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woodturning-supplies-south-africa Ebonizing wood is a process of altering inexpensive, available wood and making it appear like an expensive, exotic ebony. It has a medium su;plies, glues well, and has good working properties. All Rights Reserved. Ebonized wood can be created with a chemically reactive process or other means to color the wood black, like ebony, while still allowing woodturning supplies south africa wood grain to show through. Unbranded 43 Items

It is the heartwood of the ebony tree that contains the famous jet black dense wood fiber. The sapwood around the heartwood of the ebony is very light tan or pinkish in color.

Ebony is highly prized for its characteristic solid black color and density. Because of its popularity, ebony is harvested heavily within its growing regions. Also, because of the high demand for ebony and massive production, ebony quality has diminished. It is common to find ebony with lighter colored veins and not necessarily solid jet black in appearance.

The high demand combined with diminishing quality makes ebony a very high priced wood to turn into shavings on the lathe. Dollars per board foot. So, why ebonize wood? To achieve the look of ebony, we can colorize a lesser expensive and more available wood to make it appear jet black like ebony. Yes, ebonized wood is not the same quality or density as genuine ebony. However, ebonizing wood is affordable and much more practical.

Any wood can be ebonized and made to look black. However, if we only use the iron acetate method, which we will discuss more in a minute, we need wood with a high tannin content to achieve a rich black color. Woods with lower tannin content will not respond well to the iron acetate process, but we can encourage them to be more responsive.

In addition, we will cover additional ebonizing techniques that will work for most any species of wood. The surface of the wood needs to be prepared for the process.

If you are turning a bowl, the surface needs to be completely turned and sanded. Sand the wood surface up to, but not past grit sandpaper. The reason to stop at is higher grit sandpapers will potentially burnish the wood surface and make it more difficult for the ebonizing processes to penetrate the surface. We want the ebonizing process to meld with the grain and fibers of the wood and make the wood appear as if it is black from the fibers up.

But we want the wood to appear as if it has been jet black ebony all along. Additional sanding can be done later after the ebonizing is complete and your finishing coats are applied. Curious about how to best sand your wood bowls? Read this article next.

For many years woodworkers have used iron acetate to darken the wood. Iron acetate reacts to tannins in the wood to make a chemical reaction within the wood cells. We only need a couple of ingredients to make iron acetate, steel wool, and cleaning grade vinegar.

You will need to use a plastic container, not a glass container to hold the vinegar and steel wool. A plastic container with a screw-on lid will work well. Next, you will need to clean the steel wool. I recommend using steel wool because it is finer and has more surface area. All steel wool is coated with a thin layer of oil.

Remove the oil by washing the steel wool with dish soap or a degreasing soap. I washed the steel wool like I use washing my hands, letting the running water thoroughly rinse away any soap or detergent. Place a handful of cleaned steel wool in the plastic container and pour in enough vinegar to thoroughly cover the wool.

The steel wool needs to stay submerged. Use a rock, stick, or straw to keep the wool at the bottom of the container.

If the wool floats or is sticking out of the vinegar, it will oxidize and rust. Use a coffee filter or paper towel to strain the iron acetate, and now the solution is ready for application. Also, wear protective gloves. I made the mistake of not wearing gloves and apparently I have tannin in me, as my fingertips turned black. The surface of the wood will begin to darken once the solution is applied.

The more tannins that are present in the wood, the quicker and darker the wood will change. After five to ten minutes, wipe any standing liquid or wet areas off the wood surface.

The chemical reaction will continue within the wood fibers. Species like maple or pine may have little effect with just a single application of iron acetate. The iron acetate ebonizing wood technique usually makes low tannin woods gray or look aged. However, to make low tannin wood ebony black with iron acetate, we have to add supplemental tannins. The easiest way to add tannin is by making tea.

You can use regular tea bags, in a large amount, or you can use an exotic tea called quebracho, which is loaded with tannin. While it is effective at delivering tannin, it is not cheap. If you use regular black tea, you will need about tea bags brewed in one cup of hot water. You might not even want to look directly into the cup. While turmeric makes a visible yellow liquid, the results seem interesting. I mixed one tablespoon of ground turmeric foundd in the spice section of the grocery store with one cup of hot water.

The obvious yellow color boost from the turmeric may or may not be desirable, but it is interesting how it subtly warmed the iron acetate effect on oak. Apply a coat of the tannin tea solution and let it soak in for a few minutes, then apply the iron acetate, while the wood is still wet from the tannin tea. All woods will act differently, and even the same wood species can react differently based on numerous factors like temperature, humidity, and the moisture content in the wood. Again, multiple layers usually increase the darkness of the wood so reapply alternating layers of iron acetate and tannin booster.

