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radial-arm-saw-table-plans-guide What appears as a red button on the guiee of the motor arbor opposite the blade end is probably not a control button, but a thread protector. According to feedback on the forum, I need to have boards between the fence and the back table to improve the fence's rigidity and to make it possible to expand the giide area for ripping. Also, radial arm saws do not like to be moved, and settings will probably drift when one is moved. Separate the rails about 6" off the floor, rout and paint 4X8 sheets of plywood for a back and attach your metalworking vice on one of the wing tables some distance behind the fence's line. Just use the old radial arm saw table plans guide as a template.

The green arrow points to a screw that puts tension on a nylon button to add the right amount of drag on the column when it is cranked up or down. When you believe you have the key properly adjusted, grasp the knob on the end of the arm and try to move the arm right or left. There should be not discernible play between the column and its receiver. Yet, the arm should raise smoothly when cranked and without too much effort.

The photo shows the top of the motor yoke assembly. The lever that tightens the yoke to prevent left or right rotation during use is the chrome arm under the yellow arrow. Pull it toward the back of the saw to loosen the yoke so it can be rotated. A spring loaded release pin must also be raised and held.

There is more about adjusting this release pin later in the discussion of removing heel. Notice the two red lines. When the lever is tight, the lever should be behind the corner of the yoke by about the distance shown between the two red lines. As the saw wears, the lever will come closer and closer to the corner of the yoke when the yoke is tight. That can be adjusted. Notice the blue arrow. It points to a particular hole in a wheel full of holes.

There is a locking screw in this hole. Remove it with an Allen wrench from beneath the yoke. Turn the wheel with the holes clockwise one or two holes and insert the locking screw from below again. The handle should now lock the yoke with the proper amount of space before it is too close to the corner. Notice the four bearing rollers. The two marked with orange arrows have eccentric cams. As the mounting bolts are turned clockwise, the rollers move toward the center of the yoke assembly.

Those indicated by the green arrows simply bolt to the top of the yoke assembly without any eccentric cams. These roller support the yoke assembly on the recessed ways in the saw arm. Note: On some slightly newer saws the bearing rollers are concave rather than convex. Instead of riding in recessed ways, they ride against round rods fastened to the sides of the saw arm.

There is a large Allen screw under the arm at the end near the adjustment knob. See the first photo. This Allen screw keeps the yoke assembly from rolling off of the end of the arm. Remove the Allen screw from the arm. Cradle the motor and yoke in both hands and guide the bearing rollers into the recessed ways on the arm. Put the Allen screw back in place and tighten it. Make the electrical connections for the switch and install its mount on the top of the saw arm.

I use an aftermarket switch from Radio Shack on my saw because the original switch is no longer available from Sears. See this Instructable for details. Tighten the roller bearings with the eccentric cams. The yoke assembly should slide back and forth on the rollers easily and with the same amount of drag over the length of the saw arm.

Place a hand under the yoke assembly and pull upward with some force. There should be no sensation of looseness between the yoke assembly and the saw arm. While two wrenches are visible in the first photo, my hand is not on one of them in order for me to be able to hold the camera for the photo. Try to make the tension on both the front and the rear bearing rollers as nearly the same as possible. This saw can operate on or on volts. The plate on top of the motor tells which wires to connect in order to switch from one voltage to another.

The saw draws 10 amps at volts, or 5 amps at volts. The connections are to be made under this cover. I have never run the saw on volts, but there are situations where that option would be an advantage. There is also a reset button. I have had this saw 40 years. In that time I remember using the reset button once. I believe the blade bound up in something and the reset stopped the motor before I could reach the switch. Two rails support the saw table.

It is important for dado cuts, etc. A high corner could destroy accuracy. Each rail is attached with two bolts, one near the front of the saw base and one near the rear. Loosening the bolts a little allows tapping the ends of the rails up or down just a little. The photo demonstrates the recommended way to set the rails. Rotate the motor in the yoke assembly so the shaft is vertical.

Rotate the arm and move the yoke assembly on the arm until the shaft is directly above one of the bolts. Raise or lower the saw arm until one of the wrenches used for attaching the saw blade slides between the end of the motor shaft and the top of the rail with just a little drag. Lock down all adjustments to the motor yoke adjustment knob at the end of the arm and the stop on the motor carriage to eliminate possible error.

