%!$ Easy Diy Woodworking Bench Plans For You #!@

traditional-wooden-hand-planes Old Street Tool, Inc. - Formerly Clark & Williams

Of all the tools you use to shape wood, the hand plane is the one that has come to symbolize craftsmanship of the highest order. And it's no surprise. Here's a cutting tool that's designed to create truth: dead straight and flat surfaces ready for finishing and precise joinery. Tuning one up and mastering its use are two of the greatest thrills of woodworking.

But, if you really want to bring the planes in your shop to the next level, it's time to traditional wooden hand planes your own.

Our interpretations are easily built, and the basic design traditional wooden hand planes well-suited to modification so you can make planes that match your needs.

We offer three sizes: a block plane, smooth plane and jointer plane, all based on the same shape but each with a different-size cutter iron. We used irons specifically traditional wooden hand planes for wooden planes, available from Hock Tools, Mitchell Creek Dr.

Each iron comes with a cap iron and assembly screw. While many woods are suitable, we chose cherry for the bodies and wenge for the soles of our planes. A sole isn't absolutely necessary, but a hard, dense wood resists wear on the bottom surface. Try to select stock that allows you to orient the grain vertically in both the plane body and sole to provide better dimensional stability. Click on link for high-resolution version of the plans.

Illustration by Eugene Thompson. If you're going to make more than one plane, it saves time in machine setup to make them Blades For Wooden Hand Planes all at once. First rip and crosscut the body blanks to size as shown in the plans.

Take care to ensure that the blanks are perfectly square in cross section. Glue the soles to the body blanks. When the glue sets, scrape off any squeeze-out and trim the soles flush. Then, measure from those marks to lay out the angled internal shape. Use an angle gauge to lay out the cuts, and saw to the waste sides of the lines on a band saw.

Use a razor-sharp block plane to plane the sawn surfaces of the body blocks so they're square to the sides of the blocks. Work carefully because the results will affect the performance of the plane. Traditional wooden hand planes the back block is not flat, the iron will rock or chatter in use. Clamp a support block so that its surface is flush to the angled face traditional wooden hand planes one of the back body blocks, then mount that assembly in a vise.

Clamp the front and back body blocks to one of the cheeks using a straight board to align the parts accurately.

Add the opposite cheek, then temporarily clamp the parts and traditional wooden hand planes pilot holes in the end waste areas for screws. Install the screws and remove the traditional wooden hand planes. Repeat the procedure traditional wooden hand planes each plane.

Remove the screws and set the parts aside while you prepare the crosspins. Wrap the faces of each blank with masking tape so that your layout marks will be easily visible, then mark the shoulders of each tenon. Install the plug cutter in the drill press, then clamp a tall fence and stopblock to the drill press traditional wooden hand planes. Clamp one of the pin blanks to the stopblock, and check that it is perfectly centered under the drill chuck.

Install the plug cutter in the drill and use it to cut the tenon. Stop the cutter just before it reaches the shoulder kerf, then remove the blank and use a sharp chisel to clean up the shoulder. Repeat the process for each tenon. Check the fit of each tenon in a test hole drilled in a piece of scrap lumber.

If the tenons are too tight, use grit sandpaper to adjust them until they slide easily into the hole. It is important that the tenons are snug, but the pins need to be able to rotate to adjust properly traditional wooden hand planes the angle of the wedge.

Use a rasp, file and sandpaper to round the top pin surfaces as shown in the plans. Prepare one of the plane bodies for glue-up. Next, apply glue to one face of each of the body blocks and place them on the cheek. Position the crosspin in the opposite cheek and spread glue on the remaining surfaces. Assemble the parts and drive the screws to ensure that the parts are aligned. Clamp the assembly, and allow the glue to Wooden Hand Planes Quest set for at least an hour before removing the clamps and scraping off excess glue.

Repeat the assembly process for each plane. Use a band saw to traditional wooden hand planes off the waste traditional wooden hand planes at the ends of each block. Transfer the side profile of each plane to its blank and cut out the shape. Mount one of the plane bodies in a clamp and use a rasp to shape the back-end profile. Keep in mind that the plane should be comfortable in your hand, so test its feel as you shape it.

Now is the opportunity to personalize your tool. Finish shaping the back using a file and sandpaper.

Then chamfer the top and front edges, and sand all outer surfaces withand grit sandpaper. For a plane to be useful as a flattening and straightening tool, it is essential that the sole be perfectly flat. Traditional wooden hand planes your assembly has gone smoothly, your tool is probably pretty close to being flat, but it still needs some work. The easiest way to flatten the sole is to stick a strip of self-adhesive sandpaper to the table saw table and repeatedly pass the plane over it.

Apply pressure only on the forward stroke, then lift the tool to bring it back for the next stroke. Examine the sole of the plane frequently as you work. You will be able to see if there are traditional wooden hand planes that still need work. Use a sanding block to ease the corners around the sole, then repeat the process with and grit to polish the sole. Rip a strip of wenge to width for one of the plane wedges, place a piece of masking tape on one edge and traditional wooden hand planes out the wedge shape.

Then cut the inside surface of the wedge. Slide the iron and cap-iron assembly into traditional wooden hand planes plane and test the fit of the wedge. Use grit sandpaper to adjust the shape of the wedge, as necessary, so that it exerts even pressure across its entire width.

You will know when the fit is correct when you see an evenly burnished line across the wedge face at the point where it contacts the crosspin. Then, use the band saw to finish cutting the back and top profiles of the wedge, and smooth the cut surfaces. To seal the wood we applied a penetrating finish of several coats of boiled linseed oil. Use a rag to completely soak all surfaces of the plane and wedge, let the oil absorb for about a half-hour and then wipe off the excess.

After overnight drying, repeat the process. Apply at least three coats using this technique. You can traditional wooden hand planes apply a light coat of wax to the sole of the plane to further reduce friction. Slide an iron assembly into one of the planes so that the cutting edge is flush and parallel to the sole, then position the wedge and give it a light tap to lock the iron in place.

To increase the depth of cut, use a small hammer to tap the iron lightly. To decrease the depth of cut, use a wooden mallet to tap the back end of the plane. After each adjustment, you should check the tension on the wedge, as it may need tightening. Type keyword s to search.

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Our objective at Red Rose Reproductions is the recreation of historic woodworking hand tools, with an emphasis on side escapement molding and specialty planes. Other tools we produce include winding sticks, bench hooks, a portable workbench, and tools made by Acer-Ferrous Toolworks, which include wooden vice screws and the sector. As you would expect from Mr. Whelan, this book is the finest and most complete work on the making of wooden planes in print. The reader will enjoy it even if he never puts blade to wood. Should he make a plane or two, he Old Wooden Hand Planes will find Making Traditional Wooden Planes most satisfying. pages. Fully illustrated. 81/2" x 11". Soft cover. Traditional Wooden Planes made in England. Phil Edwards is the craftsman behind Philly Planes, who are reviving the lost art of wooden plane making in the UK. As a woodworker with a passion for hand tools, planes in particular, it was inevitable that he would end up making them himself.

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