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sharpening-grinder-speed-55 Now with the grinder on, raise the handle until the full bevel touches the wheel. The manufacturers indicate the motor power in Amperes, with options such as 4. The spindle gouge is designed to cut curves, coves, and other detailed profiles on spindles and bowls. After that, you will find that sharpening your turning tools involve a lot of accessories and can get quite detailed. Grinding wheels require sharpening grinder speed 55 dressing. Supports inside allow both grinding wheels to operate independently or at the same time without the grinder wobbling or moving as you use it.

Some woodworkers regard sharp tools with an almost religious appreciation, while others sharpen them only when they're black or chipped. Whatever your discipline, there are two types of grinders used by most woodworkers: fast and slow.

High-speed grinders typically spin 5-inch wheels at about 3, rpm and are typically geared mostly for professional uss. Slow-speed grinders spin 8-inch wheels at about 1, rpm. Most weekend woodworkers prefer the slow-speed grinder because it's easier to control.

Put on eye protection. The platform tips up or down to change the angle of the platform in relationship to the wheel. Place the tip of a chisel, knife, bit or tool on the platform with the beveled side facing down. The handle or end of the tool should be facing your body. For drill bits, angle the tip of the bit slightly so that one beveled side of the tip is facing the wheel.

Push the tool slightly forward so that the beveled tip makes contact with the wheel. Tip the platform up or down, so that the angle of the tool matches the face of the wheel where it makes contact with the wheel. The flat edge of the bevel should fit flat against the wheel. The sharp edge should be facing upward. Tighten the wing nut or bolt to lock the platform in place. Push the tool forward gently so that it just barely makes contact with the wheel.

When sparks begin to emerge from the bottom of the bevel, move the tool back and forth over the face of the wheel four or five times, using the platform to maintain the correct alignment of the bevel against the wheel; keep it flat. Remove the workpiece from the platform. Check the bevel.

As you grind, focus on holding the gouge firmly on the rest and keeping its end square to the wheel. When sparks come over the top of the tool, you should be done.

In my opinion, freehand grinding is safer and just as accurate. The spindle gouge is designed to cut curves, coves, and other detailed profiles on spindles and bowls. Unlike a roughing gouge, this profile has a longer, tapered point, with cut-back shoulders designed to stay clear of the cut. Sharpening a spindle gouge requires more practice than other tools because the tool is rolled against the grinding wheel while simultaneously being slid up higher on the wheel to grind the wings.

Unlike a basic gouge, you cannot simply set the tool on the rest. To facilitate this two-step process, I set my resting hand on the V-rest as shown above left. I think this method keeps your hand a safer distance from the wheel. With the grinder off, set the gouge on your resting hand and slide it forward until the middle section of the bevel touches the upper half of the wheel, and then allow it to tip away from the wheel.

Now with the grinder on, raise the handle until the full bevel touches the wheel. As you rotate the tool, simultaneously push it up on the grinding wheel, as shown. Repeat this process on one side until sparks come over the edge and inside the flute.

Then repeat the procedure on the other side of the bevel. This gouge can also be sharpened freehand, but when establishing a brand-new bevel on a larger gouge, I appreciate help from the Vari-Grind jig. To use the jig, first employ the stop so that the tip projects about 2" from the front of the jig as shown.

Now, turn the grinder on, and lower the tool onto the wheel. Grind the tip first, and then pivot and swing the jig in each direction, as shown to create an even grind. As you can see in the photo, it helps to stand to one side the grinder in order to stay clear of handle. The skew chisel is my go-to tool for most spindle turning. It can be used not only to shape, but also to finish cylinders, V-grooves, beads, and long concave curves.

Since it is a finish-surface tool, a skew must be razor literally, hair-shaving sharp. Rather than using a grinder, I prefer shaping the bevels on either a disc or belt sander outfitted with grit abrasive.

Unlike a wheel, these machines maintain the flat bevel. Note: To avoid any chance of fire, remove sawdust from the sander and surrounding area. Repeat this procedure on the opposite face. After grinding both faces, check the bevels, and then make any necessary adjustments so that both bevels are the same length. After grinding, you'll need to hone the edge. A few passes on each side should do the trick.

These days, I also keep a diamond paddle in my apron pocket. This accessory provides a handy way to touch up an edge before making a finishing cut.

I find that I can re-hone an edge several times before needing to regrind it. The trick is knowing when a tool needs a touch-up, before the damage is done.

The ability to tell the difference requires a certain amount of experience, especially since some woods are harder to turn than others. One quick way to determine whether a tool is sharp or not is by dragging its edge across your thumbnail. Nick Cook is a founding member of the American Association of Woodturners, and conducts woodturning workshops across the country. You must be logged in to write a comment.

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