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finding-wood-for-turning-work While it comes in several shades, such as natural, walnut, cherry, and golden oak, I find that natural is the obvious choice for all woods. However, this does not impact our recommendations. Woodturning tools should be sharpened on a bench grinder, or better yet, a slow speed wet sharpener. Other ingredients include woox distillates, shellac, and waxes, making turnung finish highly flammable. Walnut finding wood for turning work a pronounced end grain, which may cause tears at the bottom of a bowl. Be prepared to clean up after yourself. Dust Collection.

I prefer spraying over brushing. It dries fast and lets you reapply it in 30 minutes, with no sanding in between. I like gloss lacquer over satin for building depth and because it contains fewer solids. Plus, you can repair it with a wax remover, light sanding, and another coat.

Best Uses: Consider lacquer for small and large decorative turnings—vessels and other showy pieces. Downside: Lacquer is flammable, and its fumes can be a problem. Spray only in well-ventilated areas and away from heat sources.

Application: Sand small hollow forms and similar decorative turnings through grit sandpaper before applying as many as five coats of gloss lacquer. Rotate the turning for an even coat all around. Once dry, use steel wool with clear Briwax to level the surface Photo B. Buffing with a buffing wheel and carnauba wax will bring out the shine. For a satin finish, skip the steel wool and wax and apply a final coat of satin lacquer finish.

Watco Penetrating Danish Oil, Natural, is a blend of boiled linseed oil and varnish that penetrates, seals, and adds a low luster.

While it comes in several shades, such as natural, walnut, cherry, and golden oak, I find that natural is the obvious choice for all woods. It applies easily, though it takes time to achieve the desired result. The final finish is relatively soft, somewhat durable, and repairs quickly. And while it dries slowly, it produces a warm amber tone.

Best Uses: Watco Penetrating Danish Oil works well for general turnings and furniture such as the stool legs and seat shown below. Downside: Watco Penetrating Danish Oil dries slowly, typically taking several hours. In fact, I like to wait 24 hours before reapplication. Take care to properly dispose of your oily paper towels to avoid a spontaneous combustion fire.

The product results in a satin sheen only. Application: With the lathe off, wipe on a full wet coat of oil using a paper towel Photo A , and allow it to penetrate into the wood for 15 to 20 minutes. Then wipe off the excess and burnish it into the wood with a dry paper towel. This is not the same as burnishing raw wood with sandpaper. Allow the coat to dry 24 hours or more, and then reapply to build three to five coats over the course of several days or weeks. When the piece is completely cured again, 24 hours after the final coat , apply a coat of wax using steel wool Photo B.

Finally, buff the wood surfaces to achieve a pleasing satin sheen. One popular category used to finish the pepper and salt mills on page 38 includes friction finishes such as Hut Crystal Coat and Mylands High Build Friction Polish. When correctly applied, the end result is a glowing high-gloss, one-coat finish executed in record time. Downside: Because of its alcohol base, oils from your hands can degrade a friction finish over time.

Other ingredients include petroleum distillates, shellac, and waxes, making the finish highly flammable. Its fumes can irritate. To be safe, ventilate the work area, and stay away from any heat source. Application: Sand surfaces to grit or higher. Then, shake the bottle and add a few drops to a paper towel.

With the lathe turned off, wipe the friction finish on the turning. Then, with the turned lathe on, hold a paper towel to the turning with moderate pressure. I found a 16 oz. It is colorless, odorless, tasteless, and totally inert. It goes on easily, can be applied on or off the lathe, and is easy to repair. Add beeswax to it to add more protection and sheen, but not on art objects.

It collects dust. Reapply as needed. Best Finding Wood For Turning Zip Uses: I use the mineral oil and wax combo for honey dippers, spurtles stirring sticks , salad bowls, baby rattles, and other utility items. Downside: This finish offers only low water resistance. It needs regular recoats and can collect dust. Expect a low luster only. Application: Apply mineral oil with the lathe running at a low speed Photo A. A plastic pump bottle like the ones used for liquid soap makes a great dispenser for your oil.

Use paper towels to make a pad, and pump a squirt or two of oil on it. Blot the oil to avoid a puddle on the pad as the spinning object will sling the liquid onto you and everything in the shop. As you apply the oil, burnish it into the spinning wood.

The addition of beeswax over the mineral oil adds Unusual Wood For Turning Works luster and a little more protection. Then take a block of beeswax and apply it directly Photo B. Use a dry paper towel to buff the surface to a soft, fragrant finish. Nick Cook is a full-time professional turner whose home and commercial shop are located in Marietta, Georgia. In addition to turning anything from bottle stoppers to porch posts and everything in between, he is one of the founders of the American Association of Woodturners AAW.

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Search Go. Topics Cabinetry. Choosing Hardware. Dust Collection. A good rule of thumb is, "the wider the stock, the lower the speed. One key to safe woodturning is to keep your hands in safe positions that will control the tool, but keep the fingers clear of the action.

For right-handed woodturners, the left hand will be against the tool rest and the right hand will be holding the handle of the tool. Position the left hand so that the forefinger will be under the tool, resting against the side of the tool rest opposite the wood.

The left hand's thumb will be on the top of the tool, helping to steady it against the forefinger and the tool rest. See the image above for an example.

Left-handed woodturners will likely want to reverse the hands. When turning, the gouge, chisel or scraper being used should always remain in contact with the tool rest. There is no such thing as safe "free-handing" on a lathe. Ideally, the tool rest should be about a quarter-inch away from the wood, and the cutting tool needs to be in contact with the tool rest before it comes into contact with the wood.

Additionally, there should be a limited distance between the point where the tool comes into contact with the tool rest and where it contacts the wood. The greater the distance between the two points of contact, the less support that is provided to the tool.

One key to safe woodturning is to remember to always keep the bevel behind the sharpened edge of the tool resting on the wood. Following this rule will help keep the tool from taking too much off at one time, or worse, grabbing the wood and perhaps ripping the tool out of the woodturner's hands.

When beginning to cut with a tool such as a gouge, while keeping the tool on the tool rest, lay the back edge of the tool onto the spinning wood so that the point of contact is on or behind the bevel, but that the tool's cutting edge is not yet cutting. Once contact is safely made, use your right hand to slide the tool backward toward the body, away from the lathe until the cutting edge begins to engage the wood.

Throughout the entire cutting process, the bevel should remain in contact with the wood. When woodturning, one should always work "with the grain. For instance, when hollowing out a cove, cut from the edges toward the center.

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