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wood-work-with-resin This is one fantastic write-up and I would love to have a go, but the cost of the stabilizing solution is very very expensive here in wiht UK. Also, make sure that the objects that you are using for mixing are clean for the same reason. Recent concerns about the health and environmental effects of metallic wood preservatives have created a market interest in non-metallic wood preservatives such as propiconazole - tebuconazole - imidacloprid better known as PTI. Now, i usually try to stay away from recommending specialized equipment, but for this, its necessary: 1. Very often epoxy resin is used not least for aesthetic reasons that needs to be transparent and crystal clear. While wood in contact with soil wood work with resin generally decompose more quickly than wood wood work with resin in contact with it, it is possible that the predominantly wihh soils prevalent in Vietnam provide a degree of mechanical protection against insect attack, which compensates for the accelerated wood work with resin of decay. It is permitted for use in various industrial and public works, such as bridges, highway safety fencing, electric power transmission and telecommunications poles.

Sealing kitchen work surfaces, wooden flooring, or any other application is also possible with it. As you can see, application possibilities are endless. After the wood has been prepared according to Step 1 and the resin mixture has been stirred, you are ready to begin.

The greatest challenge lies in the fluidity of the material: as long as the resin has not cured, it quite quickly flows wherever it can. Old weathered pieces of wood, boards eaten by woodworms, or gnarled pieces of wood with knots are typically not of interest to carpenters. For artistic use, however, this wood is perfect for filling with resin. You can seal these types of holes with tape or use silicone sealant which can easily be removed later. Now you can fill the cavities with the resin mixtures.

It is worthwhile here to color the resin so there is a contrast between the color of the resin and the color of the wood in the filled areas. Dyes or Paints that glow in the dark or under a black light are also exciting possibilities.

After the resin cures, you have to sand the epoxy surface. Beautiful pieces of wood can be completely cast in resin. Pieces of wood with a vivid grain or fine burling are ideal. For example, you can make epoxy jewelry , use the piece of wood for turning , or create a decorative piece.

There are two possible options for this application:. Make a casting mold yourself. For this process, use resin-coated panels that you seal with silicone caulking and then sprayed with silicone oil.

Resin can be used when it is transparent , but it can also easily be colored. There is a myriad of possibilities, such as transparent colors, metallic effects, or opaque liquid colors. The following paints can be mixed with all epoxy resin:. To be on the safe side, we recommend waiting a week before sanding and polishing the resin surface. Depending on the size of the object or the surface, you can use sandpaper with a fine grain for small objects.

This sandpaper has been useful for this and can be used for dry or wet sanding. You should always sand from coarse to fine grain so that there are no visible traces of sanding. For larger surfaces like River tables , floors, countertops, etc. The orbital sander not only rotates but gives you much finer sanding.

Additionally, sanding is done in a fraction of the time and it is much less likely to sand unevenly in some places. Epoxy resin does not necessarily require surface treatment. However, depending on the application, the wood next to it is raw and untreated. Also, fine stress marks in the epoxy resin may still be present and the depth effect is less-than-optimal. In that case, the following procedures can be utilized:.

Before starting to work on anything, you need to first identify what is the underlying problem, the reason for it. If you are not able to figure it out on your own, then get help. The problem will always differ, and so will its solution. For instance, the wood is rotting due to moisture that is emitted through another part of the object.

In this case, you would have to change the rotten part for something more resistant to moisture like redwood. Apart from this, it would also be good if a sheet of metal can be kept in between them to avoid any kind of contact.

Now, this is a great way to control problems, which led to the first outcome. Another kind of problem that may arise is that the paint on the wood gets old and ineffective, then the wood absorbs water and rots. This can be easily repaired by applying another coat of paint. Now, in these situations, the repair can be easily conducted by introducing new materials to the environment and eliminating the reason for the specific problems. But in cases where the causes are much more complicated, this can become a tough task to undertake.

This is when epoxy resin can come to the rescue. The only caution that you will have to take with epoxy is that you will have to let the wood dry completely, which can take longer than you expect. If this is not done, then the wood can rot further due to the moisture trapped. As such, epoxy resin and wood will not bond properly. Using a screwdriver, try to determine the extent of damage by poking the parts which are rotten or have started to putrefy.

Now, these parts should be either systematically removed or should be secured with an epoxy consolidant. For removing all the required parts, you would require a paint scraper, a screwdriver, and a chisel. Once you are sure how much is damaged, kick off the process by taking off the upper layer of paint along with the rotten parts of the wood. There is a possibility that if the paint is old, it also contains lead which can be toxic. For this, you must read about removal techniques to keep it safe.

