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drawer-lock-router-bit-lowes-website Otherwise, read on. I had a few mistakes where the piece tilted a bit as I pushed through the cut, and I had to re-do those pieces. Lost your password? For the Baltic birch plywood I see you use, does the shortness of the joint drawer lock router bit lowes website a problem with the layers shearing off? The two drawer pieces lock together securely, and the joint is closed and flush. Webste obtain consistent results, always measure with the same ruler.

Well, in all honesty the getting the setup just right can be fussy. For a drawer lock joint to fit correctly, the height of the bit AND the fence position must both be perfect. Bit height is especially critical.

Start by using the techniques we provide for getting it close. When making drawers one of the cuts will be across the face grain. This can lead to a lot of tear out and chipping on the face. Drawer locks can also be created on the table saw using a dado head. This is another great way to create lock joints. You should also check out our content on different types of joinery.

For more information on Kreg products visit www. Click here to cancel reply. Hi Curtis. I believe that you can use it on any thickness by making the proper adjustments to your router table fence, but Whiteside suggests other bits in their product line for thicker stock.

I think it would be really hard for me to cut into the fence for zero clearance. I paid a lot of money for my Jessem fence. This would mean my fence would be cut for a specific thickness of stock. You can always take the stock fence off and replace it, temporarily, with an MDF or melamine shop-made face.

This was very useful. Thank you! Hi Dennis. The step where you cut into the fence is to create zero clearance around it. You can use a sacrificial fence for this. A backer board can be used behind the piece as you push it through the cut, which will reduce the chance for blow-out on the trailing edge of the cut.

I would 1st start with a sacrificial fence mounted and then make my adjustments. I would never purposely cut into my Kreg fence! That really surprised me! While your on the subject demonstrate the lock miter bit which is even more fidgety to dial in, accordingly highly recommend using a router lift with a bit height locking feature.

Hi Christopher. It is mounted on a shop-made cabinet that George built. I was using my Leigh RTJ They did not recommend using plywood. He used a zero clearance fence to avoid chipping. Is there something equivalent I could do when cutting my dovetails.

Dovetails can look so nice when using baltic birch when it works. Hi Bill. The pin and socket board should, then, be backing up the face of the tail board to help reduce chipping there. The folks at Leigh are very sharp. It would be worth a call to them to see if they have additional suggestions. In other words changing the fence position moves the groove to position the side correctly, but it also changes how it cuts the tongue, so it compounds the adjustment.

Also, changing the bit height not only adjusts the tongue thickness, but it changes where the groove lands on the front, effectively shortening or lengthening the entire drawer box. All that said this is a great video! For the Baltic birch plywood I see you use, does the shortness of the joint cause a problem with the layers shearing off? I have experienced That little nub is susceptible to breaking off and hence the joint does not hold… any suggestions on how to either reinforce or keep from shearing off?

As part of that I needed to make several drawers. There are many ways to make a drawer. I'm not about to say one way is better than another.

For this project, I chose to make my drawers using a small drawer lock bit. As part of that, I decided to document the process and present it here. I'm using a small drawer lock bit from Lee Valley Tools. I've looked around online and there are several similar kinds of drawer lock bits available from different vendors.

The cool thing about this method is that all of the drawer joint cutting operations are accomplished with ONE router table setup. There are instructions on the Lee Valley website. First, the router bit is set to the depth of one quarter inch, which is half the thickness of your stock. Next, you set the fence so that the middle of the angled part of the bit falls at the middle of your stock.

This is of course a tricky setting, so you will definitely need to have some scrap wood available for making test cuts. In these photos I am making a test cuts on scrap wood, which is an identical thickness to my drawer pieces.

The two cut pieces then fit together like this final photo locking together. This is my fourth test piece. So I had to adjust the fence four times to get a nice flush fitting joint. Considering how rudimentary my fence is, I think that is pretty good. If you try this, just remember to have several pieces of scrap available for test cuts -- or just one long scrap piece, which you just keep cutting down shorter. With the router table properly set up, I proceeded with batch cutting all of the drawer pieces.

In order to keep things from getting messed up, I first lay out and cut all the drawer fronts and backs You need to be careful with the sides, to hold them perfectly perpendicular with the end flat on the table as you cut them.

I had a few mistakes where the piece tilted a bit as I pushed through the cut, and I had to re-do those pieces. I then moved on and cut rabbets along the bottom of the drawers, to h hold the bottoms.

I cut the back of the drawer shorter, so that the bottom can slide in and out. I also cut out the bottoms. None of that was filmed, as the focus of this article was just on the joinery. With the drawer pieces ready, it is now just a matter of adding glue to the ends and then alinging and clamping the pieces. I slid in the plywood bottoms immediately, as they help with ensuring that the drawer box is square.

Here is one shot showing a nice tight drawer corner joint. The two drawer pieces lock together securely, and the joint is closed and flush.

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