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pure-tung-oil-bunnings It can be applied in the same manner as other vegetable-based products and will offer a softer finish pure tung oil bunnings your projects. Tung oil polymerizes naturally as it dries, but the heating process to polymerize tung oil takes care of the polymerizing in advance so the polymerized tung oil will dry faster and harder and is more viscous. Please note: The likelihood is that if you have properly prepared your wood there will be NO bunninbs oil to be concerned about. Finally, they can become rancid and will make your food-safe wooden utensils smelling bad. By the way, excess oil should never pure tung oil bunnings an issue when using this method.

Why should I use Orange Tung instead of pure Tung oil alone? The downside of using pure unadulterated Tung oil is that it can take days to dry, and unless you know how to apply it, problems with ripples, bubbles, settling dust and insects can occur. For interior floors you can use a fine bristle applicator which features a 'flat-to-floor' mechanism ensuring that your finish is smooth and ripple free.

Please do not use lambs wool applicators as they apply too much oil to the timber. This technique can be easily adapted for sealing raw wooden furniture, both indoors and in the garden, or to any other timber items to which you want to give a long-wearing layer of protection. To get directions on how to make yourself an old fashioned shellackers 'rubber' to hand rub Orange Tung into your project, email us. By the way, excess oil should never be an issue when using this method. We recommend a light coating of our SunShield product to maintain a long lasting finish in outdoors areas or Feed-N-Wax indoors.

For occasional scuff repair, use a dab of Howard Feed-N-Wax applied carefully with an abrasive sponge pad or similar. Avoid cleaning with warm, soapy water. Soap residue causes milkiness in the finish and it harbours bacteria. Use a little orange oil on a sponge mop. If you really do need to clean using soap use Howard Clean-A-Finish blended with water and when dry rub some orange oil or Feed-N-Wax over the area to remove any soapy residue.

Please Note: Preparation and application is the key to a successful finish. Orange Tung Wood Oil is a unique blend of natural products requiring a degree of tender loving care and patience to achieve optimum results.

The final result achieved may vary according to: timber type, preparation techniques, weather conditions and the application process used. Please ensure that all provided instructions are followed closely. If you do need to clean using soap use Howard non chemical Clean-A-Finish and when dry rub some orange oil or Feed-N-Wax over the area to remove soap residue. For long-term maintenance a coat of Feed-N-wax every few months is a good idea and will extend the life of your deck, floor or furniture for many years.

A few known problems that have been experienced and can be rectified: Indonesian timbers such as Merbau pron; Merboo , which contain very visible streaks of dark oil and flecks of yellowy wax deposits in the grain can tend to resist introduced oils.

This type of wood must have the oils and waxes removed from the upper surface for best results when applying decking oil. Timbers such as Merbau can also darken when coated with penetrating oil such as Orange Tung. To many people this isn't a problem, especially as dark flooring is currently very popular in the industry.

An orange peel effect is sometimes created either by not properly removing excess oil or because of some reaction to other oils or chemicals in the wood you are working on. We do add a special vegetable oil product to the mix which combats this problem however it can be rectified in small areas by rubbing it way with grade steel wool saturated with Howard Orange Oil.

Sometimes we hear that although the floor looks beautiful and the customer is very happy with it, there is a slight oiliness still evident that while not sticky, tends to come off on socks and so forth. This effect can occur with extremely hard wood, especially if the humidity is very high and the temperature very hot. This problem will eventually solve itself as the oil and the wood overcome the elements surrounding them and settle down. To deal with this problem immediately rub some pure Howard Orange Oil into the sticky areas and this will clean the stickiness away.

I have not heard of sort-term illnesses caused by consuming rancid oils, but they do contain free radicals that may increase your chances for developing certain types of cancers.

These oils will not remain on the surface and can cause an off-taste when the utensils are used. Is your finish ready once it has dried? No, it is not. There is a difference between drying time and curing time. Wood finishes that are pre-made will often list a drying time on their label. This is the amount of time the manufacturer suggests you wait before applying additional coats. The surface layer will feel dry to the touch with most products, but the material under that dry surface will not have dried.

Pre-made products will also list a curing time for each product. This indicates the amount of time you need to wait before using the finished item. It will be dry from the surface to the deepest spots of penetration.

The first area of concern when it comes to toxicity is during application on your projects. You should always have good ventilation in your shop, and I would recommend that you also purchase breathing protection. Most woodworkers think of dust masks when contemplating protection. These may work great for keeping wood particles out of your nose and lungs, but they will not protect you from chemical vapors.

