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titebond-liquid-hide-glue-for-guitar-feed Be more concerned about titebond liquid hide glue for guitar feed integrity. I have built using both glues and I cannot hear a difference. I use Hide or Aliphatic glue for nearly all wood to wood repairs including gluing bridges, bridge plates, braces, necks, most cracks and fingerboards. I hope this isn't too far off-topic. Why is Titebond 2 specifically better for regluing plastic bindings to lacquered instruments I. JGO Navigation. They used to do a "dark" version which I tried, but it went off before I could properly assess it.

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Tony Done. It isn't a common off-the-shelf item here in Oz. So which one s are the luthier repairer talking about when they Titebond Liquid Hide Glue Guitar Repair Jack suggest suggest Titebond? NOT the waterproof version! I use the original Titebond, when I use Titebond for repairs. Also worth noting that I am not a professional repairman. From what I can gather from their Oz website, that is the "aliphatic PVA" version, which dries "cream".

I'm guessing that it is different from the ordinary white PVA glue eg Selley's that I use for most woodworking jobs? Does anyone use the Titebond 2 premium? Too much of a good thing maybe? Titebond "Original" is the one commonly used nowadays for guitars etc. It has a longer "open time" and greater sensitivity to moisture for easier disassembly, but a shorter shelf-life 1 yr than Original. They used to do a "dark" version which I tried, but it went off before I could properly assess it.

I don't think it's found universal acceptance among professionals but I can't speak for them. If you want to try it for yourself, check the sell-by date before you buy. Have you looked at Titebond's "Glue Guide" , Tony? It has a comparison chart, tech specs and more Thanks Kev, your explanation and the Titebond guide cover it well. I don't do anything really adventurous in the way of guitar repairs, but I appreciate the concept of reversibility.

Howard Klepper. It dries slightly more slowly than Original Titebond. More importantly, it dries noticeably harder and has much better heat resistance the two tend to go together in PVA glues. It took me a while to track Extend down. It isn't shown, at least under that name on the Oz Titebond website. That is about par for the course here.

When I did find it, it was only available in 3. Does the greater heat resistance cause any issues for reversibility? Bruce Sexauer. There are plenty of other glues that serve our purpose well in the way that titebond I does.

Early on, for instance, I built quite a few guitars with Elmer's Glue-all that have been no trouble. Many of the white and yellow non-waterproof glues seem to work well. The white glues must be kept from being exposed to freezing temperatures. Tony Done wrote: It took me a while to track Extend down.

Hi Tony, I am in Australia and do a few guitar repairs. I bought a ml at Masters about 6 months ago and the small bottles are good as I do not use huge amounts and easy to keep a fresh supply this way. I think both stores supply on line in Australia. It seems to be common if you know where to look for it. See how you go. I hope this isn't too far off-topic.

More for furniture building than guitars, but interesting results. How do we know anything is genuine. Maybe someone took it for a test drive, swapped all the new parts under the hood and replaced I've been using the Roman Numeral system since forever. Once I have my root note established, all the chords are mapped out all over the FB.

When the tune modulates, the chord forms modulate. I first Isn't creation founded in pain? Aren't you supposed to be recording a tune for us? Chop chop, son. Looks like pure modeling stompbox. For this money Now excuse me while I go full beast mode on a Search Titles Only. Forum Gear The Builder's Bench. Titebond or hide glue. Thread Tools. Join Date Sep Posts 1, I always use titebond original it has never really failed me. I use it for peghead spits and neck cracks so why change?

But after reading and the debate does hide glue bring a better repair in some situations? Titebond allows much longer working time and the titebond hide glue is supposed to give more working time. What do any of you use or thoughts? The Jazz Guitar Chord Dictionary. Join Date Nov Posts The only issue with using hide glue on guitars is that many instruments that are built with hide glue are meant to be taken apart.

For example, violins are built using hide glue because they need to be taken apart when doing repairs, much more than an acoustic guitar would Hide glue can come apart easily with heat and water. Along with this, hide glue becomes brittle and crumbles after many years, making it a poor choice for an instrument that is intended to remain in one piece for its lifetime, whereas, as mentioned before, instruments made with hide glue are meant to be taken apart and reglued.

I generally use Titebond for my repairs and building because of its reliability and because it comes ready to use. I know several guitar repairmen who used to use hot hide Titebond Liquid Hide Glue For Guitar Solo glue for their repairs and building projects. All have since switched to Titebond as they all agree that it is a better glue for guitar building and repairs. I personally used to use hot hide glue but found that the mixing time along with its properties as a glue turned me away from using it on guitars.

One glue that I recently discovered is fish glue, currently sold by StewMac. I have only used it on several occasions after a guitar building friend of mine recommended it to me. Based on his review, it apparently transfers tone quite well and has very similar properties to hide glue; however, I cannot give much of an opinion on it until I have tried it more extensively.

Also, the hide glue that you mix is different from the hide glue that you can buy in a bottle. I would generally recommend that you avoid bottled, premixed hide glue.

Titebond has never failed you, so why switch now? One of the most useful properties of HHG is that it shrinks as it cures. The shrinking of the glue can be used to pull a small crack together or pull a ill fitting joint together. Cleanup can also be a good reason to use HHG. Traces of PVA can effect dye from penetrating wood and any traces of excess glue will show up on a hand rubbed vignette.

I have never heard of HHG crumbling and deteriorating with age. We have many examples of HHG lasting for centuries. Fish glue is similar to liquid hide glue.

They are both animal based glues that form a bond with collagen. Collagen is what mother nature uses to hold us all together. Would be interested in what you use for your guitars Matt? Join Date Sep Posts As someone who does repair as well as building, I think we all should think a little more about the ease of repairs down the road.

No instrument will last forever, and certainly not without some repairs or modifications along the way. Hide glue lasts plenty long enough, and it's relatively easy to work with. I HHG for crack repairs, for braces, etc. I build classical guitars, so only FP finishes.

I don't have any issues with titebond, and I do use it with things that need lots of open time. I've begun using fish glue too over the past year. I like it so far. It's similar to HHG, but with a much longer open time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk. Originally Posted by deacon Mark. Actually, I asked a friend of mine, who recently put a new nut and neck set on my '36 Kalamazoo Tenor Guitar, about these older guitars having such a warmer, different sound than the newer ones, he replied about the woods as we all know , aging so gracefully, but he also mentioned something I never thought about.

Hide glue has the ability to move with the vibration of the wood, the newer glues on the market, basically turn to stone. While securing braces and the rest of the instrument, the modern glue also separates these components; hide glue connects them. How about that Originally Posted by Ol' Fret. There's no constructive or any other intrinsic reason at all that instruments of the violin family need more frequently, or to more extent, to be taken apart when doing repairs, compared to plucked instruments.

Originally Posted by Sam Sherry. With all respect, sure there is. Flat-tops and classicals can be repaired through the big circular hole chopped in the middle of the top. Violins can't.

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