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The first step is to stabilize the wood on a solid surface. A workbench is preferred , but any flat table that you are able to use clamps with will work. A woodworking vise is the preferred option to clamping the piece from the sides so that the entire top surface is free to plane.
An important part of using a jointer plane is the motion used to run the tool over the wood board you are flattening. Two hands are used with the tool, so the natural thought is that you can simply move the tool back and forth or side to side.
This could work, but will not be very efficient. Be sure to note the direction of the grain, and plan to plane as much as possible along that same line.
Grip the back handle with your rear hand, making sure that your index finger does not try to find a place to rest on the iron or chip breaker. Pressing against these can knock the lateral adjustment out of whack. Make sure your forearm is in a straight line behind the jointer plane following the direction of the sole. With the front hand, hold onto the tote, or front handle, with a comfortable strong grip.
Lean forward, putting the strength and stability of your body behind it. Push from the back hand while pressing down with the front hand, keeping the sole as flat on the surface as possible. Forward strokes should be straight, while bringing the jointing plane back to its original position is often easier to do in a half-arc. On a wide, long surface, you can perform this action in a rapid, but smooth, motion.
For narrow edges and ends of planks, use a slow, steady motion. There is even the possibility that what I'm trying to do is not a task for either one of these tools Suggest a small lunch box planer and smaller jointer.
You'll still be over your budget tho even with the small Grizzly stuff. The planer will allow you to clean up surfaces. If it's pallet wood and things don't have to be perfect you could use a power planer if S4S isn't a requirement. If you need it to be a certain thickness throughout and all sides parallel, a jointer and a planer are your quickest, most repeatable options. If you just need to clean up faces and parallel faces aren't a huge deal a jointer would be what I'd get.
I have read those review prior and was thinking of getting the same Jet combo model, personally i don't think try to keep that thing true would be worth the hassle. I would go the route of buying a workbench joiner you can get a inexpensive 6in porter cable from lowes I am not certain given your location that would be an option but its a valid idea considering your funds.
Here is the issue, those are not always flat so you need to get straight edge and check the tables. Used might be better for you depending.
Then with that left over money you can then purchase your lunchbox planer, maybe pick up a used one. Point being is that getting quality combo machine is going to blow your budget, so separate and used might be your best way to go.
Thank you all for your opinions. I greatly appreciate it and I will take it all into consideration. I think getting a possibly used jointer first might indeed be the best idea. Getting something from the local eBay variant will be an option, I think. I did see a jointer once at Sears yes, we do have that here , but I haven't seen it recently.
Although I'm not a big Craftsman fan My table saw works great though So much to consider I had ear muffs on and the shop-vac was running so I wasn't sure of it, but it seemed like something was wrong.
After an inspection I started up again and by the third pass smoke started coming out of the cowling and it was clear something drastic was up. A quick dis-assembly showed that the pulley on the cutter head had loosened and crept off of the shaft. Clearly it was not properly tightened at the factory, and the result of such a thing is to cause a large amount of "tweaking" and stress on the belts, pulleys, and anything else that is in the way.
I got on the phone with customer service at Jet and in the middle of my explanation the guy from technical service stopped me and said "Return it, that's not something that should happen.
The return was smooth and they didn't want the machine back they registered the serial number as "machine destroyed". I don't see any way to make adjustments on the beds of the machine, and although it "works" it does not have the accuracy that I would like. My main complaints aside from the lack of adjustment are that it is very cheaply made and even if it was "dead on" the beds are too short for jointing anything over " long.
That said Maybe this will change your mind. Similar to Marc's method, but using wedges, should be faster. A thickness planer used this way will take care of both jobs, cheaper than the combo machine.
Maybe I'm just a complete newbie, but how would you then go about getting at least one straight edge? For further support of the fence, I added a few metal brackets to it. After this, it was time for a test run. In the beginning, it went great, no problems going through the wood and the result was looking pretty good.
However, with the second piece of wood I attempted, a weird smell came from the machine and a corresponding sound of giving up. The machine died on me. So I had to stop the build here, unfortunately. However, the test run went fine so the concept of this build works! That is why I decided to finish the video and write this article.
Hopefully, it will be helpful to somebody. Instagram 1 2. Hope this post has inspired you to make something! I love to make things, inspire people and help others. The Cornerfield Shop combines everything I love in one place.
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