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build-a-toy-tractor-design Repeat to deaign the build a toy tractor design. I'll point out on a few occasions what hole dimensions you'll have to adjust to accommodate different screw sizes. To get the same length for multiple pieces, mark the length of the first piece you are cutting from the edge, then cut it. Clamp down the wood and cut out the shape using the jigsaw. Carefully align them, then clamp all three parts together with a couple of clamps. Clamp the wood into your vice so that you can drill the Set the drill press gauge to avoid drilling through the wood.

Repeat with second 'Trailer Railing' part. On both of the two flat sides, mark the middle of the dowel with a pen. Depending on your drills, use the center punch to indent the drill location. Clamp the dowel into a vice with the marked flat side up.

Make sure it is exactly vertical using the level. Clamp an 8mm [0. Make sure your drill is aligned and centered with the dowel. Drill a 10mm [0.

Take the dowel out of the vice and turn the other flat side to the top. Use the level to put the dowel into an exactly vertical position.

Exchange the 8mm [0. Center and align your dowel and drill. Measure the width of the blade of your hand saw. Add this width to 36mm [1. For example if the blade of your hand saw is 2mm [0. Sand all parts carefully.

They can, of course, be cut out of board material as well. For the "Tractor Front Axis" my dimensions were 20mm [0. This can easily be substituted by a 1x1 bought at Home Depot or Lowes which according to this source is 19mm [0. For the "Trailer Axis" my dimensions were 32mm [1.

You could also use a 1x1 for this part. However, ensure that the length specifically of the "Trailer Axis" is at least 3mm [0.

Mark the length of your pieces. Clamp your wood down onto a solid surface and cut it carefully with your Jigsaw. Carefully deburr all edges with sandpaper. Drilling: Mark the centre of the smallest sides of the "Trailer Axis" to prepare for drilling a pilot hole for the screws.

As before, depending on the drill you have available, use the hole punch to indent the location. For 5mm diameter hex lag screws use a 3.

Using wood or aluminium brackets as protection, clamp the part vertically in your vice, using your level to align it. Align and centre your drill above the part.

Although the drawing shows a specific depth, which fits to the screws I used, you can drill this hole as deep as you like. You can even make it a through hole. This hole will prevent the wood from splitting when a screw is inserted.

If your drill is too short for a through hole, repeat the procedure on the other side of the part. Repeat with "Tractor Front Axis". Additionally mark the centre on one of the longer sides. Again use a centre punch if necessary to prepare for drilling. Set your depth gauge to drill 10mm [0. Check Your Hole Saw Take a look at your hole saw and measure the diameter of the center drill. Record this number somewhere. The diameter of this drill may force you to change several hole dimensions and potentially even the screw.

In my case it was approximately 6mm as indicated by the play of the wheel on How To Build A Toy Doll House Design the shaft of the 5mm screws that I used. You'd like your screw diameter ideally to be 0. The resulting play will allow for well turning wheels without the need to perform perfectly straight holes.

Place an old but flat piece of wood on your drill press table. Lay the 20mm [0. Drill through the first layer of wood. Carefully remove the wood disk from the hole saw and sand it until all sharp edges are removed.

Repeat to make the second wheel. Grab the 38mm [1. Mark the centre of the circle. Clamp the board onto a table so that it hangs over by more than mm [3. Put a thin wood saw bit into your jigsaw and cut around that perfect circle as good as you can. It won't be as perfect any more, at least mine wasn't.

Improve it by sanding it for a while. I did it by hand and it worked just fine. Not perfect, but tractors like to bounce around a little anyway.

Drill a 6mm [0. Adjust the hole diameter to 7mm [0. Repeat to make the second. Clamp down the wood and cut out the shape using the jigsaw. Sand all edges to a round and smooth finish. Mark the locations of the three holes on each piece, first with a pencil, then if needed with the centre punch. If you are using 5mm [0. Drill the single through hole on the large side of each piece. Exchange the drill with a 9mm [0. Set the depth gauge of your drill press to 12mm [0. Drill the holes into the top.

Pick a countersink or a larger drill, put it in your drill press and add a small champfer to the holes in the top. This is the thickness of a 2x4 by the way as shown here. Clamp your wood piece onto your work area. Prior to cutting each line, ensure that the blade of your jig saw won't cut into your work surface. The entire "Tractor Main Body" fits into a rectangle with dimensions mm [9. Cut out the three sides of this rectangle that are orthogonal to each other, i. Next, cut the front line of your tractor.

The angle of this cut is slightly smaller than 90 degrees. Now cut along two round sections for the front wheel part as well as the passenger area. Hold your jig saw steady and move it very slowly along the line. Blow away dust as you are sawing. When you are done, pat yourself on the back, grab some sandpaper and round off all edges and cut surfaces to a smooth finish.

Mark the hole locations for the steering mechanism, the steering wheels, and the hitch. No need to mark the holes for the wheels, they are drilled later during the assembly and not now. Use a centre punch if you are using general purpose drills to make indentations at the drill locations. This includes the location for the steering wheel. Put an 8mm [0. Secure your work piece, bottom down, in your vice.

