ultimate make-anything-toy-set for adults, I only thought it wise to share my experience and knowledge of it on Instructables.

Let face it. PVC is awesome. There are tons of PVC-based step-by-steps available out on Instructables. Search for one and I bet there is something you will want to make. So if you are new to PVC, or if you are a constant user like me, please peruse. First up are pipe sizes. Pipe size can do a number of things to your project, depending upon your needs. The smaller you go, the more flexible your pipe will be.

So if you need curved surfaces for a frame, need hoops or loops, go small. If you want stiffness and strength to the max, go big. As the pipes increase in size, so does their inner wall, making them stronger and more inflexible. It can actually kink when bent. This works well for kites and other light structures, but not so much for something you want to mount anything to.

This is also good if you need elasticity in your project, as it will spring back perfectly be careful though! Marshmallows fit in them nice and snug. This is perfect for framing, structure, and anything else you might need to build a strong sturdy platform, shelf, table or wall with.

It still has SOME flexibility, but not much. It is very heavy and very expensive in relation to other just as strong sizes. It also works well for canister-style projects in conjunction with end caps , like garbage bag holders, etc. Fittings and Connectors are what brings everything in a PVC project together. And with so many types, the connection formats are endless. They perform their task admirably, for basic construction of PVC assemblies.

You can find these at your local Home Depot, Lowes or other hardware store. They are usually made by Nibco www. Furniture Grade: Furniture grade fittings are where the magic happens; they are what make PVC the tinker-toy system that it can be. While you can get basic Tees and 3-Way fittings from your Home Depot and Lowes, furniture grade fittings expand upon the basic idea, and add 4-Way and 5-Way fittings, fancy end caps, hinge elements and even caster inserts to put wheels on your project.

In my previous post I recommended a store online called Formufit www. In fact, a lot of the tips I explain in this Instructable, I borrowed from their website. Whichever fitting type you choose you can find most of what you need either at HD, Lowes or Formufit, or you can also check eBay.

To work with PVC, there are some serious warnings that need Cheap Table Saws For Sale Uk Uk to be understood. PVC is fun and easy to work with, but does have some affairs that go along with it that you should be aware about.

Elasticity: OK, this is obvious, but needs mentioning. Once a PVC pipe is bent it will attempt to go back to its original shape straight and try to do it quite quickly. In fact, PVC is made from the same vinyl products that other plastic items are made out of. PVC can be somewhat dangerous in other forms though, specifically when it is melted. Still in the grand scheme of things, there is a lot less to go wrong with a transformer than an inverter, and a gen 1 unit is bound to have bugs to be worked out.

At home ive got 2 stick inverters among many other machines, an 80 amp and amp. Its v and runs scratch start TIG on sheet metal now days, so much so that the hot start on stick mode doesnt work at all anymore. For the money, that amp runs smoother than either the Bobcat or Shopmaster I have at work. The Bobcat has since become a powersource for the amp inverter. In the 70s and 80s darning with MIG was an essential skill because of the crap steel in British cars.

Perhaps he means the technique where you lay the wire across the gap, then press the trigger, then repeat, so that you build up a weave of wire onto which you can paint a layer of underseal paint to fool the MOT tester. Works fairly well on the inaccessible top surface of land-rover chassis Is this wire mesh process really less work than inserting and more or less tack welding a piece of sheet metal?

The cosmetic value would be at least comparable. Like this? Great if you have access to that kind of power, but most hobbyists do not. The ones that ARE v are usually quite expensive comparitively. Not really. One advantage of these little inverters is their portability. I bought one so that I had a welder that I could carry in a motorcycle pannier.

A heavier machine might still be in your garage. They carry a portable hearth, and a load of rivets. But in my case the reason is for sure my hardly existing experience in welding.

I have way more practice with the soldering iron. I disagree. I am not concerned with the tidiness of the bead, more the strength of the weld. Ground out almost as much metal as was in the finished weld. Passed radiograph and physical properties, including Charpy, though. Nothing in most codes prohibits grinding during a qualification test…. They needed the work done, and need welders to do it.