You need to get a respirator that is designed to pull harmful chemicals out of the air that you breathe in through the respirator. Another concern for many is the toxicity levels on treated wood items used for food and toys. Boiled linseed oil and tung oils are the least toxic finishes you can use. Shellacs and water-based finishes are the next best options in this regard. Finally, finishes like lacquers represent the most toxic finishes you will use. Most finishes, no matter what type they are, will be usable on wooden dishes if you are applying them as the manufacturer suggests as well as making sure they are completely cured before use.

Each product is different, even if they are made by the same company. Most companies will list products that meet government standards for food safety.

Again, there will be two scenarios to keep in mind here. The first concern is the temperature range the product should be stored and used at.

Chemicals can break down if they stored at too low of a temperature or may combust if kept at a temperature beyond the recommended range. Secondly, you will want to consider the temperature that the utensils will be used at.

Items used for cooking like spoons or spatulas will be used on hot cooking surfaces. Verify on the label if the finish will tolerate these extremes without breaking down or melting as you cook.

In many cases, you will want to apply a finish that produces a hard surface. There are times that you may want to avoid this, such as finishing a cutting board. If the wooden item will be cut or hammered on, you might want a softer finish that gives a bit to avoid flaking that can cling to your food.

The durability of a particular finish should also be considered with the shape of the item. Boards or utensils with sharp edges will likely wear out sooner than they would with a beveled, or rounded, edge.

Grooves and indentations can also be problematic, becoming a collection point for bacteria or grease build-up. Softer finishes may become more susceptible then harder coatings as they will be more porous.

Unwanted build-up can penetrate the surface, making it impossible to clean off and forcing you to strip down the finish and re-applying it. There is a surprising variety of wood finishes that are available to us today.

I started with the products that my grandfather used while supplementing them with others that I wanted to try out. The following finishes are worth considering, especially on your wood projects that need to be food-safe.

These oils are often made from distilled petroleum or other mineral sources. That may be an important consideration for woodworkers who desire a natural look for their cooking ware. Mineral oil does not smell and will not add an odor to the food items that it comes into contact with. They work well as an overcoat on wood stains that are water-based but should be avoided if your stain is oil-based. You should find mineral oils for a cheaper price point when compared to many types of finishes.

This product provides a soft finish that will work well on cutting boards or wooden countertops. It lacks a bit in the durability department, however, and will require regular maintenance that will include re-coating your projects. If you are considering mineral oil as a finish, it is important to understand that these products are available in crude or refined products.

Crude mineral oil is often used in industrial settings and should be avoided if possible. Instead, look for refined mineral oil, as the FDA lists them as safe to use in cosmetics and food. This product has been used for centuries as a finish and polish for wood. It is natural and lacks harsh chemicals that are less desirable.

Many woodworkers prefer this material made by honey bees due to this benefit. One thing to keep in mind is that beeswax will require a bit more work to use when compared to some finishes.

You will need to melt it so that it becomes soft enough to work with. Beeswax will harden quickly, so many joiners mix it with an oil tung oil is often used to extend its working time. You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. Scientific Name - Aleurites fordii Common Name - Tung oil tree, tung nut Family - Euphorbiaceae Plant Description - Deciduous tree; leaves alternate, simple, long-stalked, heart-shaped; flowers pale pink to white, with petals, in large clusters; fruits large, globular, with seeds.

Origin - China Where Found - Landscape as cultivated ornamental small tree. It is classed as a drying oil along with linseed, poppy seed, safflower seed, walnut, soybean, oiticica and a few other oils. Although it is relatively new to the Western world, tung oil also known as Chinawood oil has been known for centuries to the Chinese, and until this century, China was the main source for the oil.

It comes from the seed of the tung trees, Aleurites fordii and Aleurites Montana, deciduous trees that are very susceptible to frost damage. This vulnerability has restricted the cultivation of the tung trees to China and South America. Tung oil china wood oil received wide application in China: in the building trades as a treatment for both stone and wooden structures; in marine trades as a preservative and water repellent on wooden boats.

It is said to have been introduced to the West by Marco Polo. From the 13th to the 19th century, tung oil had only limited use in the West. More recently, tung oil has gained favour over linseed oil for wood finishing because it is faster drying and does not darken as much with age. A Pure Tung Oil finish will not darken with age as other finishes will. It resists marring, penetrates well, remains elastic and unlikely to craze. Tung oil builds quickly, consolidates the wood surface and leaves a ansparent matte finish.

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