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making-a-small-tool-box-71 One of the most tricky parts of this project is assembling the rest of the tray. Its just stronger. Great, simple and straightforward plans and build. Tools that have neither self awareness or souls. Most importantly, it has enough room to add more tools when needed.

Now, complete the second layer in exactly the same way as the first. You will see the wood become darker as you apply more stain, which is what should happen.

You might notice that the end grain is darker that the surface of the wood, but that is a normal condition and is nothing to worry about. Again, let the wood dry and sand it. Don't forget to dispose of the stain rags carefully and appropriately. Stain rags will spontaneously combust if disposed of incorrectly.

Let them dry laid flat on a non-flammable surface and throw them in an outdoor garbage can, or permanently submerge the rags in a water-filled paint can and dispose of the can as hazardous waste. I used clear polyurethane to finish my toolbox. Polyurethane not only makes the wood feel smooth, but it also provides a beautiful and durable glossy coat, and it is very easy to apply. Other finishes don't always have all of these qualities, but polyurethane provides a good balance of application skill, visual appeal, and durability.

Of course, you can decide to go with a lacquer or an oil finish if you wish, but I would recommend polyurethane. Before you do any of the finishing, I would like to warn you again that polyurethane contains alphatic hydrocarbons just like oil-based stain , which can cause permanent brain and nervous system damage. W ork outside or in a well ventilated area. Also, don't forget to wear nitrile or latex gloves.

Once you have put polyurethane on the toolbox, I recommend washing your hands just to be safe. Once you have paper or a shop cloth laid out, polyurethane application is very simple. Just pour some of the liquid onto one of the clean, lint free rags, and wipe the rag onto the wood, following the grain. Make sure the rag has quite a bit of polyurethane on it, but do not leave puddles of polyurethane on the wood.

For the first coat, you should see only a faint shine on the wood after wiping the polyurethane on. Make sure that you get polyurethane in the corners and under the handle in the tray.

Let the toolbox sit in a ventilated area for hours after you have applied the first coat the wood should feel dry to the touch. Once you have completed the first coat, sand the entire toolbox again with grit sandpaper.

Wipe out the dust from sanding. Again, wet the rag with polyurethane and wipe it on the entire toolbox. Let it dry and sand it another time. If you want, you can do a third coat, but don't forget to sand afterwards. When you have completed the polyurethane application, let the toolbox air out for a day or two the fumes will still remain for a little while.

Dispose of the rags safely- they will spontaneously combust if wadded up or thrown out when soaked with polyurethane. Line up the top handle on the top piece of the box, and put in all four screws with the drill using the Phillips-head bit. Lift up the top with the handle. Feels good, right?

Clamp the top of the box vertically to the table, and clamp a hinge so that the screw holes line up. Put in 3 of the screws, and repeat this on the other side. Now flip the top piece over again so that a hasp top can be clamped on.

Put in 3 screws for both of those pieces also. Now clamp the top and the base of the box together, and make sure that they are lined up correctly. Make sure that all of the hinge mounting holes line up with the holes that you drilled earlier. Put in the last 3 screws on the hinge.

Repeat this on the other hinge. Let's move onto the hasps. Flip the clamped box over, line up the bottom hasp piece, and leave it open.

Once it is lined up, clamp it down, but do not close it. Put in the 3 screws that hold it in place, and repeat this on both sides. You can now undo the clamps that have been holding everything together. Test out the box, and see how well it opens and closes. Try out the hasps, too. Finally, we need to put on the box corners. Line up the metal piece on the corner of the box, and hold one of the small mounting screws with the needlenose pliers. Tap the screw lightly to get it started in the wood, and then use a Phillips-head screwdriver to get it to grab into the wood and screw in.

Once you have installed the corners, you are finished with the toolbox. In terms of my expectations for this project, I was surprised that it came together so easily and that I didn't make any huge mistakes. If you make this toolbox, just take your time and pay attention to what you are doing, and you will have a great outcome.