More than bar of pressure? I used to work in a lab that was able to set up any triaxial stress in to a tubular specimen. By a combination of tensile and torsional forces for two of the axes, and then differential internal and external pressures for the through-thickness and circumfrential stress.

I recall seeing the spare hydraulic lines, 18mm OD, 3mm bore or thereabouts. Martin: The job was parts for a very high pressure boiler. Material strength is derated due to temperature and the pressure is very high. Ground flat to see what the weld looks like underneath. My dad taught me to do that, because a good beat on top can conceal all manner of nasties underneath.

You may want to do a cut and etch test, too, to see the depth of penetration. Quite frankly inverter make welding easy, as long as the weld is flat anybody with two good hands and common sense can weld correctly following polarity and current advice.

I just went through this. Worth every penny. I wrote a blurb about it on my site, along with the results of its work my recumbent trike if anyone wants a link and some comments about it. Duty cycle? A few more dollars increases the quality some. Later this year, probably. Once the trike is built, it will have two cargo boxes in the back, one of which will have plenty of room for a welder. Neat to see and read other than your wife… hope she heals whatever the issue. Start with healthy inputs that are real ag for starters and be critical with specialists is about the best advice from my experience.

I was just at the farm yesterday thinking about my recumbent trike that is a tandem, cargo and racing somewhat style though to haul more in saddle bags in the rear design that I wanted to be able to have a goal of mounting a certain size mountain bike frame to I have a Mongoose Black Diamond Double.

Ditto on the Aldis in the U. I was in one a few days ago. As ever, the goody isle had nothing spectacular. Mostly the usual laundry hampers and ironing boards, and blankets. A few desk sets pen and scissors and some boost pack batteries for cell phones. Been having that function fail ever since the site changed to akismet. The non-food offerings are time limited and cycle through. Of course not.

But would you like a curd or cheese based beverage? Probably not, although with some spices this is a perfect base for a spread. So the comparison is a little off With practice you can lay down a pretty nice looking weld, and it will actually have some penetration unlike the cheap-o flux-core welder in the same price range.

Granted, doing sheet metal is pretty hard, eventually I lucked onto a flux-core unit for that. I hate cleaning up that spatter though, I much prefer chipping the scale off of the stick welds to see how much I have to grind off, hee hee. Two points to watch out for with the cheap Chinese units is parts availability and duty cycle.

Many of these units are clones of each other and if you are lucky, parts substitutions are possible, and even upgrades are possible with spare parts from a higher spec unit customers were always happy with that one when our replacements were higher rated with the full board worth of MOSFETs and stuff populated : BUT many machines have subtle differences that can make spare parts hard to find or even render a unit scrap if none are available.

I counted something like 20 different variations come across my bench…. Then there is duty cycle. This is expressed as a percentage of minutes the unit can run over a 10 minute period. And if you are in a production environment, the initial increased cost of the better unit is more than saved by not having to waste time standing around waiting for the cheap welder to cool down….

Adding a higher rated board has the expected increase in output capability. Firmware would sometimes still limit the upper curent limit, but the duty cycle was increased along with the reliability due to parts sharing the load and not being run so close to their limits.

One trick I used to see on-site was the guys using the machines would remove a side panel and put a shop fan right next to the welder.

Adding a fan a mains rated axial fan is fine dramatically improves the duty cycle on these units. Are heat pipes used in any systems? Is this thinking correct? I never saw heatpipes being used, but watercooling is a thing. Not as common as aircooled due to cost and complexity though. This probably doesn't matter if you are using it in a pretty limited fashion. If you are new to saws this won't make a difference, because we have all screwed up a saw learning the ropes.

Sooner or later you will be out a carb or a cylinder or a bar. These sound like they are pretty good, certainly not markedly dangerous. My only piece of free advice worth less than half what you pay for it is that using a 90cc saw or bigger is frankly nuts unless you are using saws enough to make the real deal worth it.