Tighten the bolts on the rails when finished and check the position of the rails above each bolt again. Place the saw table onto the support rails. Align the four bolt holes and bolt the table to the rails. The saw table has some movement when the bolts are loose. That can be used to adjust the front of the saw table where the fence will be positioned so it is exactly 90 degrees to the travel of the motor and yoke on the saw arm. See this Instructable where I added two blocks to the underside of the saw table and inserted screws through them to make alignment blocks.

The tips of the screws ride against the frame of the saw base and allow instant, precise alignment once the screws in the blocks have been adjusted after initially adding the blocks. Note: It can happen that one of the rails from the previous step is too far forward and the holes in the table do not align with the holes in one of the rails.

It may be necessary to repeat the previous step while moving one rail forward or backward a little. It can also happen that someone acquires a radial arm saw, but the saw table is missing. Here are the dimensions for a Sears Craftsman saw like mine. See the second graphic. After almost 40 years of cut marks I made a new table 48 inches wide.

Also drill into each hole to make a countersink for the bolt heads. This should be deep enough that the blade will not reach them during use. Set a square against the blade to see if it is square with the table when set at zero degrees.

In the first photo you can see a gap at the top of the square. The four Allen screws visible need to be loosened. The bottom two screws are not accessible until the locking knob is removed. Loosen all four screws. The motor is heavier on the right side and it will sag.

A neat trick to make aligning the motor tilt easy is to put a block under the right side of the motor. The crank that raises and lowers the column can be gently tweaked to make the blade parallel to the leg of the square. Put the locking knob back into place. Leave it loose. Push the handle in a clockwise direction to take out the play.

Tighten the adjustment knob. Gently tighten the top two Allen screws, alternating between them. Remove the knob and tighten the two bottom Allen screws.

Insert the knob again. Swing the motor into place and lock the knob. Adjust the pointer on the degree scale, if necessary. The internal mechanism consists of a metal wedge pushed inward by the knob. See the third graphic. The sides of the wedge push two sets of two nylon cylinders outward against internal castings. The nylon cylinders next to the metal wedge have a square end and a rounded end. One of these had been inserted backwards at the factory. I had to remove the motor from the yoke.

Paint marks on the rear pivot of the motor helped me get the motor back into place again. Use a good square to check the travel of the blade so it is at 90 degrees to the fence. Pull the motor down the length of the arm. The blade should lightly touch the square the length of travel. Flip the square over and check from the other side of the blade, too. See this Instructable for a more precise way of checking by cutting two square pieces of thin plywood simultaneously, flipping one over, and checking to see if their edges meet consistently or if they form a "V.

Someone will surely comment that there has been a recall on these saws and free floating blade guards are available. That is true for some older saws, but the serial number on mine is not included as eligible for that offer.

A government video to illustrate the alleged dangers of a saw without the floating blade guards shows the operator with his hand flat on the table in the path of the blade. No one with any intelligence would ever place his hand in the path of the blade like that. The proposed floating blade guards would not save a hand firmly on the saw table in front of the blade travel, anyway. I prefer to keep my hands away from the blade and continue to use the saw just as I have done very safely for the last 40 years.

Heel results in burn marks on at least one side of the cut. You can also detect heel when the blade kicks up splinters as it exits the cut at the rear of the cut. Use a framing square to check for heel. Set one leg against the fence. Bring the other leg against the saw blade.

If there is no heel, the square and the saw blade will meet consistently from the front of the blade to the rear. If there is a "V"-shaped gap, the blade has some heel that will need to be removed. The hammer in the first photo is supporting the square so I can check for heel below the motor shaft for more accuracy. In the second photo my finger points to one of the two bolts that lock down the indexing pin mount. Loosen these two bolts a moderate amount and the pin mount can slide left or right.

Hold the indexing pin up and rotate the yoke until the square indicates the heel is gone. Gently lock the yoke in place. Push the indexing pin mount to the right of the photo and lock it down with the two bolts.

Loosen the yoke and swing it back into place. Tighten the yoke lever. Check settings with the square again. The most certain test is to make some cuts in some wood and see how the saw performs.

