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make-a-picture-frame-with-kreg-jig-file Shaper with maggi feeder Delta - Seller: Armando Ventura. My make a picture frame with kreg jig file was to castor the bookshelf and nig holes in top and bottom shelves. Just wishing I had 1, the time and 2, the shop you do to even make a bookcase well alone a hidden door bookcase. Have you ever built anything like this. My pivot hinge points are pretty much where yours are and the face of the bookshelf is flush with the face of plasterboard BUT…. Maybe—and more correctly—you are suggesting that you try to kdeg your mathematical aptitude to determine angle measurements.

If anybody becomes too sophisticated for the basics their work probably sux. Iam still missing something in this article. Half of 86 is 43 but how does 43 become 47 on the miter saw.

Consider this explanation: The outside most or lower if you prefer scale shown on most miter saws starts at 0 degrees in the center. At 0 degrees, the angle you leave on the board cut is 90 degrees, as we all know.

All cuts on a straight board leave 2 angles as measured with a protractor. Those 2 angles always add up to 90 degrees, so the angles are always the reciprocal of one another. That lower or outer scale always describes the angle the saw head swings through, which is NOT the angle left on the board if you were to measure it with a protractor, that scale is the reciprocal of the angle left on the board.

As Jesper pointed out, the scale on the older miter hand saw box starts at 90 degrees in the center and decreases to either side. I zoomed in so you could see the actual numbers. The lower scale starts at 0 and increases angle wise from there both sides. Reciprocal numbers. My Swedish carpenter grandfather used to tell me that Loki the Norse God of tricks invented the zero centered scale to confuse every one.

I do floor installation and have done plenty of trim with the installation. However, I have never quite been trained. Dog wagging his tail back to the saw..

That being said, I want to be more professional and assertive with all of these procedures and this article has been helpful. Live for these comments as well! Honestly I was stuck on the degree angle.

That was my google search that lead me here.. I originally assumed it was Ended up coping that section of baseboard instead. But it had my mind playing tricks uffda Loki.. I am a hands on visual learner and all of my research online left me annoyed and upset..

Carpentry here we come! Now I realize why all of my non degree cuts never seemed to work right! I would just trial-and-error it. Thank you for the article and the great website! I read this Make A Picture Frame With Kreg Jig Index article that explains the protractor scale vs the miter saw scale.

I understand it, but must ask…. So instead, in order to make sense and help yourself in the future, stop identifying angles by the gauge on your miter saw. That gauge is off by 90 degrees. I would like to offer a technical word about the word reciprocal and a bit more.

With degrees of size theta any amount of rotation of the two rays about a common point the reciprocal of sine theta is cosecant theta, the reciprocal of cos theta is secant theta and the reciprocal of tangent theta is cotangent theta and so on. A complementary angle is one of a pair of angles whose total sum is 90 degrees. So the complementary angle of 47 degrees is 43 degrees. Two angles whose measures add up to degrees are called supplementary angles. Leonard, Lots of carpenters have trouble understanding angles—primarily because of the miter gauges on miter saws.

I guess you wrote that paragraph for yourself and not to help other readers? Nice job! While his explanation IS highly technical it serves to set up the proper term complemetary explanation of the second paragraph. I am no math major but the term reciprocal was confusing to me. The terms complemetary and supplementary cleared it up. Thanks Lenoard!

Excellent tutorial! My Father apprenticed with a Danish cabinet maker: very precise, also. I like to bisect angles with a bevel square and compass, and, if the angle is obtuse; then, I subtract from 90 degrees by marking the bisected angle on the back side of a scrap of flat stock, flipping it over, and finding the angle by swinging the saw blade to the line, right? Man, carpentry is fun! Thank You for the good article. Carpentry is a long and honorable craft, and we learn from observing, and from doing.

Would you please help to find the right angle to fit this? I want to run wainscot across a wall. Then run vertical pieces down to fit into the top piece. Can you help as to the right angle? Thank you, Tom. My angles are not working out using 45 degrees on my mitre saw. What am I doing wrong? By looking at the written marks he has in his miter saw. I am having major problems getting an obtuse angle of degrees for base trim in my bathroom. I cut the angle and its way off. Jesper, I am not a tradesman.

I am however, a serious do it yourselfer with a fair amount of experience. My unique situation is that we live in a geodesic dome. Imagine how hard it is to find a 90 degree angle in here! This is an older dome so there has been some settling. The rule in here is that there is no such thing as plumb or square. After MANY little cuts, back and forth to the saw trying to fit each individual corner, I happened upon this article.