The third ingredient in good industrially made, commercially sold tools is quality control. Walt Chase. I have always been a buy once cry once kinda person.

I buy the very best quality I can afford. I have a Stihl chainsaw I have owned and used continuously since It has had a hard life and the only problem it has ever been in the shop for was a clogged muffler which I didn't realize at the time could be a "thing",only ONE spark plug replacement and of course the usual wear parts like bars and chains.

I've used chainsaws so much at work to the point of wearing them out and them being more costly to repair than to replace. I can't and won't speak to the clones, but for my money I would get the Stihl. Dale Hodgins. If you go out to where the commercial fallers are working, in North America, Europe Africa or South America, there are two main types of saws that will be seen.

Stihl and Husqvarna. It's about the same at Quality Rental shops. Occasionally you'll see some other brand when a brand new rental shop opens up.

But if they last a few years and get some money, they start renting out better equipment. I have known dozens of people who've used chainsaws commercially, and I don't know any who stray outside of those two brands.

I'm a big fan of cordless electric equipment. My best quality items are my longreach Stihl chainsaw and hedge cutter. It was a bit of an expense when I bought them, but then I paid for them in the first week. Greenworks and Earthwise make a crappy version of the same thing. I know a landscaper who tried both and both were finished within a year, with slower production. He was saving money. Timothy Markus. Hi Devin, thanks for the post.

It seems that most of the responses are people saying stick to the name brands, which is a bit of a surprise to me. I also like the name brands but I'm not a fanboy of any of them. I know that they are good quality, but I've also found good quality tools in other brands. Like you, I've usually found the name brands give the best return but that's not always the case.

I used to work with a bunch of maintenance guys who all bought Snap-On tools. Every week the Snap-On guy would come and the guys would get giddy, then go in and not only spend their tool allowance, but often a large part of their paycheck. One of the guys had a wife who worked at Canadian Tire.

I worked there for a couple of years and there was no discernible difference between the two brands, except that the Snap-On tools were times more than the CT brand.

To top it off, one of the guys had a Snap-On socket wrench break. When he took it to Snap-On, they told him that the tool was 25 years old and that the lifetime for a socket wrench was 20 years, so he was out of luck. He switched to Canadian Tire after that! Like you, I know it's usually best to buy the best tools, but I don't become blind to cost effectiveness. I'm going to be getting a chainsaw soon and I've been worried about the price.

I'm going to give these a shot, when I get there, because I'll be stretching my money as much as possible on start-up. If I got a season out of one, I'd be happy because it will have allowed me to get through a year, allow me to save for a better one, and give me time to look for used. If it's still working fine, I'll probably buy another as a spare. I think that these could be great for casual users or to get started on a budget. If the reviews are accurate, and there's no question to me that the reviewer is much, much more experienced with chainsaws, these saws will probably hold up just fine for years.

I've used an Echo chainsaw an off-brand here in Canada and it was crap, total crap. We used it for two days before buying a Stihl again, so I understand why some people won't give other brands a chance, but I also burnt out TWO Milwaukee 10" circular saws in very short order.

I'm usually happy with their tools, but they shit the bed with that one. So, if name brands can have lemons, off brands can have diamonds, especially if they rip off the design.

A piece of land is worth as much as the person farming it. Cristo Balete. For what it's worth, I started out buying middle-of-the-road tools thinking I wasn't in an extreme situation. None of them, not one lasted more than years that were used regularly generator, water pump , chainsaws, tillers, mowers, ATV and were so frustrating to start, caused endless frustration and loss of time trying to tweak them into working.

I was exhausted, had wasted a lot of valuable time, which is in short supply during spring and the growing season, and just before a storm. If the companies are new it's often difficult to get the right parts, like chains, belts, etc. I had a water pump that I pumped out of the pond with, that went through gasoline like crazy.