This can be a very tedious process. I think I have it just right, but when I loosen the yoke and swing it into position against the indexing pin, I learn I am "off" a fraction of a degree, perhaps more. I have found a fine adjustment is not too difficult if I tighten the knob that locks the yoke assembly in place on the arm, loosen the chromed lever that locks down the yoke, pull the yoke pin about halfway out of its socket It is tapered, which allows some control over how much the yoke can turn under these conditions.

Then swing the yoke into position again and check alignment. See the third photo for a helpful set up. When using this set up, move the square to the other side of the motor and check the reading on the rule.

Tweak until the reading from both sides is the same. Mechanical things do wear. Indexing holes that were once precise can wear at differing rates so that a saw adjusted for good crosscuts with no heel show quite a bit of heel on rip cuts. See this Instructable for my relatively simple solution to restore accuracy to the indexing holesthir.

All radial arm saw adjustments have some play in them. The suggestion is to set the saw up so that you always remove play by nudging the part being positioned in the same direction.

I chose always to take the play out by nudging the parts in a clockwise direction. That means sliding the pin mount to the right in the photo before locking it down with the bolts after the chromed lever on the right side of the saw was loosened and the yoke was rotated to remove any heel so the chromed lever could be tightened again. Make some crosscuts and some rip cuts in some scrap wood and check the cuts for heel and for square.

If everything went well, you now have a very precisely adjusted radial arm saw. As mentioned in the Introduction, radial arm saws do go out of adjustment through use, through moving them, and through knocks and bumps that seem to be inevitable in a workshop. Most users will check all of the major settings for accuracy before beginning any important special project. It is important to set up the saw in the steps shown here because later settings are dependent upon earlier settings being precise.

Question 8 weeks ago. I just got the saw that is conveniently in the instructions above. Everything is pretty rusted and seized but nothing i cant clean up and the motor does work but there is one problem and its that the bevel adjustment doesn't work and I cant get the handle away from the yoke. I can get it to move by giving it some firm taps with a dead-blow but I was wondering if anyone had tips for trying take it off so I can get rid of anything thats Mr Sawdust Radial Arm Saw Table Plans Sale binding in it. I took the 4 bolts out and the know out but it is just stuck.

Answer 7 weeks ago. I assume you removed the four screws around the knob and the handle on the front side. On the back side of the motor yoke from the handle is another pivot point for the motor bevel. It is held by a hex head bolt on either side of the pivot.

Make a mark around it so you can locate it precisely later. Remove the hex head bolts and see if you can rock the motor down and out of the yoke. Then you can address any corrosion that impedes the motor tilting right or left. The handle and motor support parts are cast aluminum.

The yoke is cast iron. Getting penetrating oil into the area around the handle and tapping on it a little could not hurt, either. Question 6 months ago on Step Have there been any issues with Craftsman RAS with the brake system to stop blade from spinning after power shut doen? I see all the parts in that system are no longer avaailable. Answer 6 months ago. I do not know the history of problems with the saw you mention. I have used my saw a lot.

I am sure it does not stop as fast as it once did. But, I have not replaced the brake pad faces. I know parts for various Sears radial arm saws are Often sold on eBay. Question 1 year ago. I will work on that next! Then the job of aligning the table will start! I have a large dewalt ras I am making a table for now. I love the struts you built.

Good work. Can't believe you didn't get more comments and kudos. Jim — Manteca. CA, USA. I have one of these saws that belonged to my dad. Was thinking about selling it due to it's size, power demands uses but can be changed to v and lastly the top needed rework.

Seeing what you've done has changed my mind and given me guidance on how to do. Thanks much. Lee — Washington. Subject: Countersink holes looking awful. The way to get smooth looking countersinks using a hand drill is to do away with the multi-flute countersinks they set up a vibration, especially at high rpms and are mostly intended for rigid operations involving a milling machine or drill press and get a single flute Ford brand.

Then slow your RPM down to about Use moderate pressure. Not too light or you will dull the tool, and not too heavy to cause splitting or cracking. Practice on a scrap piece of the same wood you will be working on, as different types of wood behave differently when being c'sunk. You may want to also c'sink the hole locations before drilling.

This gives more resistance to the point of the c'sink for a smoother finish and the c'sink hole will be a guide for the drill to follow for accuracy.

Good Luck. Aich — Somewhere in Illinois. Nice job, Andy. Thanks for all the great pics. I've bookmarked your site for future reference. Eldon — Mustang, OK.

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