It should soak into the rotten piece of wood. If the surface is vertical, then it would be better to have deeper holes, so that the consolidant gets maximum space inside and moisture will also get space to exit letting the epoxy to soak. If, by mistake, you drill right through the wood, you can use putty or clay to secure the bottom to stop the epoxy consolidant from leaking. For understanding how to use the consolidant better while wood repairing with epoxy resin, read the instructions provided in the next step.

Choose a ventilated area to work or prepare yourself with a respirator to counter the fumes. How to use the consolidant to a large extent depends on the instructions provided by the manufacturer.

Read them at least twice as proportions can get tricky with epoxy resin, and they have to be exact in case of wood epoxy in particular. Once the mixture is prepared, squeeze it into the holes that have been drilled on the wood for the required repair.

A small brush can help to apply the consolidant with ease. Continue doing so until the entire piece is saturated and has absorbed the liquid throughout. It is important to let the wood dry after this, at least for a week. That is why keeping it protected under a plastic sheet, so that it is protected from dust and rain, is a good idea. To speed up the process, you can place the sheet outside during the sunny hours of the day.

Even if the consolidant has not solidified completely, you can move forward to this part. This can be a little tricky to understand, so read carefully. The bark adds special details to wood and resin jewelry.

Now that you have your cuts drawn out, its time to take your wood to the table saw. Some tips I have for using this particular table saw is to hold the wood firmly to the tabletop and go very slow to get straight cuts. I will admit that my cuts are always wavy and curved, but in the end, it really does not make a difference because it will all be sanded down.

In this step, plan out where you will be placing your wood in your mold. There is no right and wrong way to place the wood just as long as you ALWAYS place the bark side of the wood toward the inside of the mold. Pour it into the bottom of the mold and make sure it covers the whole surface.

Then, place the wood back into the mold where you had planned. This is a step I initially did not do when I first started making these pendants, but what I noticed happening is I would do a large pour of resin and the wood would float to the top and change positions.

Once you let the wood slices cure to the base of the mold, set it aside and mix up a batch of resin. I mixed a total of 6 ounces. This amount will vary based on how much wood you are using and the size and depth of your mold. Leave the mixture for about 5 minutes to allow larger bubbles to pop and smaller bubbles to surface so you can pop them by breathing into a straw. Next, add your coloring! I use basic acrylic paint, but whatever you typically use to dye resin will work fine.

I used 7 dots of color to achieve an opaque purple, but if you want something a little more translucent just add less color.

Pour slowly to minimize bubbles and be sure to pour into all the crevices to ensure the resin will distribute evenly across the mold. Let cure for at least 24 hours. Releasing the resin from the mold is actually pretty easy. I pick up the entire mold and give it a little twist like I would an ice cube tray and then flip it over to push up on the bottom corner until I can grab it with my fingers to pull it the rest of the way out.

You have a block of wood and resin for jewelry! It will make your belt sanding experience so much better. But if you are like me, just draw out some lines on your wood that you want to use to approximate what you want your pendant to look like. There are no right or wrong cuts. You will see the belt sander will transform everything! I am using the same technique as before when using the table saw, slow Wooden Workbench With Drawers Not Working and steady. I only cut up a small portion of the block for demonstrating purposes, and I got 4 pieces out of it.

So from the whole block, I will get about pendants of varying shapes and sizes. As you can see, these are VERY rough cuts but pick your favorite and we will shape it into something beautiful using the belt sander! I feel like I need to go over a few things about the belt sander before you get going. This thing is very intimidating and can potentially be very dangerous.

I have it set on the floor of my basement because I have more control sitting, but it should probably be placed on a sturdy workbench. Lose clothes like sleeves and gloves can get caught and jammed into the belt sander, which as you can imagine would be extremely painful! Yes, I have broken a nail by it scraping against the sandpaper and yes, it hurts. My machine was off for the photos for obvious reasons but I wanted to show my hand placement when shaping.

I always start by sanding down the face of the pendant first, so that the wood and resin are flush. Hold the piece against the running belt being sure to have a strong grip, with your fingertips as far from the belt as possible. Once you have a flush pendant you can start shaping. Like before, have a strong grip, with your fingers safely placed.

Always start with one edge and slowly lower the rest of the pendant towards the sander. Try and make your pendant as symmetrical as possible, but just remember that your hand sanding will correct any slight mistakes. Notes about using the belt sander for wood and resin jewelry pendants.

I use the belt sander dry. As I stated in the supplies list, you need sandpaper grit 80, , , , , , and Lay them out on your table in numerical order from smallest to largest as shown in the photo. This will essentially be your assembly line. The goal is to buff out all the scratches from the belt sander to return the resin to a shiny clear finish. I also set out a bowl of water because sandpaper grit should be done wet.

This step is pretty exhausting and takes at least 40 minutes to get through, but this is the final step before you make your pendant into a necklace.