Looking at the finished product, I wanted to point out some important things to know about the completed toolbox. I was very happy with the final result of my toolbox- it holds all of my tools comfortably. Most importantly, it has enough room to add more tools when needed. A neat addition that came to mind was the possibility of woodburning my initials or other designs onto the wood of the toolbox.

If anyone tries that out, I would love to see the results. In fact, I would love to see any builds of this toolbox- just post an image in the comments below. If you have any suggestions, corrections, or tips, please let me know what you think in the comments section. I would love to hear any feedback on my first Instructable. Thanks for reading, and best of luck to the other contest participants.

May the greatest Instructable win! I wounder on to here from time to time, amazed at what people do and somewhat.. I have a little question, and need some insight. My over all goal is to sort them, by country, a box like this would be epic. How might I go about adding little segregated off areas? Like slats, or dividers? Or anything you wonderful people, feel might help me on this quest? Also, my medium is pallet wood. Everyone says its stupid, BUT wood is wood. Yea know? Made this over the last couple of nights.

Great, simple and straightforward plans and build. Thanks for putting it together for everyone! I know this is an old thread but hoping to get a response still I don't hate the look of the screws by any means, but think it may look cleaner with them filled. Finished up yesterday. It's a little heavier than I'd like partly because of the thickness, partly because of the type of wood , but I think it looks pretty nice.

Thanks for posting the Instructable, it was fun! Reply 6 years ago on Introduction. That looks really great! I'm happy that you made one, and it's cool for to see the design made by someone new!

Very nice job with that :. And the wood is most of the weight of the empty box, so you nearly double that when you use 1" thick board.

On the bright side, you make up for it in durability what you lose in weight, so it's not a bad tradeoff. I'm glad that you liked the instructable! Thanks for posting your finished result- it gave me a warm and fuzzy feeling inside that you built it and everything worked out :. What alternate wood would you recommend? I can't find any lumber place near me that stocks poplar.

I would go for birch, if poplar is not available. It's strong and stains well, but I'm not sure if the lumber stores near you stock it. If they don't have birch, you could ask a store employee which wood that is in stock is the best to use for this project, or you can ask me if you want :. I ended up using pine after talking with my neighbor who's an avid woodworker.

I've never really done a project like this, so if nothing else it should let me learn a little bit about the process. Sounds great! I would love to hear about or see pictures of your completed product when you are finished- I've never made a toolbox out of pine before, so it's a new thing for me too. A left blade circular saw? Never understood why most circs saw have the blade on the opposite side where you have to STAND over the saw to see where you're cutting.

It appears that worm drive Hypoid saws and cordless are the only ones that are always left blade. Thank you! No need to apologize for the tangent- I couldn't agree more! It seems like left-blade circular saws are becoming more popular, which is good for us right-handers : Thanks for sharing. Good one! Wait a second my pen is even advertising to me because i'm a right-hander!

I love working with Poplar and I never have enough toolboxes. I feel this would be a great project to teach woodworking to new woodworkers also and might invoke this project in an intro class. Woodworking concepts are better taught when there's a project to teach them with and especially a useful one that can help a woodworker store their new tool collection! Kudos to you, and your very detailed descriptions and documentation.

You have my votes, and I hope you win something the contest. Thank you so much! It means a lot to me that you are thinking of teaching this project to new students- it is some of the most meaningful praise I can get. Getting this comment from you made my day.

I'm really glad that you enjoyed my project and I would really like to hear about it if you end up using this in a class. Introduction: Functional and Sturdy Wooden Toolbox. By blue-ice Contemporary Maker Blog Follow. More by the author:. About: I'm a maker who loves to try new things and experiment. Building my own 3D printer has been a great project, and it allows me to stretch my own horizons- looking forward to more projects in the future! More About blue-ice ». After the glue has set, you are almost finished with the bottom of the box!