My quality water pump and lawn mower go for about twice as long on gasoline as the others. It's the energy we have to spend making them run that leaves us exhausted, or not, at the end of the day. I felt like roadkill after using my crummy lawn mower. I feel just great after using my quality commercial lawn mower for sometimes 5 hours in a day in the springtime. The other thing about a chainsaw is how easy is it to start years down the road?

I use mine maybe twice a year now that things have been basically gotten under control. So it's going to sit maybe for months. That's where the rubber hits the road. My chainsaw has a special pressure button that makes the starting easier, made by a company that's been making chainsaws since Until a tool company gets an extremely good reputation that is independently confirmed, after at least years, we'll end up buying two of the cheaper ones, and that equals one of the quality ones.

The established quality tools are reliable, you know going out in the morning it will start, it will work all day, it will make it easier than anything used previously, and it will save money in the long run.

First of all, much most? Ships use the worst possible 'diese'l on the planet because it isn't useful for most other applications. I've never heard ship fuel referred to as diesel, only fuel oil or heavy fuel oil. It's so viscous that it has to be heated to flow. I would also expect that an ocean freighter, for all the fuel it uses, is one of the most fuel efficient ways to move goods. I would say that most products have a downside, but I think that the way I use the products more than makes up for the cost to the environment in the medium term, let alone the long term.

I'll make up for it pretty soon. Being able to buy less expensive items from China allows a lot of us to do what we do.

I'd love it if everything I need could be bought in my country for the same price, but many things you can't even get here. I'm also not sure what the point of driving an electric vehicle is. It costs more energy to produce than a diesel vehicle and I'm not convinced that you can make up for that over the life of the vehicle.

TJ, thank you for the advice and the comment. Yes I am planning to mill, which is why I am looking at such a big saw. Though the company does offer much smaller saws as well. I have a decent amount of timber on my property that I plan to fell Sawstop Contractor Table Saw Youtube and mill. Rather than an Alaskan mill I am looking at the Norwood mill, which is a bit of a compromise between a bandsaw mill and a chainsaw mill.

Would I prefer a bandsaw mill, yes I would. Can I afford one, sadly not. Is there folks that could bring one to my site, probably. But to rent a mill I would be stuck rushing to maximize the mill while it is there, etc.. While if I have chainsaw mill, I can work at my own pace, with less of a rushed feel. And the chainsaw mill would likely still be the cheaper option. For my house I will need to mill well over posts and beams for the timberframe construction I am planning.

Many of the posts will be 5 sided rather than the typical 4 due to a hexagon shape I am using for my home. It is also going to be a wofati ish earthshelter, but rather than round wood , I am going to square the timbers that will make up the walls and roof. This means 's of more logs to mill to fill those spaces. So having the ability to mill affordably is pretty important to me. Now the bar suggestion you made, yes! I will be using a longer bar, " I will be looking into which. I also very likely will use a more name brand bar and chain rather than the ones they sell on the Farmtec site.

Since the bar and chain get so much wear. I have been eyeing the Oregon bars, even for my Stihl saws, or I guess just saw now I am down to 1 Stihl. I have heard a lot of praise for the Oregon bars from professional loggers. I am from WA state, and have talked with plenty of loggers as well as just seen what they have on their saws. Again thanks for your constructive advice and comment. Thank you for your comment.

I generally believe in you get what you pay for, and to spend on quality over quick and cheap. When I first saw these saws, I thought they were just going to be junk. But was amazed how over and over positive and realistic reviews were being given by people who really know saws.

Did they claim they were better, or exactly the same? No, but they do claim they are decent and with a few replacements of simple parts are close to the name brands they are clones of. That is some pretty high praise I feel. Which is what got me thinking seriously about them. Funny thing about name brand vs cheaper. I have a Yamaha generator that has been nothing but trouble for me, but the Generac back up I have has out performed the Yamaha.