You are almost there! Typically I will spend about minutes sanding per side at each sandpaper station. I have no specific technique, just quick back and forth movements. When this happens to me, I start at grit and go back through the rest of the paper. This step can be skipped if you decided to go for a more opaque color like mine.

But if you chose to have some translucency to your piece then I would suggest polishing it. What I will do is dab some polish on an eyeglass cleaning cloth and buff it into the resin in circular motions. Try to avoid using it on the wood parts; sometimes it can slightly discolor it. Polish will not hide or get rid of any of the scratches left behind from the sanding but will make the resin shinier and more see-through.

I do not polish or seal the wood! This is something I have tried many times with different products to get a glossy look over the wood but it always comes out streaky or the wood absorbs the liquid. So in my process, for now, the wood stays unfinished after the sanding process. Use a crystal-clear resin as you would for filling the cracks.

This is generously distributed over the entire wood surface. This sealing prevents later outgassing of the wood. It is better to invest a little more money in a good brush that does not hair.

Because once hairs have been distributed, it is very difficult to remove them from the resin again. The sealant must then dry very well. You should allow 5 hours for this in any case.

After curing you should slightly roughen the inner edges , which will later come into contact with the cast resin, by hand with sandpaper. This will create the perfect base for the resin to bond with the edges.

Next, a mould is built in the desired length and size of the table. Simple MDF boards are used for this. The whole thing sounds more complicated than it actually is. However, it has to be measured and worked out very precisely and carefully.

MDF boards with a thickness of 16 mm, both for the underside and the sides, have proven to be very suitable for the production of the mould. The side panels should protrude the actual table top by approx. There are two possibilities for joining the underside with the side panels: either the individual parts can be screwed together or joined together with hot glue. MDF Board Set. Cordless Drill.

To seal the edges afterwards, it is best to use clear sanitary silicone. Otherwise liquid epoxy resin will leak out. Now a release agent is applied in the finished mould. This is a very important step, as the resin could otherwise adhere to the MDF boards after drying. In this case it would be almost impossible to release the table top from the mould without damaging it. It would be possible to use adhesive tape to cover the entire mould or, alternatively, liquid release wax. Spraying with Teflon spray or silicone spray this should be applied in up to three layers until the surface is smooth is also suitable for this purpose.

Caulking Gun with Gator Trigger. Magnetic Level. Otherwise the resin would become skewed after filling and possibly leak. Once this has been ensured, the wood is now placed in the mould. To do this, the wood is pushed into the position that it should have when the table is finished and then fixed with several parallel clamps.

If you are planning a slightly smaller model, the wood can alternatively be fixed with heavy objects such as stones. However, you should always bear in mind that any object used to fix the wood could come into contact with the resin.

In order to prevent the resin from later being present on the entire table and not just in the gutter provided for it , it is advisable to draw a kind of barrier of sanitary silicone along the inner edges at a distance of 1 to 2 cm.

In the next step you now mix the epoxy resin. Important: When working with resin please always wear safety glasses, breathing protection and nitrile gloves! Now you need a sufficiently large bucket. It would be ideal if this bucket holds the entire amount of resin or the first layer of resin. Please choose a sufficiently large bucket so that nothing can go wrong. It should also tend to be more wide than high, so that not too much heat is generated. This again shows that resin is a very sensitive material.

From a certain amount and height it starts to get extremely hot and in extreme cases boils and thus becomes either cloudy or directly unusable. Therefore it may be necessary to cast the resin in several layers. The product used is the most important factor here. How many layers are required, or the maximum layer height and maximum amount to be mixed, ultimately depends on the thickness of your table top. If in doubt, observe the maximum layer thickness specified by the manufacturer or decide directly for a special epoxy resin as described above, which can be cast directly in one layer.

Paint and Epoxy Mixer for drill. Heavy-Duty Mixing Bucket. It is also particularly important that the mixing ratio recommended by the manufacturer is observed and that the individual components are then thoroughly mixed. A drill with a mixer attachment has proven to be the best solution for this.

After mixing, air bubbles that have formed in the resin can be easily removed with a Bunsen burner or hot air blow dryer.

The rule here is: as much as necessary, as little as possible. If the resin is heated too much, it will be damaged. Hemway Pigment Powder Metallic.

Especially when casting a water effect, it becomes clear why the acquisition of a special epoxy resin, which can be cast very easily in one step, pays off. If you want to achieve the popular water look after mixing the two resin components , the appropriate colour pigments must now be added to the epoxy resin. To do this, divide the resin into two containers the ratio To achieve the water effect, colour the larger part of the resin with a metallic pigment in turquoise and the smaller part with a matt blue pigment.

This mixture refers, as said, only to the typical water look. In general, there are no limits to the choice of colour. When filling in the epoxy resin there are again two possibilities.

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