Now, armed with my chop saw, my trusty T-bevel and your generous advice, this job has gone from tedious to kind of fun. There is a place in this world for those of us who are not experienced finish carpenters but desire to learn the skills needed to do good work. Little gems like this are invaluable. Thank You from all of us. For some, this article may be tedious.

For others, it is a revelation! I am very much the latter. Sigh of relief. Each time I did a new job I had to try and figure out how these mitres work.

Thanks man. Too tall for fence so have to lay flat and use bevel. Even though the platform was fully secured to the wall, we figured why not! So with the bottom platform fixed, we finally turned back to cutting that plywood for the upper bunk to size and attaching it. It was also a chance to put my money where my mouth was or my body where my build was? Later when Sherry was up there with me building the railing, we felt pretty great that our combined weight nearly pounds!

On our next trip to Cape Charles we brought the wood for the trim and the railings, which is when these started to look more like built-in bunks. We were working off of these bunk beds from Studio McGee as our inspiration for the railing. We liked how clean-lined they were and the mix of wood and white was nice too. We thought the X-pattern along the top rail might be a little busy in such a small room and harder to accomplish , but everything else gave us a good starting point.

Here it is laid out on the hallway floor. I also used another scrap piece of wood that I rested on top and pressed down to keep everything flush as I drove in the screw. Again — clamps are the trusty sidekick of this project. So we cut longer pieces and attached them on the front of each rung screwing them in from the backside to make each platform deeper and much more comfortable.

We also sanded all the corners of the wood so they are more like a rounded square edge as opposed to a super sleek sharp one. We secured the top rails from the topside with more RSS screws. Pictured below is the tiny top rail on the wall side of the ladder. Worked out really well. But when viewed at angles like the one below, only 2 are visible, so it looks more random than it does from the other corner of the room. This angle shows more of how the ladder has those brass screws running down the side, so they look pretty neat when you see them all lined up en masse like that.

Not to jump ahead, but we thought the brass screw heads looked even cooler once everything was stained. You can use a larger spacer item if you would like the slats spaced out a little farther. The table will go together pretty fast.

The final pieces are the top slats. I have made some of these tables with no top spacing and others with the pencil spacers.

Either way it is up to you. This is the most important step. You have to take a deep breath and pat yourself on the back. A job well done. Here are a few pics of some completed chairs and a step by step video series to guide you through the build! Jay, I am going to give this project a try also. The cut list works, just not the sketchup. My Wife just had a new patio poured and these will look great on it.

I am going with cedar. It should work out just right. Thanks Jay. We would love to make these for our lake house. Hello Jennifer. At the moment I do not. I have been wanting to make the same setup as you describe for my porch this summer but have not drawn any plans yet. Yes, you can widen the chairs. So, use any width you want! Just adjust for the appropriate slat size. Jay, very nice bench and chairs.

I really like your design. What finish did you use on them? Keep up the good work. I have built them with treated lumber as well. Jay, great projects. Quite talented. Now, let me try to emulate. Retired from the military, so lots of time to work on projects. Thanks for sharing your expertise and plans. Thanks for the kind words. Hope you have fun making yours. Send me some pics when they are done! Good luck! You only used pocket screws on the arms rests, could they be used for the seat and back slats as well?

Yes they can. I use them on my benches that has the same frame. Check out this video and combine the two projects.

I made this tutorial before I used pocket holes on the frame. Now I can really get to work. I have already built a few benches, one at 5ft for myself and some tables from the same design as the bench.

Now that I have my pocket hole tools, I can make some chairs.. Your info is very valuable.. Thank you Marshall. Hi i just found out your youtube channel and internet site. I really like your video and designs. In particular I like that you use very few tools to complete most of the projects. Kepp up the good work. One question : From what I see in the video you use no glue and no mortise tenon joints but you use only screws.

Are the chairs strong enough? Do the chair cope with heavy persons and people that they tend to lean back the chair in the two back legs all the time? I finally did build the armchair, and it is super strong!!! I just think that seat is a little to short. I want to make sure it is the square angle pieces the would be widened. Yes, that is correct. Jay, thank you for sharing this project and all your others!

My mother loves the chairs and table. Just looking through your projects is giving me a lot of inspiration. Thank you! Then made a bench with arm rests like the chairs but longer for my sister in laws birthday a few months early butvshe loves it.

Thank you jay for the easy yet sturdy and economical designs. Whenever I need a project I check out your stuff first. I wish everything was as clearly explained and laid out as your directions!

Awesome woodwork Jay, would like to know if there is a way to download the instructions to your projects. Or email me.

Used Furniture Hardware Drawer Pulls Unity Clamps For Dewalt Miter Saw Cu