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drawer-joint-router-bit-user Most people think you can only use a panel saw to crosscut sheet stock. It would be worth a call to them to see if they have additional suggestions. While your on the subject demonstrate the lock miter bit Drawer Joint Router Bit 2020 which is even more fidgety to drawer joint router bit user in, accordingly highly recommend using a router lift with a bit height locking feature. A backer board can be used behind the piece as you push it through the cut, which will reduce the chance for blow-out on the trailing edge of the cut. Also, Drawer Lock Joint Router Bits changing the bit height not only adjusts the tongue thickness, royter it changes uswr the groove lands on the front, effectively shortening or lengthening the entire drawer joint router bit user box.

I would 1st start with a sacrificial fence mounted and then make my adjustments. I would never purposely cut into my Kreg fence! That really surprised me! While your on the subject demonstrate the lock miter bit which is even more fidgety to dial in, accordingly highly recommend using a router lift with a bit height locking feature. Hi Christopher. It is mounted on a shop-made cabinet that George built. I was using my Leigh RTJ They did not recommend using plywood.

He used a zero clearance fence to avoid chipping. Is there something equivalent I could do when cutting my dovetails. Dovetails can look so nice when using baltic birch when it works. Hi Bill. The pin and socket board should, then, be backing up the face of the tail board to help reduce chipping there. The folks at Leigh are very sharp. It would be worth a call to them to see Drawer Lock Joint Router Bit if they have additional suggestions. In other words changing the fence position moves the groove to position the side correctly, but it also changes how it cuts the tongue, so it compounds the adjustment.

Also, changing the bit height not only adjusts the tongue thickness, but it changes where the groove lands on the front, effectively shortening or lengthening the entire drawer box.

All that said this is a great video! For the Baltic birch plywood I see you use, does the shortness of the joint cause a problem with the layers shearing off? I have experienced That little nub is susceptible to breaking off and hence the joint does not hold… any suggestions on how to either reinforce or keep from shearing off?

Hello Gene. I regularly test the strength of this joint by flipping the drawer over and standing on the bottom of the drawer. Even with that kind of stress, this joint stands up every time. Paul Woodworkers Guild of America. I avoid changing the fence position and the bit height at the same times. I record the bit heights and fence positions for these drawer lock cuts as well as other common cuts in a log book.

It is based on the thickness of the front and sides. I measure from the fence to the miter gauge slot in metric. For these types of cuts, I use a designated, one-piece, sacrificial fence that I C-clamp to my regular fence.

That prevents the tendency for the sides to rotate into the bit where the regular fence sides separate when routing a work piece vertically instead of flat on the router table. You can easily re-use that mdf for the drawer lock bit next time. Exact fit over the bit next time is not required. You just want to have the area of the fence above the bit closed. I do not recommend chewing up your regular fence to do this.

Yes, you can make new ones, but that requires a T-slot bit, 2 perfectly identical pieces for the sides and good bit alignment. The sacrificial fence works well whenever you need to route a piece vertically. That and other useful templates should be saved and available. For the non-professional, like me, it is very useful to keep a log book of your projects. That way, should you decide to repeat them, you will be able to see how you build it the last time and you will also be less likely to repeat the same mistakes.

To obtain consistent results, always measure with the same ruler. Next time you need to make the cuts again in same-sized material you can re-set the bit and fence until it fits perfectly into your saved reference cut.

Most people think you can only use a panel saw to crosscut sheet stock. Today in the workshop, though, George Vondriska demonstrates some of the handy woodworking techniques you can employ with a combination panel saw and router machine. Furthermore, once you've set the bit to the correct height, you need only adjust your router-table fence to make a variety of mating cuts.

One safety note before we get into using this bit: Remember that a drawer-lock bit should always be used in a router table, never a handheld router. That's because most of the bit must be captured inside the fence when milling drawer or box sides. Close up the opening around the bit by making an auxiliary face for your router table fence. Position your router table fence that distance back from the upper cutting edge of the bit.

For flush-mount drawers, or drawers to which you'll add a false front, place the fence only the thickness of the drawer side from the bit's lower cutting edge. You also could use this dimension for milling the drawer backs. This ensures that the inside dimensions of the drawer remain constant. Keep one end of the drawer front against the router table fence and mill the workpiece using the miter gauge as a guide. Turn the workpiece around, keeping it face-up, and mill the other end.

If you're making more than one drawer, machine all of the drawer fronts and backs, if you like using this setup. We like to rotate the bit so the cutting edge is forward, then lay a straightedge against it for reference, as shown below.

Stand the drawer side on end, placing the inside face against the fence. Use the pushblock, as shown below , to guide the drawer side through the bit. After marking and installing biscuit joints in several boards that I've glued up edge-to-edge, I Skip to main content.

Drawer-Lock Bit. The one-bit solution to strong interlocking joints.

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