Let them soak for a few minutes and wipe the wood dry. I have to admit, using the iron acetate solution feels like performing a magic trick, when it works. Coaxing the wood fibers to alter their appearance seems like a natural and acceptable phenomenon.

Does it matter how we get to that state? Dyes, in general usually do a good job of coloring side grain, while stains penetrate well into the wood end grain. It is possible to use a two-step process of applying a layer of stain and then dye to achieve a beautifully rich and evenly covered ebony wood surface. Two products can be used to create this one-two ebonizing technique, Solar-Lux Jet Black Dye which, unfortunately, appears to have been discontinued and Old Masters Wiping Stain.

Then wipe on a coat of the wiping stain, let it sit and wipe off the excess stain. Follow the directions on the package. For an even quicker process, leather dye is formulated to make a nice thick color coat with one application on leather and does a decent job with wood as well.

Black leather dye is available in an easy to use foam applicator top as well, bonus. Simply press down and blot the leather dye onto the surface of the wood. The longevity of the dye on the wood surface is an issue. Most leather dyes are not lightfast and will fade in UV light. Also, you may need to work to get the leather dye to penetrate down into the pores of more coarse wood fibers. A huge problem with leather dye is that is it not as stable as the black dye and wiping stain and can mix or blend into your finish clear topcoat.

Mixing with the final topcoat could be a problem, but that can be solved by applying a layer of shellac over the leather dye before the final topcoat. OK, so you thought the leather dye process was super fast and straight forward? Get ready for this one. See, what did I tell you? You want to use Speedball brand India Ink because it is made specifically for artwork. You want to use Speedball India Ink not just because your wood turned bowl is a piece of art, but also because of the inks formulation.

It is archival grade and meant to last for a very long time. And the best part, Speedball India ink is mixed with shellac. Added shellac means the ink seals and binds to the wood surface. The ink will not mix with your final clear topcoat finish of lacquer, poly, or whatever finish you decide to use. You may carefully pour the ink directly on the surface of the wood or pour it into a cup and use a brush to apply.

A small amount of ink goes a long way. Pour out a small amount at first and see how far it spreads before pouring a more substantial amount. Apply a nice thin layer across the whole surface. Let the ink soak in and dry thoroughly before applying any finish coats. I also discovered the applying ink to a thin turned bowl may result in ink bleeding through the end-grain.

Originally, I thought I would leave this bowl natural inside and ebonized on the outside. But when the ink bled through a bit, I made the whole thing ebonized.

Knowing the ink can bleed through, it makes sense to seal the bowl surface before applying the ink. This can be done with a thin coat of shellac. If you ever watched any episodes of Mythbusters, you know they always save the best experiments for last, even when they might have already proven a point. I think we now have several ways for ebonizing wood under our belt, but wait, what if we also try FIRE??!!

The process of Shou Sugi Ban includes burning wood board surfaces with a powerful torch, extinguishing any flames, then wire-brushing off the loose charred material. Cedar siding treated with fire has a distinct black appearance and is water and insect resistant.

Homes built with Shou Sugi Ban siding can have a very contemporary elegant appearance. The process of torching a wood bowl can be done with a small handheld torch or over an open fire. A small torch offers the best control, but the open fire is so much more ceremonial, especially when the fire is created with bowl blank scraps.

Burning a bowl interior and exterior might be a bit too much. My goal for this bowl is to have a wide charred rim and a turned-out half-spherical center bowl with exposed natural grain.

I turned the bowl entirely and started a small area where the center bowl is set, but I did not remove all the center area until after the charring. The tenon is still attached because I will need to return the bowl to the lathe to turn out the middle.

Also, I will use the tenon to attach a wire to hang the bowl over the fire. By the way, if the wood contains moisture it can crack or warp dramatically. It all depends on the results you desire. With the bowl hanging over the fire, it only takes a few minutes before the whole piece catches fire. Dip the flaming bowl in the water to put the fire out.

Let it cool and use a stiff-bristled wire brush to remove all the charred surface from the wood. Now you can return to the lathe to turn away and reveal the wood grain in the middle bowl portion. Linseed oil or Danish oil finish works well for charred wood as it penetrates into and through the burnt surface. Surprisingly with a little brushing and the Woodworking Power Tools For Sale In South Africa Australia linseed oil finish, nothing comes off on your hands while handling the fired bowl.

The lacquer makes a beautiful high-gloss jet black finish. Unlike all the other ebonizing wood techniques, burning the wood surface with flames causes a physical change in the wood. Again, each wood will act differently. Eile ama abre una oportunidad joven de escuchar otze rsch und jede eutschsex sin este ornofilm sobre ellos todo el tiempo que puedas, cuando mujeres como lmahdy no aceptan el status quo.

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