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You may want to consider how far and to what angle you want the door to open. Some hinges let a door open just 90 degrees; others allow it to completely swing back against the cabinet. Other special features: self-closing and soft-close hinges pull the door shut; self-opening hinges pop the door open when activated by a push.
Buy enough hinges to support the door. Most are sold in pairs, as cabinet doors ordinarily have two hinges each. If the door is especially large or heavy, use more. Hinges By Style Consider choosing hinges to match the period of your cabinets. Colonial Forged iron H, HL, and strap hinges were most common, kept simple and finished in flat black. Victorian More elaborate designs with overlay or butterfly-type hinges, typically on flush frame cabinets, were common, with fancier brass or brass-plated finishes the most popular.
Iceboxes often had heftier strap hinges. Colonial Revival Two styles were common: both the traditional ball-tip mortise hinge most popularly in brass , and heavier iron strap hinges for an antique or primitive look, left natural or painted flat black. Nickel and chrome were the most popular finishes emphasizing a sanitary aspect , sometimes with color such as inlaid red striping.
Repurpose salvaged cabinet knobs by turning them into a row of handy hooks. Put some automobile axle grease on it, and push it back in the hinge. For smaller cabinet hinges, give them a shot of penetrating lubricant such as WD If you still need some new hinges, head to your home center store. You will find a huge selection of hinges, especially decorative ones for cabinets. When remodeling a kitchen or bathroom, new decorative hinges can be attractive accents for a reasonable cost.
For your doors, standard loose-pin butt hinges are used most often. The hinges look symmetrical, but there actually is an up end and a down end. Make an inventory list of the door hinges you need, and note whether they are right- or left-handed swinging. It can be a little confusing to determine whether you need right- or left-handed hinges. Facing the door, if the hinges are on the left side and the door opens inward toward you, you need right-handed hinges.
Sometimes, making rough sketch of each door and how it swings in the door frame helps when you are at the store. If you are confused by this, fixed-pin door hinges are also available. They are reversible and can be installed in any direction. The primary drawback to fixed-pin hinges is the hinge must be unscrewed from the door or the frame to remove the door.
When remodeling and adding new flooring or carpeting, doors may rub on the new higher floor surface. One option is to trim off the bottom of the door. Another option is to install rising-butt hinges. The two halves of the hinge are tapered, causing the door to lift a little as it opens so it clears the new flooring.
For very heavy doors, such as a large, solid-wood front door, ball-bearing hinges are a good choice. They operate very smoothly with little friction, so the door glides open and closed easily. Select ones with permanently lubricated bearings. They are more expensive than standard butt hinges.
As time went on, and the styles of cabinet doors changed, hinges became less and less visible, with the most modern offerings in the lot being completely hidden. Butt hinges, like this non-mortised example, gave cainbets a cleaner look, but still offered subtle decoration on knuckles ending in ball or finial tips. Photo: Van Dyke's Restorers. The earliest standardized cabinets were face-frame construction, meaning that the wood edging the front of the cabinet resembles a picture frame, and can be clearly seen.
The earliest inset doors were attached to the cabinet with simple surface hinges—low-tech hinges that are mounted to the front of both cabinet and door. Surface hinges eventually developed more ornamental designs, like the butterfly hinge, featuring two leaves roughly shaped like a butterfly, sometimes sporting cutout designs. Another basic hinge type used with face-frame cabinets is the butt hinge, where leaves attach to the edge of both cabinet and door, so that the knuckles show but the leaves are hidden.
Some of the most popular of these were ball-tipped. Butt hinges afforded cabinets a cleaner look, and they were also quite durable and flexible, allowing for cabinet doors to be taken down when necessary by simply removing the pin. Butt hinges were almost always mortised.
Beginning around or so, cabinets with lipped doors came into fashion. These doors have a rabbet cut all the way around their back edge, which allows them to close into the opening and sit over the frame at the same time. Cabinets with lipped doors could be readily ordered in an array of sizes from millwork catalogs at the turn of the century.
These doors require an offset hinge, one that jogs around the edge of the lip in order for the door to lay flat. Butterfly surface hinges top were meant to be seen, and could have elaborate lines and cutout patterns. Half decorative, half hidden, hinges like the one on bottom were meant to be mortised on the plain, interior-mounting side. Decorative styles exist here as well, with the most common being either a simple, elongated brass oval for the surface mount, or one of a rustic hammered black rectangle with trefoil tips on the top and bottom.
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