Ensure it is level and well clamped. With your drill press, drill the large through hole for the hitch that is between the two smaller holes. Measure the core diameter of the screws you like to use for the hitch plate. Select the appropriate drill and put it into your drill press. Set your depth gauge to less than 9mm and drill the two pilot holes for the hitch plate.

Select an 11mm [0. Drill the through hole for the steering mechanism. Change your drill bit back to an 8mm [0. We are now drilling the hole for the "Steering Wheel Shaft", which is maybe the most difficult part of the entire build.

It may be good to practice if my suggestions work for you. It may depend on your vice, drills, drill press and experience.

I appreciate suggestions to make this particular part a little easier. Loosen the vice and turn your work piece until your drill is orthogonal to the wood surface. Beware, this is not the drill hole angle indicated by the drawing, but a much flatter angle. We are doing this to prevent the drill to walk. Drill mm into this direction.

Loosen the vice and change the angle to the one indicated for the "Steering Wheel Shaft". Set your depth gauge to 25mm [0. Drill slowly and ensure that the drill is not walking. Almost done. We are now cutting out the recessed area where the hitch is placed at the end of the tractor body. With the help of a ruler, measure and mark the groove onto the side of the tractor body. Take your jig saw and cut the repeatedly into the part until you get the shape of the groove.

Remove all edges and burrs using sand paper. Clamp down the wood and cut it out using the jigsaw. Depending on the drill you are using mark the four drilling locations with a center punch.

Place the cut out piece on a scrap piece of wood and both onto your drill press table. Set the depth gauge of the press to drill 6mm [0. Drill all four holes. Measure the core diameter of the screws you like to use for the hitch. Mark the locations and indent them with your centre punch.

Select a slightly smaller drill bit diameter than the core diameter of the screws and clamp it into your drill press. Set the drill press gauge to avoid drilling through the wood. Drill the holes for the "Tractor Hitch" into the bottom side of the wood. Use the centre punch to make a deep indentation for the 12 holes on the top side of the wood. Clamp the wood into your vice so that you can drill the The vice is important so that you can maintain a reproducible angle for all theses holes. Drill the first set of six holes.

Take the part out of the vice, turn it around and repeat the procedure. The hitch parts that connect tractor and trailer are the only self made metal parts in the toy. They allow the trailer and tractor to be connected and disconnected. The hitch assembly is kind of nifty because you can't loose any of the parts and because it won't wear out over time.

Other metal parts are the hex lag screws to fasten the wheels, the small screws to fasten the hitch parts, and the washers. Cut a piece off the rod that is i at least 44mm [1. Over a length of 30mm [1. Cut the rod to a length of 44mm [1. Pretty much any little bit thicker metal should work. Cut out a 30mm [1. Mark the three hole locations and indent them with the centre punch.

Clamp the piece on a wood piece and drill small pilot holes of approximately 2mm [0. Switch to a 5mm [0. This hole is wider than the thin part of the "Tractor Hitch Pin" and smaller than the thick part of it. Switch to the drill bit size that fits to your countersink screws. Drill the remaining two holes. Switch to a countersink tool and countersink the two "outside" holes. Deburr all hole parts that were not countersunk. For best results cut a 2mm [0.

Take the "Tractor Hitch Pin" and insert it into the "Tractor Hitch" by sticking the side with the small diameter into the centre hole from the bottom, i.

Clamp the assembly between the two V shaped sections of the metal pieces into your vice so that i the thin part of the "Tractor Hich Pin" is sticking out the top by mm [0. Bend the exposed top part of the "Tractor Hitch" until it is in an angle of approximately degrees as shown in the drawing "Tractor Hitch Pin curved". You can try to put a metal tube over it and bend it using the lever, or you could use an old fashioned hammer and carefully hammer away.

You have bent the piece enough when it cannot slide out of the "Tractor Hitch" without turning it a lot. Given that the length is not mm, I think it probably was a leftover piece.

However, any bar of similar thickness and length will do. If necessary, cut your bar to length with a saw. Deburr all edges. Mark the hole locations shown in the drawing, then use a centre punch to indent them.

Lay the bar on a leftover wood piece and drill small pilot holes of approximately 2mm [0. If you use aluminium you may get away without the pilot holes. Select a drill bit that is approximately 1mm [0. In my case I selected a 6. Drill the single hole and deburr it. Switch the drill bit to a size appropriate for your countersink screws.

Drill the two holes on the other end of the bar. Exchange the drill bit with a countersink tool. This Storey Basics title offers exactly what you need to know to keep your small farm's equipment in good working order. Long-time farmers Steve and Ann Larkin Hansen cover everything from tractors an. First I'd like to thank Brad for inviting me to this new site, I am enjoying it. And looking forward to meeting new friends.

Hi everyone, I'm new here and I've been looking through the site and found a lot of interesting homemade FELs. If you have pictures or are making one Hi guys. I'm finaly on vacation. J'avais des photos d'un engin Italien qui ressemblait.

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