Go figure the lower cost less name brand does a better job. I have also heard praise for Champion generators, though no personal experience with them, from people who bought them as just a cheap get by till can afford better.

But they found they didn't need to get "better", or did get "better" but went back the the Champion due it actually being better than the bigger name brand.

Back on saws, I have also been hearing rumblings and muttering from long time Stihl users that the newer Stihl quality has been going down though not the commercial professional grades. Here is one such video explain his decision, though he seems to be oddly happy with Echo, so go figure.

Devin as far as your chainsaw mill. Cristo Balete, That is a valid concern and one that is worthy of consideration for anything. Timothy covered most of what I would have responded.

So I don't need to repeat that. I would say if these were just complete junk, like most Harbor Freight stuff, this consideration and the issue of landfill waste would be a top concern. But from all accounts these are not junk just cheap. But your comment about being aware of the environmental cost of travel is a good and valid point to keep in mind. Though as Timothy mentioned, sadly most things tend to be imported.

It is hard to find actual made in the US or Canada, etc Even stuff that claims to be made in country often is just assembled in the country and the parts come from China or elsewhere.

Personally I don't even like to have the need to use a chainsaw. I did trail maintenance in the Cascades, and actually know how to use a cross cut saw, and have some.

But the time and effort to use those vs the chainsaw, just doesn't make the human powered a reasonable option. I am living in a crappy travel trailer until I build a house.

I need the chainsaw to build the house. After I might opt for the cross cut saw to do the majority of my timber felling. Since then I wont be in a hurry to have shelter to live in. I appreciate your comment, I know if I had not research bandsaw mills I would really be looking into them after that comment. Both Woodmizer and Timberking were on my original wish list before even buying land.

However Norwood slowly kept creeping up the list due to lower cost, and the ability to add upgrades rather than having to sell then buy a full machine with the new upgrade. If I were to buy a band saw mill for homestead use, I would opt for a Norwood it fits the bill for the hobbyist milling needs of a homestead best. If I were planning to make a business of milling I would opt for Woodmizer or Timberking, though personally I don't like Timberking's business practice and advertising so would likely not opt for them.

Yes chainsaw milling is hard on the person as well as the saw. Which is why I have said, if I get a Hulz saw and it can last through the milling I will be impressed. It is also why I would opt for the larget saw, as well as likely get a good quality bar and chain to put on the saw.

The hard on the person is why I am looking at the Norwood chainsaw mill, which mounts the chainsaw on a track system rather than the person having to hold the saw and push the saw through the log unassisted. It is still harder than a good bandsaw mill but less back breaking.

It is a compromise for sure, but the benefit over the standard chainsaw mill is great. Believe me, I have not been going into this lightly with no research. I have been working hard researching and trying to figure out how to get the best bang for the buck.

If I had deeper pockets I would have definitely sprung for the bandsaw mill. It just has become a matter of needing the milling done sooner than later. I need to get started on building my house, and get out of the temporary trailer living.

I'm looking at a similar use, Devon. I'm thinking of buying some wooded land and running pigs and chickens through it as I clear it for building materials and firewood. I'd like to start as cheaply as possible and then upgrade when I can. If the activity warrants it, you can always justify upgrading, but if I'm looking at a chainsaw mill or no mill, I'll take the chainsaw.

I would hope I can get a Woodmizer before long, but I also know that business doesn't always develop the way you want and, if another enterprise turns out to be very profitable , I'll be happy to putter along with a chainsaw mill. Timothy, you might want to check out Norwood, I am pretty sure they are a Canadian own company.

Yeah, they're only hours from me. I did a lot of houses up in their area the last couple of years. If I can find something local or in Maine, that's used I'd probably go for that. The other thing I've started doing in the last 3 years or so is buying top of the line equipment that's refurbished. This not only gives me quality equipment, but it's as local as I can make it, and I didn't create the need for it in the first place.

I can tell them that I am looking for something or will be in the market for something in the next year, and let me know if something comes in.

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