Now, simply drill out the holes and put in the screws. Repeat this process for the other side. The tray can be removed and left at home in order to carry more tools in the main toolbox area. The tray rails don't really get in the way when you do this. The hasps don't need to be flipped up all of the way when you take off the lid. If you just lightly pull up on them, and then lift the lid, it is a lot easier to open. Don't drag the toolbox around on a floor that will get marked.

Setting it down on one of these floors is okay, but the metal corners will make marks on the floor if the toolbox is dragged the corners are for protecting the toolbox, not the floor. Even when the toolbox is empty, the lid can be opened completely and the toolbox will not tip over. Did you make this project? Share it with us! I Made It! Incredible Wooden Spirals by rschoenm in Woodworking. Telescope Setting Circles by instgct in Science. Assemble the side pieces using a butt joint.

Join the sides together at a right angle using glue between the joints for durability. At this point, it should look like a square with no base or lid attached yet. Next, hammer or drill in finishing nails, wood screws or dowels. Use a wooden dowel to pin the pieces together in an "L" shape. After the sides are pinned, cut the dowel flush with the sides. Attach the sides to the base.

Make sure the sides sit evenly on the base or are snug around the base, depending on your design. Use glue to attach the base and sides. Hammer or drill in finishing nails, wood screws, or dowels.

Allow your box to dry thoroughly before sealing or using it. Attach a hinged lid to the box. Set the lid on the box so the lid and side are flush, then measure and mark where you'd like your hinges to be. Keep the hinge knuckle facing out from the back of your box and drill or hammer to attach it to the side and then the lid. When laying out the hinges, it is important that you square them to the top and to the sides of the case.

Otherwise, the door will not close or open correctly. It's helpful to clamp the side and lid together when measuring and installing the hinges. Fill any nail holes. Use a wood putty and putty knife to fill nail holes. Let the putty dry completely before sanding the areas smooth. Filling and sanding nail holes will add a professional look to your project. Feel free to omit this step if you're not concerned with decorative aspects.

Method 2 of Keep in mind you'll need to take grooves into account and the fact that your lid will need to be narrower in order to slide into them. Cut grooves into the side boards. Use a table saw or router with a guide to cut a straight horizontal groove near what will be the top and inside of the box. Make sure to cut equal grooves into three sides of your box. Cut the front side of your box.

First, take one of the sides that you've already cut a groove into and measure from the top, where the lid will be, to the bottom of the groove you cut. Use the same distance to cut a straight horizontal line across the top of your box front. After this point, you should be able to test sliding the lid into the grooves and over the front if you clamp the sides together. Make sure the grooves are facing inward.

Secure the sides to the base. Cut the groove for the lid. If you want your lid to be flush with the sides of the box, use a saw to cut a groove along all the sides of the lid but the front. Slide the lid into the groves and over the top of the box.

For example, when using plywood, mark out the width of the wood before you attach the other side, and mark where you should put your nails, and how many depending on size. Not Helpful 0 Helpful 6. Yes, but it will take more work with the hand saw. Also, precision cut will be very difficult. Not Helpful 3 Helpful It depends on how big you want it. The measurements I used were 9" x 8". Not Helpful 0 Helpful 5. Use the same method, but make it larger and used a hinged top. Not Helpful 2 Helpful 4.

Hard plywood will last much longer and hold its shape and remain stable better than softwood. Hardwood looks cleaner than softwood but it just depends on the purpose of the box. Not Helpful 0 Helpful 0. Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered. By using this service, some information may be shared with YouTube. Submit a Tip All tip submissions are carefully reviewed before being published.

Related wikiHows How to. How to. More References 1. Videos provided by WoodWorkWeb. Co-authors: Updated: February 15, Categories: Making Wooden Boxes.

Article Summary X Before making a wooden box, choose some wood and gather your tools, including a hammer, nails, wood glue, and a saw. In other languages Italiano: Realizzare una Scatola di Legno.

Deutsch: Eine Holzkiste bauen. Bahasa Indonesia: Membuat Kotak Kayu. Nederlands: Een houten kistje maken. Thanks to all authors for creating a page that has been read , times. Thanks, this really gave me confidence to try.

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