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All blades are made from high carbon steel alloy and are easy to hone and maintain a fine cutting edge. The Marking Knife How To Use 5g handle features our classic design in finely turned wood with a stainless steel insert, knurled ferrule and blade support. The wallet is hand crafted in the USA from a premium waxed canvas with a foam backed suede interior for maximum protection of your blades.
As a special, one time only introductory offer, we have put together a starter package consisting of five of the most often used marking blades, three collets to hold and support the blades, a handle turned from your choice of different woods and a ferrule in either natural stainless or coated with a black ceramic coating.
If you order your Marking Knife System by August 10th you will receive introductory pricing and the special wallet for no extra charge! Go to our website now for complete details and ordering options: Marking Knife System. Be sure to check out our other new products including the 4 x 6 inch Adjustable Square as featured in the August issue of Popular Woodworking Magazine and the newly released 7-inch Sliding Bevel ; one of the finest bevels available today.
We hope to see you at Woodworking in America September 16th. This is one of the premiere woodworking events in the United States and an amazing opportunity to take classes, talk with experts and buy from the top tool making companies of today. December 14, 61 Comments. Continue Reading. March 25, Sometimes even the best laid plans take time to come to fruition. Such is the case with our new squares. I have been working on them at a slow pace […].
January 30, 2 Comments. Everyone needs a Sloyd knife in their shop. First a little background. They have flattened sides for a firm, comfortable grip and to prevent rolling on the bench. The Joiner's Knife has a 2 inch long blade and an overall length of 6 inches. The photograph also shows the leather sheath which you can wear on your belt around the shop so that you can always have the knives at hand. The sheath fits either knife.
The knives come fully sharpened and are ready to use right out of the box. I've tried to show the cutting edge in the following picture so you can get an idea of the sharpness of the knives.
Knives like these have many uses around the shop. The Joiner's Knife can be used to scribe marks for joinery instead of using a pencil. The longer blade on the Sloyd knife can reach into hard to reach places like marking out a large dovetail joint. I was able to use the knives in a recent project in my shop. I needed to make a sliding tapered dovetail and this was the perfect tool to score the pencil layout lines and define the shoulders of the tapered tail for the dovetail.
My tapered dovetail was based upon a design by Simon Marking Knife Sheath Model James, as defined in his book Working Wood 3. I built his jig shown below to use as a guide for creating the sloped sides of the dovetail. The starting point of the tail is the layout and scoring of the sides of an initial dado, which was the perfect use for the Joiner's Knife.
James's sliding dovetail has a straight edge at the top and a tapered bottom so the pinboard will slowly rise into the joint and fit snug as it's tapped together. The layout is shown below drawn in pencil. This is followed up by scoring the lines with a knife to define the edges of the 'tail.
The lower edge is defined by the amount of taper from the pin on the pinboard. Note: There is a technique he uses to angle the combination square that I'm not showing here. I used the Joiner's Knife to score the lines and a chisel to pare down to the line at a slight angle to create a first-degree cut.
James says to continue using a knife to score the line to deepen the cut rather than a chisel. The bevel of the chisel will cause the edge to move backward and he 'guarantees' that the final tail opening will be too wide. The Joiner's Knife was very comfortable to use here and gave me a very clean cut. As I pared away more material, the knife easily cleaned up any small pieces left behind and deepened the score for subsequent chisel cuts.
I was able to achieve a very clean cut using this technique. I won't go into all of the other details about making this joint but suffice it to say that I continued this process around the perimeter of the dado using the Joiner's Knife to define and clean up the cuts.
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